Finished the valve adjustment on Saturday.
I removed the tank which made thing sooooo much more accessible. Removing the tank was a snap. 1 plug and 3 hoses (after relieving pressure in the fuel system).
All valves were in the center specs. 2 where on the tight side of the center spec and one was on the loose side of the center spec. So no need for any adjustments!
A few notes for those looking to do this in the future:
I removed the tank which made thing sooooo much more accessible. Removing the tank was a snap. 1 plug and 3 hoses (after relieving pressure in the fuel system).
All valves were in the center specs. 2 where on the tight side of the center spec and one was on the loose side of the center spec. So no need for any adjustments!
A few notes for those looking to do this in the future:
- Pay special attention to the marks on the flywheel. There is an "F" mark and an "FT" mark very close to each other. Make sure you use the "FT" mark.
- Take plenty of pictures of the 5-6 electrical connectors you need to remove to pull the throttle body.
- The front cylinder's throttle body's band clamp is a royal pain to reach. You'll need either a VERY stubby philips/JIS tipped screw driver or a 1/4" socket with a short extension. I was able to use my 1/4" socket that had a 8mm deep socket and if I didn't insert the ratchet completely into the socket, I was able to reach the band clamp bolt/screw. The spacing is VERY tight.
- If you remove the tank (which I highly recommend) the quick disconnect fuel hose is more easily disconnected if you don't raise the tank up to high. The higher the tank is raised, the more a small bracket gets in the way of pulling the hose off. (Oh and have a little rag under the hose as you'll get about a tablespoon of fuel that comes out after you disconnect the hose, follow the service manual's instructions as they were spot on).