90-degree valve stem

[Sojourner]

I need new tires, and am wondering about changing the valve stems. In another thread, someone recommended these:
http://kurveygirl.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=169&products_id=673

However, when I brought in my Suzuki Burgman super-scooter's wheels in for tire replacements a number of years ago, I brought in a pair of 90-deg. metal stems and the shop recommended against them, saying that they didn't seal well or could leak or something like that, and recommended regular rubber valve stems. (Not that I should necessarily take what that shop says, because they replaced my original stubby ATV-style valve stem with a standard one, making the 14" rear tire even more difficult to air up!)

Any comments pro or con on this? I really would like the 90-degree ones if they were reliable.

I'm also on the fence about whether I attempt to change my own tires, or bring the wheels in to a shop to have them do it. It's $45ea to replace and balance when I bring in my own tire, $35 if I buy from them. Given that I would need to buy tire levers and rim protectors, the cost of 1 tire set change is a wash in the near term. I don't know if I'm better off having a shop do it so that I don't scratch my rims. Any thoughts (well, most any thoughts) appreciated.

 

[Brillot2000]

My Honda dealer installed the 90° Honda recommended stem on my rear wheel. I have not had any issues with it.

Even though you may not agree with your dealer regarding their comments. They have the experience as they probably replaced thousands of tires in a few years time. They can rely on their experiences and share their recommendations with you. It's totally up to you if you take that advise.

There are a lot of aftermarket tire changers out there. The best one that I found at the IMS was the Classic No-Mar Tire Changer. However, you are going to put about $700-800 into purchasing one, which I did not by the way. It will not scratch up your wheels for sure. Balancing is another issue and would require you buying another tool to be able to do that.

I changed my tires for myself on my dual sport using some tire spoons of various lengths and an old oil barrel. I would not attempt to do this for my street bike running tubeless.

 

[Woodaddict]

I changed mine out to about 87 deg. you will be looking for 10mm. the ones I bought have a rubber o-ring on inside, I think all metal 90 deg or so stems have a o-ring. I also have the No Mar Cycle Hill tire changer. its the blue color. I have saved over and over plus doing it on my time over going to dealer. I have always taken off the wheel and taken to dealer with a tire in hand.

 

[DirtFlier]

I fitted the 80-degree type in 2010 when my NT wore out the OEM tires and have not had any leakage problems.

At least for me, having a tire changer at home means I can do it on my own schedule and not when a dealer can fit it into their work. My tire changer is homemade and uses some parts from No-Mar. It wasn't the cost that turned me away from owning a No-Mar changer - it was the amount of floor space the changer would take for 99% of the time when it wasn't being used. My 2-1/2 car garage not only stores my car and my 3 bikes but also my mowers!

 

[mikesim]

Unless you have a changer as do DirtFlier and Woodaddict, I would not attempt to do it yourself using levers and rim protectors. You will very likely mess up the alloy rims. The tubeless tires on the NT have much stiffer sidewalls than the old tube type tires that you may have been accustomed to back in the day.

 

[junglejim]

I disagree with Mike on this one (sort-of). Yes there is a great opportunity to damage alloy rims with tire levers. But I change my own tires, and have done so on my Concours, Versys, NT, and Tiger without issue.

But I have a (home made) bead breaker and a balancing spindle. The dismounting and mounting I do with levers and rim protectors. Wise use of lubricants, rim protectors, and levers all used with caution and (and some experience) CAN get the job done. I usually use more than the two levers most kits come with.

I started this when I watched some "cowboys" at a dealer change my tire with careless workmanship and charge $50 for the abuse. I concluded I could do better than that. Sure, there are good shops that do good work. However, for me it is pretty inconvenient to use them. Most shops want me to drop off the tire and pick it up at the end of the day or leave it overnight. That means I have to drop it off and wait around in town (50 miles from home) or make two trips to town. That might mean driving 200 miles to get a tire changed.

So I say weigh your options. Everyone's situation is different. Make an informed decision. And if you change your own tires BE CAREFUL.

 

[Brillot2000]

I'd have to agree with both Mike and Jim on this subject. Street tires are much stiffer and highly rely on the bead for sealing in tubeless applications. If the bead gets buggered up in any way, you are for certain to have a slow leak. In tubed applications, this is not worrisome.

