Break in period with regular oil before switching to full synthetic???

[savantelite]

In automobiles, I have heard you should run regular motor oil for the first 20000 miles then switch to full-synthetic. Is this true for motorcycles?

 

[Warren]

I am sure you will get a lot of opinions but I am not sure I have every read anything on the subject that was fact based. I heard the logic for it expressed but I am not sure it has been supported by the manufactures.

 

[Madmax]

I changed my oil with Mobil 1 dino at 600 miles. At 3000 miles I will switch to Mobil 1 Syn. To answer your question, most bikes can go to Syn. at 3000 miles. If you have a BMW you should wait till 12,000 miles. I switched my Harley at 3,000 and it now has 69,000 with no problems...

 

[Rmcapozzi]

As long as the oil meets the manufactures specs you can use what ever brand/blend bottle color of oil you like.

Some automobiles come from the factory with full synthetic. The notion of having to wait to use synthetic no longer applies (kinda like the old 3k mile oil change deal). It was probably valid back in the days when synthetics first came out and motors needed break in periods due to poor (as compared to today) machining tolerances. Modern machining has made this largely a mute point.

Just pay attention to the manufacturers recommend specs and you'll be good!

I have 2 cars that have only run off brand "dino" oil. 1 has 240k and the other 140k. Neither burn any oil and run perfectly fine. My '09 Wing has 66k and has only run the regular Honda "dino" oil with zero oil related issues. I have an '89 CB-1 that has only ever run "dino" oil....yup, no oil related issues. All of those oils meet/exceed the stated specs in the manuals. That's the only thing you need to really need get right.

In automobiles, I have heard you should run regular motor oil for the first 20000 miles then switch to full-synthetic. Is this true for motorcycles?

 

[JQL]

Honda recommend you don't use full synthetic oil in the NT. I'm sure some one will know the reason why but it eludes me.

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I've remembered... It has something to do with the clutch.

 

[Phil Tarman]

The thing to avoid is "Energy Saving" oil. It's got stuff in it that can make clutches slip. With the Connies a lot of us ran 20/50wt Mobil One auto oil because it lacked the energy conserving additives. I wouldn't run anything that thick in the NT, but don't know why my service manager would avoid even Honda's full-synthetic oil. I'll try to remember to ask him if I get in for the tire change on Friday.

 

[Woodaddict]

I will weigh in on the issue. Just bought my nt new on 12-7-11, when i took it back for 600 mile check up, i asked about full synthetic. He said not now but after 8,000 miles you can do it. Service manager( a good one!) for honda dealership

 

[Rmcapozzi]

This is the label you want to avoid. Note the "Energy Conserving" in the bottom of the label. If you are looking at an oil and it has "Energy Conserving" in the SAE label, DO NOT put it in the NT or any other motorcycle that has a shared motor/transmission sump with a wet clutch.

A lighter weight oil could be discussed as energy saving. The label is what you want to pay attention to.

I used Rotella 5-40 synthetic last time. I spent a bunch of time researching the issue and THAT one met the requirements (not all Rotella choices did/do). That said, I've formed a good relationship with my local dealer and have now started to buy his Suzuki branded 15-40 oil for the Wee (changes every 3500). I also noticed some "Energy saving" language creeping onto the Rotella label last time I looked.