OP
OP
CAn y'all save me the research and advise best practice/method for this flush?
Coolant Leak
- Thread starter RedNigel
- Start date
mikesim
Site Supporter
I'm assuming that the cooling system is in good shape so no chemicals will be needed. Just drain the old coolant out of the engine and coolant recovery tank and fill with distilled water and run until the t-stat is cycling. Turn off and let it cool down a bit and drain the distilled water from the system. If the water looks pretty clean, only one flush is necessary. If the water is pretty contaminated, then another flush or two would be wise until it flushes clean. If the cooling system is really cruddy to begin with then the use of a radiator flush chemical is in order. You can buy that at your parts store or mix a tablespoon of dishwasher detergent in a gallon of tap water and use it for the initial flush and then follow up with the distilled water flush. The proper coolant to use to refill the system would be the OE Honda coolant or Zerex Asian Blue both of which are pre-mixed so no dilution is necessary. Hope this helps.
Mike
JQL
Growing old disgracefully
Do as Mikesim suggests.
I tend to do the flush with the thermostat removed as it allows for the water to flow around the system better (personal preference). It also means I can check the thermostat is working, while waiting for the bike to cool down, by putting it in a saucepan of tap water with a jam thermometer, heating the water and checking the opening temperature. Can't remember the opening temperature of the thermostat off the top of my head somewhere around 80°C if memory serves. I'll check it and post back. (checked: according to page 7-9 of the manual, it's between 80° - 84°C (176° - 183° F). Valve lift 8mm (0.3") minimum at 95°C (203°F).) If you're replacing the thermostat, there should be no need to check it.
If possible, try to get premixed coolant with a darker colour as it's easier to check the level in the reservoir. I use Motul Motocool Expert Coolant (it's what my Honda Main Dealer uses) which is yellow in Europe so not as easy to see the level. Whichever coolant you use, make sure there are no silicates in it.
For reference my NT700 has 199,230 km (123,822 miles) and is 14 years old, the thermostat and the cooling system o-rings failed last month. Not bad going methinks!
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JQL
Growing old disgracefully
If it's of any use, this is the refilling procedure copied from the manual:
OP
OP
OK everyone. This is getting to be BS
One week ago I complained that the bike began to leak after sitting leak free for 7 days. I just walked out and saw a puddle of coolant from a motor that has been stone cold for 7 more days.
I haven't removed the left side tupperware so that is next but its questionable how much one can see from the left.
I'm getting upset
One week ago I complained that the bike began to leak after sitting leak free for 7 days. I just walked out and saw a puddle of coolant from a motor that has been stone cold for 7 more days.
I haven't removed the left side tupperware so that is next but its questionable how much one can see from the left.
I'm getting upset
JQL
Growing old disgracefully
A puddle under the engine of a stone cold motorcycle parked on it's side stand was exactly the symptoms I had.
OP
OP
I have the O-rings on order. JQL, it seems like if I remove the overflow tank and tip over bar I might be able to do the entire job from the right side of the bike. Was that your experience?
JQL
Growing old disgracefully
When you first look at the job it looks impossible without taking the head off. The good news is, it is actually quite easy once you know the trick.
If you haven't watched this video, do so as it'll give you some pointers and the tools I used:
Some hints:
If you haven't watched this video, do so as it'll give you some pointers and the tools I used:
Some hints:
- You need a head torch and lots of light
- You do not need to remove or even raise the tank.
- You do need to remove the fairing on both sides (push forwards to unclip the front part).
- You need to remove the tipover bars as it will give you more space.
- Get a soft toothbrush and clean out the space between the cylinders - it'll be dirty and you will drop the O-ring a couple of times.
- On the left side, you need to move the relay holder bracket out of the way (2 screws if I remember correctly). This is so you can hook the O-ring over the pipe.
- You do not need to remove the reservoir tank completely, just let it dangle on the pipe to the radiator.
- You need a paperclip, or similar, bent with a small hook on the end to hook the new O-ring over the pipe. Without this, the job is nearly impossible.
