[How To] Changing Rear Tire Without Removing Muffler

[Herb]

After my cross country trip, my BT 023 was squared from all the 2up super slab riding in the extreme heat. I got close to 9,000 which I can live with given the situation.

I've got my tire changing routine down without removing the muffler.

1. undo rear muffler bolt and loosen the bolt near brake peddle but otherwise keep muffler in place.
2. Use my 27mm open wrench on the axle nut.
3. With muffler loose, push it up and away to get a 14 mm socket on the brake stopper bolt to loosen but finish removing with 14mm wrench. Again, push the muffler up and out to remove stopper bolt. The rest of the tire removal is the same as indicated in the manual.

Tire replacement

1. The hardest thing is getting the brake caliper over the brake rotar when putting the tire back. I made it much easier by removing a brake pad and putting it back after the wheel was back in place. Much easier.
2. Again, use 27mm open wrench to tighten axle nut.
3. push muffler up and away to get stopper bolt back in place and tighten up with 14mm open wrench.

Draw back... no torque wrench on axle nut or stopper bolt.

I'm also getting much better changing the tires. I have a 2x4 bead breaker attached to an exposed stud in my shed which works very well. I'm probably down to a half hour once the tire's off the bike.

And I brought a balancer from Harbor Freight for $39 that worked well. No more dyna beads for me right now. I put another BT 023 but am leaning towards a PR 3 next time with Rick reporting near 15,000 on his rear tire.

 

[Curious Mike]

Thank You for this info, Herb. I'll definitely be using it in the future.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

Remove the entire rear caliper first, do your other stuff, and lastly, install the caliper then bleed the thing, which is very easy. I have a full car size hydraulic lift and I positioned my NT so that the center stand was on the very back ledge of the lift, with nothing under the rear tire but air, then it can be lowered straight down and not interfere at all.

I watched a Youtube video of a goldwing rear tire and rim R&R and it took maybe 10 minutes: Loosen lug nuts a little, lean bike all the way over on the right side, upon the engine guard and pannier guards, Grab the rear tire and lift it a bit so that the center stand is in place, which holds the rear tire slightly off the ground, remove the 5 loosened lug nuts and then lift the tire and rim up and off, clean splines on the final drive output and on the rim and remoly and then place rim with new/ repaired tire in place and tighten lug nuts. Tilt bike up and set on side stand so that weight is on the rear tire and tighten lug nuts to spec. It looked very easy. It would be easier with 2 people to put the bike on it's side and to raise it up but the average size guy did it alone.

I'm very close to buying a new 2012 Wing but will keep my red NT also.

Sam

You're describing a tire change on GL1800 with the single sided swing arm using the "tip over" method. Works great especially if you have later model wings ('06 and newer) or a trailer hitch.

The FD spline however is never exposed during a tire change. You never have to mess with the FD with the 1800 rear wheel change. Now the previous model wings (GL1500 and earlier) with the standard swing arms and through axles would require dealing with the FD.

Sure would be nice if the NT's rear wheel change was that easy!

 

[mikesim]

I'm very close to buying a new 2012 Wing but will keep my red NT also.

Sam[/QUOTE]

A Wing? Now yer talkin'... wish I would have had one sometime in my life.... <sigh>

Mike