Battery Terminal Connections

tawilke46

tawilke46

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Phil, I have my battery tender, voltage monitor, and Fuzeblock connected to the battery terminals. All these connectors effectively shorten the bolt. What I experienced was the terminal bolt would not thread into the nut under the terminal. I cut a small piece of foam and jammed it under the nut to keep it pushed up against the top of the terminal. The bolt threaded right in.
If I add any more connections to the battery terminals, I will have to buy a slightly longer bolt. Which I had to do on the Wee, cause I have four connectors to each battery terminal. IIRC the battery bolt is a M6?. The length I bought was 12mm.
Any way it has to be slightly longer than OEM. I found replacement bolts at Lowes.
 
My answer is an additional fuse block. Can go inexpensive (auto parts store) or more expensive with a Eastern Beaver unit. I have done both on my bikes. This way only one additional connection on the battery termanal. Helps keep the extra wires and external fuses in order and managable.

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Good solution Chuck......this idea had crossed my mind as I was making all these connections and the individual fuses to the battery. That there had to be a more simple way of doing this.
 
We're thinking a junction block for all the things I've got connected to the battery. I've got a longer bolt and we got it running last night. But apparently we got my wires confused. I don't have power to the Denalis or to the switch for them, and the control pad for the cruise control stays lit when the bike's turned off. We'll get that stuff sorted on Sunday.
 
tawilke46 said:
IIRC the battery bolt is a M6?. The length I bought was 12mm.
Any way it has to be slightly longer than OEM. I found replacement bolts at Lowes.
Click to expand...

IIRC its M6-1.25, but I won't swear to it. So take the bolt with you and check it with a nut.

I dropped the little square nut down in to the black hole on my bike never to be seen again. Could not find a similar nut anywhere, and did not want to drive all the way to the Honda shop and pay to much for one. So I ended up buying a regular metric hex nut and grinding two of the points flat till it slid in. At this point I masking taped the side openings closed so I didn't drop another one.

Isn't it amazing how a 10 minute job can turn into a trip to the hardware store and an hour and a half. All because I dropped one little rectangular nut. But in the big picture, if that is the worst thing that happens this month then life is real good! LOL :c)
 
[...I have four connectors to each battery terminal...]

Having too many connectors at each terminal is a good way for the battery bolts to come loose. Compared to the original battery cable ends, the connectors for small wires are wimpy and easily crushed & distorted. Whenever possible, I merged wires to avoid having a rat's nest of extra wires.
 
Good catch mike! 10 mm is the size of the engine mount bolts!
 
Phil Tarman said:
We're thinking a junction block for all the things I've got connected to the battery.
Click to expand...

Definitely the way to go. I used one like the one in Chuck's first picture on my Versys. I think it was five or six bucks at the auto parts store. It's only good for the hot side, so it would be a good idea to get a terminal block for the ground side. And make up a chart to show what leads go to which circuits. Makes it so much easier when you have to work on something.
 
I just installed a Fuzeblock last weekend on Traveller. It is by far the most elegant and efficient way to add accessories. The onboard relay makes it easy to wire into your system and the fuse selection method of determining what circuit is switched or always on is useful if down the road if you change your mind on how your accessories are setup.

Mike
 
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