- You need some grips with something on the jaws to protect the pipe, I used heat shrink but electrical tape will also work, while moving the pipe backwards and forwards.
- The pipe may be a bit stiff, so twist it while moving it. The pipe doesn't slide very much, there's only about an ⅛" gap (if that) between the end of the pipe and the cylinder to get the O-ring though
- Cut the old O-rings then pull them off with some needle-nosed pliers (grips). They'll be stuck to the pipe.
- When putting the new O-ring on, try to get more than 50% seated in the indentation, if possible, with your fingers before moving round the other side to hook the rest of it onto the pipe.
- If you have big hands, see if you can get someone with smaller hands to help you put the O-ring on - there's very little space.
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OP
OP
I have watched your video plus I found another one where the camera is on a closeup of the whole job. I'm pretty sure that with a patience and and a moderate amount of swearing I can get it done. I only wish I could get the bike up in the air. I have issues with getting up and down off the floor. Knees going bad.
BTW it seems that Honda has this same tube and o-ring setup on many of their V-twins
JQL
Growing old disgracefully
Ah knees! Don't talk to me about knees or hips or back or wrists for that matter.
I've got to the age that whenever I work on the bikes I spend two days recovering with ice packs and knee and wrist braces...I placed a carpet runner (strip of carpet about 2½' x 9') next to the bike and had some knee pads from the local Home Improvement Store (DIY Shop). That made the job a little more bearable.
ST1100Y
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JQL
Growing old disgracefully
Even with "big paws" that's probably not necessary. Just the seat and side covers. Make a longer hook...Next week's episode: how to adjust the valve clearances through the exhaust...
Having big paws I'd rather access this from the top... seat, side covers, infills, tank, air-box and throttle bodies off...
ST1100Y
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OP
OP
my fuel tank is full. Does anyone believe the cap will hold in the fuel while I change an air filter? Also...can i get away with the Roadkill brake cleaner detail on my engine without damaging the finish?
I wan to do the Freiberger/Dulcich technique and clean my motor with brake cleaner unless it will damage the finish on my engine block
I wan to do the Freiberger/Dulcich technique and clean my motor with brake cleaner unless it will damage the finish on my engine block
My favorite show on television.
OP
OP
Something is bugging me: I bought the o-rings from the drawings on Partzilla and it is
91310-MB0-003
But in the two videos where I have seen people do the same job they are using an o-ring designated
91312-KE8-003
Is it possible they are the same o-ring just in a different application on the bike?
ST1100Y
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There is a superseded P/N, but the current SP/N is 91310-KE8-003...
the 91312-KE8-003 is for the chromed steel pipes...
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www.cmsnl.com
Ron Hudson
Site Supporter
Not viewed the video, but these are different size O Rings and not interchangeable #8 and #9 as listed
JQL
Growing old disgracefully
Provided the size is: 21.6X2mm then you've got the correct ones.
Either part number: 91310MB0003 or part number: 91310KE8003 will fit. Part number: 91310KE8003 is the new one but they are both the same size.
Probably from different manufacturers hence the change in part number - supposition on my part.
Either part number: 91310MB0003 or part number: 91310KE8003 will fit. Part number: 91310KE8003 is the new one but they are both the same size.
Probably from different manufacturers hence the change in part number - supposition on my part.
OP
OP
OK based on the dims I should be OK. But if you look at the drawing the KE08 is listed as another part in a different location
I have changed my air filter and put the tank and handlebars back on
Tomorrow morning a I will drain the system and make the repair, then do the flush ( I cant do the flush first, as one of the o-rings has given way).
Once the o-ring repair is sorted then i will do the flush and install the new thermostat and cover and radiator hose
I have changed my air filter and put the tank and handlebars back on
Tomorrow morning a I will drain the system and make the repair, then do the flush ( I cant do the flush first, as one of the o-rings has given way).
Once the o-ring repair is sorted then i will do the flush and install the new thermostat and cover and radiator hose