Electrical accessory power hub

[Builtdesign]

Since I've never had many accessories before I would like some advice on getting the right power hub (fuse box) for the NT and my needs.

The accessories that I plan to have and currently have are:
-Denali D2D 1.7amps/20W
-Aerostich Warm Wrap Grips 1.6amps/22W
-Cell phone charger (not sure how much it draws)
-Hyper-lite 3way (almost no amp draw)
-Ear Cannon Air Horn 18amps

So here is what I've seen so far...

FZ-1 Fuzebox
Seems like the most common and trusted. 6 circuits 10amp ea., 30amp total. Choose between constant or switched.

Twisted Throttle Powerhub
Made by Fuzebox with T.T. name on it (not sure between the difference of this and the above option) 6 circuits 10amp ea., 30amp total. Choose between constant or switched.

http://www.aerostich.com/auxiliary-power-fused-panel.html
Pro: 8 circuit, 60 amp total.
Con: no Posi-tap option, limited choose for constant or switched circuit.

The Fuzebox seems like the obvious choice, but the option of being able to expand to 8 circuits is nice. I have not seen anything that will accommodate the 18 amp draw from the air horn (all I've seen is max 10amp per circuit). Looking for any knowledge, advice, or other options on this matter, thanks!

P.s. does anyone know what the most *efficient way to charge a cell phone on the bike is? I.e. using Std 12v socket or a 12v power inverter

*Efficient as in having enough power to run google maps and pandora at the same time and keep battery from dropping. This is happening with a regular 12v outlet and my car charger - slowly drains the battery.

 

[RedLdr1]

The accessories that I plan to have and currently have are: Hyper-lite 3way (almost no amp draw)

These do not need a fuse position as they are designed to be powered off your brake and turn signal light power feeds... As you stated they are a very low load.

I have not seen anything that will accommodate the 18 amp draw from the air horn (all I've seen is max 10amp per circuit).

I don't think you will find any constant / switched secondary fuse box, like the FZ-1, that will handle your air horn's 18A draw. Plus it is not a good idea to run any first line safety equipment, like a horn, through a a secondary fuse box. The reason is any problem with the secondary fuse box takes out that safety device...

As for which way to go I highly recommend the FZ-1

 

[Builtdesign]

Thank you, very informative!

 

[Builtdesign]

and put it back into the faring pocket.

I have my phone on a RAM mount so I can see my google maps as I ride, so the screen is on (highest brightness) and probably uses more juice that way.

Btw I had mine stored in the pocket a couple times in the summer and it caused my phone to shut down because it over heated. Does your BBerry ever get hot in there?

 

[rcase13]

I noticed my phone does not charge well in the left pocket where I installed my power outlet. I think it is due to the heat build up in there. Thinking about lining the outside of the pocket with heat insulating tape of some kind. Thoughts? If that doesn't work I might just install another power outlet in one of the panniers.

As far as the fuse block goes you can save a lot of money and just use a standard automotive 12v relay and a standard fuse block Total cost is less that $20 and can handle far more current than any of the pre-made fuse blocks on the market. But I agree with others you should wire the horns straight to the battery through a standard 12v relay that is triggered off the factory horn wiring. The horns probably came with this setup anyway. Don't use the factory horn wiring to directly power the horns as the factory wiring is probably not designed to run 18 amp horns!

 

[RedLdr1]

As far as the fuse block goes you can save a lot of money and just use a standard automotive 12v relay and a standard fuse block Total cost is less that $20 and can handle far more current than any of the pre-made fuse blocks on the market.

I agree with you on the savings, and current capacity, but you cannot mix switched and unswitched devices on a standard fuse block. You would need two relays and two fuse blocks if you need to have both power sources. The FZ-1 just makes it a lot simpler for folks nervous about doing their own wiring.

Don't use the factory horn wiring to directly power the horns as the factory wiring is probably not designed to run 18 amp horns!

It isn't and neither is the Horn button...I have seen them melt the contacts... In the case of the Air Cannon I highly recommend anyone not comfortable with DIY wiring also buy the Plug-n-Play wiring harness with the relay they offer. For those who want to do their own wiring a relay can be had at most automotive stores for under $10.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

Since I've never had many accessories before I would like some advice on getting the right power hub (fuse box) for the NT and my needs.

The accessories that I plan to have and currently have are:
-Denali D2D 1.7amps/20W
-Aerostich Warm Wrap Grips 1.6amps/22W
-Cell phone charger (not sure how much it draws)
-Hyper-lite 3way (almost no amp draw)
-Ear Cannon Air Horn 18amps

So here is what I've seen so far...

...
The Fuzebox seems like the obvious choice, but the option of being able to expand to 8 circuits is nice. I have not seen anything that will accommodate the 18 amp draw from the air horn (all I've seen is max 10amp per circuit). Looking for any knowledge, advice, or other options on this matter, thanks!

Have a look at the Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse panel. It will handle the 18a air horns. You can wire it up with a relay if you want some unswitched circuits.

The FZ-1 is nice for small draw items but it is limited in its capacity as you see (10amp max per circuit). I installed the PC-8 on my wife's NT. Here's the thread with pics. I don't see the fuse panel being any more susceptible to failure than the relay that you'll have to run your air horns through if you use the OEM horn switch. Wouldn't worry about that. Just wire up the system correctly and you'll have zero problems.