600m valve check results

[Rmcapozzi]

Finished the valve adjustment on Saturday.

I removed the tank which made thing sooooo much more accessible. Removing the tank was a snap. 1 plug and 3 hoses (after relieving pressure in the fuel system).

All valves were in the center specs. 2 where on the tight side of the center spec and one was on the loose side of the center spec. So no need for any adjustments!

A few notes for those looking to do this in the future:

1. Pay special attention to the marks on the flywheel. There is an "F" mark and an "FT" mark very close to each other. Make sure you use the "FT" mark.
2. Take plenty of pictures of the 5-6 electrical connectors you need to remove to pull the throttle body.
3. The front cylinder's throttle body's band clamp is a royal pain to reach. You'll need either a VERY stubby philips/JIS tipped screw driver or a 1/4" socket with a short extension. I was able to use my 1/4" socket that had a 8mm deep socket and if I didn't insert the ratchet completely into the socket, I was able to reach the band clamp bolt/screw. The spacing is VERY tight.
4. If you remove the tank (which I highly recommend) the quick disconnect fuel hose is more easily disconnected if you don't raise the tank up to high. The higher the tank is raised, the more a small bracket gets in the way of pulling the hose off. (Oh and have a little rag under the hose as you'll get about a tablespoon of fuel that comes out after you disconnect the hose, follow the service manual's instructions as they were spot on).

Also, is it possible to remove the front spark plug with the valve cover on? Wow is that a tight space!! I need to buy some more mini sized tools. I think I'll just swap out plugs and the filter when I check the valves every 8k miles since I'm already in there.

 

[loonytuna]

As this is an ongoing debate, how ere the valves? Did they "need " adjusting?

 

[loonytuna]

Sorry, "were "

 

[Rmcapozzi]

As this is an ongoing debate, how ere the valves? Did they "need " adjusting?

The most important item is whether or not your bike needs an adjustment. You'll only know if you check. :wink:

From my original post:

All valves were in the center specs. 2 where on the tight side of the center spec and one was on the loose side of the center spec. So no need for any adjustments!

 

[rcase13]

We should have a poll to see who checked, when they checked and the results (in spec or out of spec). Mine were checked at a 1000 miles but don't know the results. I'll check again in 5000 miles.

 

[loonytuna]

Thanks, I guess I should only read AFTER the morning coffee! - lol

I agree with rcase - "We should have a poll to see who checked, when they checked and the results (in spec or out of spec)."

The most important item is whether or not your bike needs an adjustment. You'll only know if you check. :wink:

From my original post:

 

[Phil Tarman]

How was your air filter? That puppy's a bit expensive to replace every 8,000 miles. Mine was replaced at 32,000. Of course, I never thought to ask to see the old one.

According to my mechanic, the two front exhaust valves were "on the tight side" at the 600 mile check. He adjusted them then. At the next check, which I did at 6,000 because I was leaving on a 4,000 mile trip, he adjusted two more valves. I don't think any have needed since then.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

The filter after 600 miles didn't look very dirty. There were some feathers/fur that had gotten sucked in it though. I asked my wife if she remembered striking a little bird.

The manual does call for 12k miles for air filter replacement. If it looks like it is in good shape at 8k, then I'll wait and check again at 12k. If it is like the Wing, I'll likely only need to change it at 2x the requested interval. So maybe every 16-24k miles.

How was your air filter? That puppy's a bit expensive to replace every 8,000 miles. Mine was replaced at 32,000. Of course, I never thought to ask to see the old one.

According to my mechanic, the two front exhaust valves were "on the tight side" at the 600 mile check. He adjusted them then. At the next check, which I did at 6,000 because I was leaving on a 4,000 mile trip, he adjusted two more valves. I don't think any have needed since then.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

I know the manual says to prop up the fuel tank on the left handlebar. Well if you have a Helibar riser kit and/or stuff on your left handlebar, using this technique can be troublesome.

I grabbed a set of my ratchet straps and hooked one end through the latch plate for the rear seat and the other end through the right side (could have used the left also) fairing mounting boss. This keeps the tank more upright than setting it on the handlebars. Works pretty good so I'm just passing along the tip.

I used this just so I could disconnect the fuel lines and then removed the tank. This provided much more room to work on the valves. Using the strap does provide more space than resting the tank on the handlebar so even for just changing the air filter, I think it would be a bit easier and you're free to move the handlebars if you need.