New handlebars or bar risers?

[MrTim]

There is a handle on the NT to help it up on the center stand. It's the passenger grab rail over the pannier. The NT hops up in the center stand quite easily IF you put your foot on the stand AND put ALL of your weight on the lever as it acts like a fulcrum.

Mike

Yea, I was able to get it up on there using the grab handle, it is just too far to the right compared to what I am used to so you end up using your back muscles instead of your legs. I will get used to it I reckon. Happy to have a center stand anyway.

 

[Phil Tarman]

So did you have to lengthen your cables and brake lines when you put on the 2" risers? I was looking at them at Rox including the anti-vibe kind but at $145 that is a bit steep. I was messing around trying to figure out how far I would need to pull back and it is closer than I thought so maybe 2" would work?

It's been a long time ago, but IIRC, all I had to do was cut one cable tie on the clutch cable and it worked. I had a cable failure in 2012, that was due to the ferrule splitting and letting the cable take an extreme bend next to the handle. I ordered both a stock cable and a TransAlp cable since I was on a trip and the dealer in Montrose, where my son lived, was sure they'd get the stock cable by the Tuesday I needed to start home for Ft Morgan. I rode the bike for three days by only using the clutch to start and stop and made it to Montrose and then to the dealers. The TransAlp cable didn't get to Montrose until the day after I got to Ft Morgan, It seems like somebody else on the Forum bought it from me and paid shipping from Montrose to their location.

 

[MrTim]

It's been a long time ago, but IIRC, all I had to do was cut one cable tie on the clutch cable and it worked. I had a cable failure in 2012, that was due to the ferrule splitting and letting the cable take an extreme bend next to the handle. I ordered both a stock cable and a TransAlp cable since I was on a trip and the dealer in Montrose, where my son lived, was sure they'd get the stock cable by the Tuesday I needed to start home for Ft Morgan. I rode the bike for three days by only using the clutch to start and stop and made it to Montrose and then to the dealers. The TransAlp cable didn't get to Montrose until the day after I got to Ft Morgan, It seems like somebody else on the Forum bought it from me and paid shipping from Montrose to their location.

Thanks Phil, I think I will probably get one of those 2" Rox risers and deal with it. I don't want to go too crazy spending money on this with new cables and brake lines. I just bought some Spiegler brake lines for my BMW for $125 so the wife won't be happy if I am working on two at once. Hate to pay that much for brake lines but the ones that were on there are dated 1993 so its amazing it hasn't blown yet. And I know Spiegler will last longer than me. And they are out of Dayton, OH, I don't mind supporting my old state when I can.

But I think I have the wife talked into letting me keep both bikes! After 43 years she still surprises me. So maybe I will ride the Beemer in the summer and the Honda in the fall and spring since it blocks wind better? Can't wait.

 

[Hondafan]

I see a lot of posts for raising your bars on an NT700 but I am still on the fence about new bars or risers. I had carpal tunnel and trigger finger surgeries on most of my fingers about ten years ago and I can't do the sport bike lean any more. Not sure who Honda was targeting with these things but I love the bike other than the lean. I may need to go an inch up and 2-3 inches back to be pretty straight up.

I have a BMW K75 with RT bars on it from 1993 which I put on a bar back 1X1" which works great. No numbness or tingling. Of course the K75 is arguably the smoothest BMW they ever made. For me the Honda has a better seat since the last owner sent it off to Sargent who carved it, amazingly, into my ass shape. It also seems to weigh less with a lower center of gravity. And it has storage in the fairing, the BMW has no fairing.

Anyway, what do you recommend to set me straight up? I understand I will probably need to lengthen brake line and cables, what about the switch wiring? Does that need to be lengthened as well?

I just finished installing a 2" pair of ROX risers. They solved the forward lean problem for me....I am 5'10. I bought a Transalp clutch cable from Honda Canada ( although that bike was never sold here). It was $20.
The throttle cables were too short, and I could not find a custom pair for under $400. I ended up adding 5/16" to the right side steering stop. That solved the problem of tight cables when the handlebars are turned to the right. The bike has a lot of steering lock, so the the reduced travel is insignificant. Keeping the stock cables, also makes cable replacement a lot easier and cheaper.

 

[MrTim]

I just finished installing a 2" pair of ROX risers. They solved the forward lean problem for me....I am 5'10. I bought a Transalp clutch cable from Honda Canada ( although that bike was never sold here). It was $20.
The throttle cables were too short, and I could not find a custom pair for under $400. I ended up adding 5/16" to the right side steering stop. That solved the problem of tight cables when the handlebars are turned to the right. The bike has a lot of steering lock, so the the reduced travel is insignificant. Keeping the stock cables, also makes cable replacement a lot easier and cheaper.

I checked mine and I can't get enough slack for either cables or the brake line even with only 2" risers so I am looking at going even higher since I have to change cables and brake lines.

I found this company selling Flanders handlebars in whatever size and shape you want for about $120... http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/ImportStreet/78moreStreet.html

And this company selling cable making and brake line kits, https://revivalcycles.com/ They have a pretty good instructional video about making cables and they sell some nice kits...

.

And I am thinking about adding one of these brake unions and possibly using Revival Cycles brake line making kit as well... https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_114&products_id=3153 . I am hoping adding the union and pulling the brake line with the banjo fitting at the master cylinder and tying it to one side of the union and building a brake line to whatever length it needs to be to reach my new handlebars and tying the other end to the union, both banjo fittings. Or just buy a 12" jumper line already built somewhere?

