Dead Instument Panel on NT

lowriderrjw

Guest
I just completed performing the 600 mile valve clearance check myself. All the necessary components to complete the job came apart and went back together without an issue. The bike fired up and ran fine. Problem is, my instrument panel is dead. No speedo, tach, or neutral light. The hi beam light works though. When I turn the ignition key the speedo and tach do not cycle as they normally do. During test ride the bike operated as normal though. I don't recall unplugging anything for the instrument panel during disassembly however I'm guessing that when I put everything back together, I must have missed plugging something back in. Does anyone know what I may have missed?
 
Not even a clue. Sounds like it could be one harness connector. I'm assuming that you can hear the fuel pump doing it's thing when you turn the key on. If you couldn't, I"m guessing that the bike wouldn't run.
 
Did you inadvertently pull on the speedometer 20P connector? Try reseating that connector. Back side of the gauges. I have had the plug on my Wee Strom not seat properly. Also if it was loose to begin with it could have come undone, or be cockeyed. Also disconnect the battery wait a min or so and then reconnect. You, of course will have to reset the clock.

Also check the fuse. 10 amp do the turn signels work, If yes then the fuse is good.
 
According to the Service Manual there is a correlation between the speedo and the VS (vehicle speed sensor) sensor. It is under the left crankcase cover. It is a 3P connector. Did you forget to plug this back in? Although looking at the Manual there should have been no reason to unplug it.
 
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I would first check the fuses. It is possible you pinched a wire and grounded it witch would blow the fuse.
Also possible wire damage to the ground witch would not blow the fuse but would keep the instruments from working.

Brad
 
Yep, was the 10 amp fuse that Chuck suggested checking. I realized what happened after thinking about it more. I had taken off a set of running lights following the valve clearance check. I inadvertantly left the unprotected positive lead hanging, which subsequently shorted out on the frame and blew the instrument panel/turn signal fuse. I replaced it and the NT is good to go. Thanks for the suggestions all!
 
BTDT, and that's why for some years I like using bullet connectors and making sure the positive feed is ALWAYS the female connector.
 
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