Broken saddlebag lid latch

I find I am using the NT more and more for running about making various trips (what a great bike it is) and am about to fit the larger pannier lids (I got them as part of the purchase deal running in the UK, but haven't got round to fitting them yet). I find I'm carrying more stuff around and might as well have the extra capacity available for if I need it. Having finally taken a close look, that mounting point for the latches really does look flimsy. Has anyone tried filling around the area with epoxy resin (or similar) prior to fitting the lids - as an attempt to add a little extra strength to a bad design? I thought it might be worth a try to repair them BEFORE they break.

Bob

I'm thinking that's not a bad idea. But no need to NOT do it just because they are already fitted. I have both sizes of lids and switch back and forth between them. Went to Bike Bandit and got a second set of latch plates and screws and rigged a different lanyard setup so that switching back and forth does not involve removing/installing screws into the plastic. 10 minute job to swap them.

The larger panniers are useful but somehow disturb the tao of the bike, so I only mount them when I need the extra space.
 
I've been thinking along the same lines as Old Bob, reinforce the weak areas BEFORE they break. So, does an epoxy like JB Weld bond to whatever plastic these things are made of? Did you sandpaper the surface first? Treat it with some chemical?

Bill

Ops! I should have used Google before I posted. It seems that Loctite makes an epoxy that bonds with "most plastics." I'll get some and try it.

Bill
 
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The larger panniers are useful but somehow disturb the tao of the bike ...

You are SO right. There is something satisfyingly 'in proportion' using the standard lids. I was thinking of leaving the deeper lids on; but now you mention it, fitting extra catches to the larger lids, and swapping them as needed, makes more sense.

Bill: I haven't actually done it yet - it just seemed a good idea to support that flimsy rib of plastic. We have stuff sold under the name of 'Araldite' over here that is murder to shift it you get it somewhere you don't want it, so I was going to use that. It too says 'most plastics', but roughing up the surface to 'key' the resin in must be a good idea - although if you fill in that area between the screw mounts and the edge of the lid, all it needs to do is prevent that rib from flexing; it doesn't actually have to hold anything together. I'm going to give it a go.

Bob

PS: Just checked my pack again and it say 'plastics' in standard sized letters - with the word 'most' printed so incredibly small it's a wonder my poor old eyes could focus on it.
 
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LOL! I like the tao of the bike better with the big lids, especially since I repainted my gouged-up silver lids satin black. I didn't bother with extra straps, but did get a second set of latches.
 
What about adding a guitar case latch to the top of the bags??

I was thinking about something like that but have not identified anything, if you come up with something, let the list know.
 
LOL! I like the tao of the bike better with the big lids, especially since I repainted my gouged-up silver lids satin black. I didn't bother with extra straps, but did get a second set of latches.

Actually I manufactured an alternative set of lanyards out of some polyester cord, small carabiners, fishing tackle and electrical stuff. In addition to making it easy to disconnect the lids, I wound up with round lanyards such that problem with the left forward lanyard sagging into the bag seal is eliminated. I posted details some months back.

Black's not a bad way to go, since scratches just reveal the black underneath and aren't so visible:smile:
 
Mine finally broke. I think part of the problem is that it is screwed together. If it had studs glued in then it wouldn't put stress on the plastic when the screw is tightened. Honda ordered a new one.Maybe I'll change how its done when I get home.
 
Bill: I haven't actually done it yet - it just seemed a good idea to support that flimsy rib of plastic. We have stuff sold under the name of 'Araldite' over here that is murder to shift it you get it somewhere you don't want it, so I was going to use that. It too says 'most plastics', but roughing up the surface to 'key' the resin in must be a good idea - although if you fill in that area between the screw mounts and the edge of the lid, all it needs to do is prevent that rib from flexing; it doesn't actually have to hold anything together. I'm going to give it a go.

"That rib" is what's cracked now on my right big lid. The bungee buddies look worth installing, Tat. Have you ever used them to carry anything on top of the panniers or are they just there as an emergency lid latch?
 
super !!!!!!! it's exactly the system i want . Have you removed the original system or have you added this one to strengthen the original ?
 
I added it to the original, mainly so I still have the one key locking system.

I tend to overload the side cases and these relieve the load from the factory latches.
 
I added it to the original, mainly so I still have the one key locking system.

I tend to overload the side cases and these relieve the load from the factory latches.

Charlie, where did you get your latches?
 
http://www.hardwareelf.com/elf/latchesandlocks.jsp

#L-032 most of the way down the page.

As others have shown there are other types around. I just liked the look of these.

You do have to plan ahead. I found the only two spots where I could reach behind the plastic to attach the bike side of the latches. It is best to do a "dry run" of drilling holes and fixing the latches so you don't drill through something you shouldn't.

FWIW, I positioned the lid side of the latches so the holes did not enter the cargo side of the lid. The lip is wide enough to accept the backing washer for the rivet.

Measure four or five times before you drill :)

Or, you can just buy my bike and sell yours :)
 
FWIW, the luggage style latches are not any more difficult to align and install than padlocks. Just make a template (if they don't come with one).
 
Your problem sounds like the cable that the key turns is out of adjustment. I'm not sure how to adjust it but if it's jamming opening and closing I think the cable is just a little long or short.
 
Lol I can drive up and you can compare mine. I've never had a single issue with them.
 
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