I am pretty sure I can do the whole thing, handlebars and all for about $250. I have a lot of measuring and studying to do before I order anything. Not even sure if the brake union is an option but it looks logical enough to me and it eliminates the need for a Honda proprietary brake line for an ABS model where it goes from the master cylinder and attaches to a little connector and changes direction.

Too bad Helibars discontinued their rig for these bikes, it would have been a lot easier. But they have disappeared even from E-Bay.

 

[NewTo700V]

If anyone hasn't, I highly recommend fitting a Cramp Buster on the throttle. Super simple and cheap, but highly effective

 

[MrTim]

I just finished installing a 2" pair of ROX risers. They solved the forward lean problem for me....I am 5'10. I bought a Transalp clutch cable from Honda Canada ( although that bike was never sold here). It was $20.
The throttle cables were too short, and I could not find a custom pair for under $400. I ended up adding 5/16" to the right side steering stop. That solved the problem of tight cables when the handlebars are turned to the right. The bike has a lot of steering lock, so the the reduced travel is insignificant. Keeping the stock cables, also makes cable replacement a lot easier and cheaper.

So Hondafan, was your brake line long enough? And is your bike an ABS model? I think the non-ABS has a different brake line at the front but I'm not sure. Others can explain that. I think 2" risers will probably work for me but only if I can do no more than you did to lengthen the clutch cable. I already have the risers.

I will have to look at my throttle cables closer, I was thinking they could possibly be disconnected and pulled back behind the handlebars on the left instead of in front and around them? It looks pretty tight between the gas tank and bars but who knows? That would give plenty of slack I think. A $20 fix beats $250. But if I can't make it work I will probably fix it exactly as I want it.

 

[Hondafan]

So Hondafan, was your brake line long enough? And is your bike an ABS model? I think the non-ABS has a different brake line at the front but I'm not sure. Others can explain that. I think 2" risers will probably work for me but only if I can do no more than you did to lengthen the clutch cable. I already have the risers.

I will have to look at my throttle cables closer, I was thinking they could possibly be disconnected and pulled back behind the handlebars on the left instead of in front and around them? It looks pretty tight between the gas tank and bars but who knows? That would give plenty of slack I think. A $20 fix beats $250. But if I can't make it work I will probably fix it exactly as I want it.

I just removed the brake line clamp on the upper triple "tree"....that gives you an extra inch. That hose secures to the lower triple clamp at the brake line junction, so there is no movement in that hose. It requires no slack. Mine does not have ABS.
The throttle cables cannot be re-routed. Just make sure they are behind the clutch cable in that wire retainer on the top triple tree. That will give you maximum slack.
I you got the ROX risers that can rotate in the handlebar clamps.....there is only so far you can rotate them back before they hit the fuel tank on full lock. So the rearward movement is limited.
Personally, I would not want to be sitting any farther back than I am. I think I would get too much turbulence off the windshield. I have not ridden the bike with the risers, so I can't be sure of that.
Good luck.

 

[MrTim]

Do you happen to have the part number and the place you ordered your Transalp cable from? I see 2008-2011 as 22870-mff-d01 but earlier models have a different number. Either way, I don't see any North American supplier. I haven't checked with my local Honda dealer yet to see if they can get one but knowing them it will be double.

 

[Hondafan]

Do you happen to have the part number and the place you ordered your Transalp cable from? I see 2008-2011 as 22870-mff-d01 but earlier models have a different number. Either way, I don't see any North American supplier. I haven't checked with my local Honda dealer yet to see if they can get one but knowing them it will be double.

I just went to my local Honda dealer and ordered a clutch cable for a 700 Transalp. I had it in a week. That bike was never sold here, but that cable may have been used on other models. I do not have the part number or bill....I could phone them on Tuesday and get it for you. You could go to your local Honda dealer and give them that part number.

 

[MrTim]

No problem. I will find it, thanks...

 

[Frosty]

Helibar used to make a kit that raised and moved the stock handlebars back. The kit was expensive and they stopped producing them. The kit included longer cables and an extension hydraulic line for the brake master cylinder. My NT has antiskid. The picture shows the extension.

 

[MrTim]

I wish they still sold the Helibar option but it looks like they were dis-continued about 2016-17? But I went ahead and picked up a Transalp clutch cable and put on some 2" Rox risers. The throttle cables are pretty tight at the ends but the engine doesn't rev up when you push it all the way so I am not too worried about it. I unbolted the top bracket on the brake and it seems to be long enough as well.

Of course it has rained almost everyday for a month so I haven't been out to try it. Maybe this weekend? 45 degrees but some sun. Speaking of cold, I just picked up one of these winter riding jackets from Amazon. Really good quality for the money. I have a couple of other brands that were a lot more money but not as good of quality...

https://tinyurl.com/ry3n25h

 

[Hondafan]

A jacket for 60 bucks....what a great buy. And it has consistent high reviews.

 

[MrTim]

Yea, and there's a picture of me sizing it up second from the bottom.

 

[lynnbpa]

A jacket for 60 bucks....what a great buy. And it has consistent high reviews.

I just ordered one: $56.00 - 10% coupon available!

 

[Warren]

I bought that exact HWK jacket and pants a few months ago. Due to the price I did not have high expectations. So far so good. I have not ridden in the rain yet (they have a mid non removable water proof liner) but I have ridden in temperatures down into the 20's and both have keep me warm. The outer material definitely feels lighter than my other jackets and pants and I doubt if the armor is really CE approved. I really don't think these will hold up well in a crash or slide. I am currently only wearing them during my low speed city commuting. Mine did not have a country of origin on them but I believe they are made somewhere in Asia. The old saying of "you get what you pay for" most likely applies here.