 

[Rand soper]

I installed 82° aluminum valve stems when I installed the last set of tires (Pilot Road 4's, installed myself no problems) and absolutely love the angled valve stems. They make it very easy to check the tire pressure. I would recommend a high quality set, and I have not had any leaks at all.

 

[ARKNT]

I replace my tires with a homemade bead breaker, stand, and tire irons. I bought a balancer with low friction bearings.
Sojourner with the limited miles you are doing it may not be worth the investment but doing it yourself lets you know it was done right and may be more convenient than dropping off at a dealer. When changing also remember the drive spline lube. That is another reason to not just drop off the bike and pick it up later thinking all is well when it may not be.
I added angled metal valve stems and like them. Mine came from Soundrider I believe.

Brad

 

[mikesim]

I disagree with Mike on this one (sort-of). Yes there is a great opportunity to damage alloy rims with tire levers. So I say weigh your options. Everyone's situation is different. Make an informed decision. And if you change your own tires BE CAREFUL.

Jim, Edsel Murphy was observing me change a tire which prompted him to create his law... "if anything can go wrong, it will and at the worst possible time..." Thus I no longer fool with tires, tubes, levers or rim protectors.

Mike

 

[junglejim]

Thus I no longer fool with tires, tubes, levers or rim protectors.

Ya Mike, but you're smarter than me.

JungleJim's law: "You can get away with a lot of stupid stuff if you think it through first."

 

[Brillot2000]

I put in metal 90 degree valve stems years ago on my Suzuki Burgman. They were wonderful.

My local dealer used to change my tires for $30 each wheel. For that price, it wasn't worth it to do my own. But they just raised it to $100 a wheel. For that price, I will change my own. The rear wheel on my F800GT is extremely simple to remove. Six bolts, I think and it is off. I've changed many tires in the past on bicycles and cars. It's different, but not that much different.

Chris

HOLY oop:... $100 for labor to change a tire when you take the bike into the dealer. I was griping when my dealer started charging $50 for tire installation and balancing.

The tires for my Dual Sport are less than $50 each. I am not to pay more than the tire to have it installed.

 

[Warren]

$100 per tire is what my dealer charged the last time he put new tires on my NT. If you consider that the hourly labor rate at most dealer is now over $100 per hour that's probably not all that bad especially when you consider what a pain it is to remove the rear wheel on the NT. I did not ask what the charge would be if I removed the wheels and brought them in since I had no desire to do that.

 

[Sojourner]

Yeah, that's actually a good price with R&R. My little local Honda shop's rate is $85/hr., and the Honda book time is 1 hr for the front wheel, 2 hrs for the rear.

 

[mikesim]

Ya Mike, but you're smarter than me.

JungleJim's law: "You can get away with a lot of stupid stuff if you think it through first."

First corollary to JungleJim's Law: "'ceptin if you're Mike"



Mike

 

[Brillot2000]

$100 per tire is what my dealer charged the last time he put new tires on my NT. If you consider that the hourly labor rate at most dealer is now over $100 per hour that's probably not all that bad especially when you consider what a pain it is to remove the rear wheel on the NT. I did not ask what the charge would be if I removed the wheels and brought them in since I had no desire to do that.

On my last tire change a few weeks ago, my local dealer took the rear wheel without removing either the rear fender segment and exhaust pipe. Considering that he has 2 other NT owners that still come to his shop. I guess that he found a quick way to get the rear wheel out with a minimal amount of work. He also knows the importance of applying the moly paste to the final drive spines.

 

[Bear]

Dropping the rear wheel is no big deal if you have a lift with a trap door. I like doing my own work--especially given the special lube we must use on our splines. I take my wheels off and cart them off to my local H-D-Honda Dealer. Since I bought my past two bikes from him, he charges me $35 per wheel. Hint: When you have the wheels off, thoroughly clean them. The Tech will appreciate it. In my bicycle shop, I am always happy when I get a clean bike in. They are much more pleasant to work on.

 

[JimTid]

I've used Kurvey Girl 90 degree valve stems with no issues. Now I have a 90 degree adapter that I attach for filling then remove it.