Igo
Guest
This is a good thing. Mine get the fix Saturday morning.
Engine rough idling when stopped
- Thread starter nccmpig
- Start date
Igo
Guest
Spent 30 minutes at the dealer this morning. Got new plug caps, no charge, and I was on my way. Runs just fine.
elizilla
Guest
I guess I'm a slower wrench than I thought. 
Igo
Guest
Well when I showed Honda that Honda had a service bulletin, the service writer told me he had to do the red NT that's been sitting there for a year as well. He told me today that it took them over an hour to do it then he told me the mechanic that did that one said the second one, mine, was much easier. Probably would have taken me 3 hours as I don't know where to start with the panels.
Igo
Guest
That would be nice. Next Saturday I have to string PowerLet cables from the battery to the front somewhere.
Igo
Guest
Did you come in through the glove box? Mine are just cables as I don't have the popular risers with the outlet on mine. All my connections are going to be in the right fairing pocket.
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bicyclist
Guest
Word of advice: if you put them in the pocket, mount them down low or they'll interfere with getting the pocket in and out.
Igo
Guest
I hope to come in from underneath and only have an SAE extension end living full time in the pocket. Your advice make me caution that I leave enough slop under the box to be able to pull the box without it hanging up on the cable like a fish on a line.
Igo
Guest
Good advice sir.
elizilla
Guest
But if it's just surface water, a few drops, and there are drain holes, water will find its way out again.
On the V-Strom I installed a complete exposed bus-bar type thing for power, velcroed to the inside of the fairing where I could see it from the rider's seat. I had a fuse upstream between it and the battery, and smaller fuses downstream between it and my devices. I never blew a fuse on either side, and the devices attached to it never gave me a lick of trouble. All the care I took was to make sure there was no place for the water to pool, that it couldn't touch anything that would be a short, and I sprayed it with De-Oxit every time I had it out, to keep it from corroding. After five years it was still good as new. I suspect it would corrode over ten or twenty years if not maintained, but with maintenance it was fine.
And look at the wiring harness in a stock bike. Water can get into most of the connectors. But the problem isn't the water - it's the corrosion.
On the V-Strom I installed a complete exposed bus-bar type thing for power, velcroed to the inside of the fairing where I could see it from the rider's seat. I had a fuse upstream between it and the battery, and smaller fuses downstream between it and my devices. I never blew a fuse on either side, and the devices attached to it never gave me a lick of trouble. All the care I took was to make sure there was no place for the water to pool, that it couldn't touch anything that would be a short, and I sprayed it with De-Oxit every time I had it out, to keep it from corroding. After five years it was still good as new. I suspect it would corrode over ten or twenty years if not maintained, but with maintenance it was fine.
And look at the wiring harness in a stock bike. Water can get into most of the connectors. But the problem isn't the water - it's the corrosion.
Igo
Guest
I restore antique radios and use De Oxit regularly. On aluminum connectors, sometimes that is all it takes to revive and 70 year old radio.