Probably not worse, just different. The valve check is more cerebral mad scientist.
Greasing the clutch splines would likely be less thinking, more grunting.
Et tu, Ural?
- Thread starter mikesim
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Greasing the clutch splines would likely be less thinking, more grunting.
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mikesim
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My cerebra ain't what it used to be although my grunting is improving......<sigh>......
Mike
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If you keep climbing in and out of that Miata....it'll only get better!
DirtFlier
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My opinion is that one task is far worse than the other. On the NT, as the miles roll up the need for a valve clearance check become far less frequent. On the Beemer, the need to grease the splines never goes away with miles.
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mikesim
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Funny you should mention that..... My plan has been to have something fun to ride/drive when I am no longer able to ride a motorcycle, hence the Miata. Now, I wondering what I'm going to get when I can no longer crawl in and out of the Miata! A mobility scooter!!?? I wonder what kind of farkles they have for those puppies?
Mike
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- near Harrow, Ontario Canada
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Well Mike, something like this might work OK and be fun....
A buddy of mine had an older model Ural without the sidecar. It had a 'mystery' lever at the back of the transmission. He sent away for an owner's manual and found that the lever had two positions, normal and "for plowing".
Having owned a 1994 R100GSPD for eight years, and 46000 miles. Road it to Inuvik North West Territories, also to Copper Canyon Mexico, all over the Colorado Back Country, all around the Hill Country of Texas and into the Swamps of Arkansas. Also did the Big Dog Ride and the February Elephant Ride over Guanella Pass before it was paved, here in Colorado. All I can say is that it was a Love /Hate relationship. Yes easy to work on , and it was a good thing too. Replaced the rear end, drive shaft, diode board, rebuilt the carbs (was never able to get them to stay synced. Valves never stayed adjusted for very long. And to lube the transmission spline. Disconnect the swing arm from the frame Take out the main transmission bolts that mate it to the engine, Install longer bolts and slide the the complete assy (trans, swing arm, drive shaft and rear drive, back on the longer bolts.) about three inches. Reach in with a tooth brush on a stick and lube the main shaft with Honda Molly 60. Only had to do that twice. I got some stories I could tell.
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Coyote Chris
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I think there is something in the FJR manual about taking the rear suspension completely appart to lube it every so often. Trash engineering forced by some bean counter. The Connie had zerk fittings, like any proper suspension should have. My 305 Yamaha two cycle had drain bolts for the forks, too.
One of the nice things about being old is that you dont have to worry about the shims or taking the suspension appart every so often. My bikes will all outlive me and someone else can worry about that stuff!
DirtFlier
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From personal experience, the functionality of fork drain bolts is way overrated. They were almost always 6 mm thread so getting the old goop to come out of that hole took days and days and days... At the end of your patience, you reinstalled the drain bolt but you'd only drained about 60%-70% of the old fork oil plus the bottom of the fork was still filled with goop.
Chuck's comment about using longer guide bolts for the Beemer greasing is much like what I did with a drag racing car I had as a kid. Pulling the tranny out was easy but getting it back in place there was always danger of bending the clutch hub - I was under the tranny and holding it up! I used four long bolts and cut off the bolt heads, then I could get the tranny aligned properly before the mainshaft got anywhere near the clutch hub.
Chuck's comment about using longer guide bolts for the Beemer greasing is much like what I did with a drag racing car I had as a kid. Pulling the tranny out was easy but getting it back in place there was always danger of bending the clutch hub - I was under the tranny and holding it up! I used four long bolts and cut off the bolt heads, then I could get the tranny aligned properly before the mainshaft got anywhere near the clutch hub.