A couple of maintentance questions

[Phil Tarman]

A new member, "Loyal to Honda," from Rockmart, Georgia, sent me a PM. I haven't seen an introduction from him yet and hope he sends one in soon, but I told him I'd post his PM and see if any of you can help him. I'm pretty confident you'll be able to! Here's the message I got:

Hello, and thanks to all that have read my.introduction and have replied with a welcome. As for the NT, In my opinion it cannot be topped. It fits me and my style of riding perfectly. I would like to know if possible how or where to connect the wiring for the bar riser clamp power outlet on MC Larry's product. Is it hard to connect? Also what would be the suggestion of the group of what type of gps mount to use for Garmin NUVI 1100 series. Finally the fairing below the handle bar mount down inside the front of the tank is cracked. I suppose this happened during re assembly after an air filter change. any suggestions of how to repair? I have some ideas that i will try but just wondered if anyone has had this experience. Will also offer my help to everyone. I have an extensive maintenance background on heavy aircraft, marine, auto, motorcycle, heavy equipment, and hydraulics. If at all in any way http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/prof...o=editoptionsI can help, please ask!!!

Help away!

 

[BigBill]

Link him to the youtube vids by soundtechguy, he covers that very well.

 

[JohnC]

"A possibly better idea that someone else did was to run one fat lead forward from the Fuzeblock and then branch from the front end of that lead. This reduces the number of possible wires and opportunities to short."

I would not do that. It sounds like not a bad idea, but each accessory, or at least each essential accessory, should have its own fuse for three reasons:
1. One shorted accessory will not take out anything else fed by the same fuse.
2. When a problem does occur, troubleshooting will be easier.
3. The multiple wire junction at the accessory end of the circuit is a more likely problem source than any single wire.

 

[Rocky]

Not sure how the crack is on your fairing, but on my old Kawasaki I am getting some fairing cracks and have had very good luck using fiberglass on the back or unseen side. You can get a fiberglass repair kit with the resin, hardener, and the fibergalss matting pretty cheap and it is easy to use. You will still have a visable crack on the good side but if you are carefull it will be small, and should not crack any further.

 

[U20417]

Not sure how the crack is on your fairing, but on my old Kawasaki I am getting some fairing cracks and have had very good luck using fiberglass on the back or unseen side. You can get a fiberglass repair kit with the resin, hardener, and the fibergalss matting pretty cheap and it is easy to use. You will still have a visable crack on the good side but if you are carefull it will be small, and should not crack any further.

Rocky,

I have used the same method with great success. I always used three layers of cloth and resin because an old airplane guy told me I should. Do you use more or less?

 

[suvcw04]

Rocky,

I have used the same method with great success. I always used three layers of cloth and resin because an old airplane guy told me I should. Do you use more or less?

The key word here is OLD. I would listen to him.

 

[karl]

The bodywork repairs that I have done in the past used ABS cement. It is a mix of solvent and plastic and you can use a file to make more abs dust you can mix with the cement to make a putty for filling larger gaps. Works great for repairing broken tabs and such as well. You ca use plasticine or play dough that hold some things in place as the repair sets.

This comes under the heading of chemical "welding" and done well is as strong as the original part.

 

[Rocky]

Rocky,

I have used the same method with great success. I always used three layers of cloth and resin because an old airplane guy told me I should. Do you use more or less?

Pretty much depends on how bad the crack is and how much room I have. I always use at least 2 layers of matting, or cloth, so that the fibers are crossed not only at 90 degrees, but 45 too, in other words have the matts offset from each other when placed. For the fairings where there is not a lot of real stress I usually just resin it one time, if it were a real stress point I would do more.

 

[karl]

My preference is to use the material the part is made from rather than make something else stick to it.