Extracting an Extractor from a Sheared Bolt!

[Herb]

I tried extracting my first sheared bolt but only succeeded in shearing off the extractor as well. I'm throwing in the towell on this one and want professional help. Do I just take this to motorcycle shop or can some other local shop handle this task?

 

[RedLdr1]

Do I just take this to motorcycle shop or can some other local shop handle this task?

Depending on where the bolt is any decent machine shop should be able to handle it... Can you remove the part and carry it in to a shop?

 

[Bear]

Most small auto repair shops can probably help.

There is a product available in Plumbing Supply stores called "Free All" A dab of that on any bolt will free it up. Do not get it on plastic or painted surfaces. A well ventilated area is also recommended or you will get very stoned.

 

[Herb]

Depending on where the bolt is any decent machine shop should be able to handle it... Can you remove the part and carry it in to a shop?

Yes, I can remove and take to a shop. Where do look in yellow pages. "machine shop" ?

 

[RedLdr1]

Where do look in yellow pages. "machine shop" ?

That is where I'd start....

 

[ARKNT]

Herb I would start in yellow pages. If you don't have any luck you might ask at a good auto parts store for a recomendation. The screw extractors are very hard (kind of like taps) so drilling one is not easy.

Good luck
Brad

 

[Nomad]

Herb,
If you’ve really given-up, you’ve received plenty advice on how to find a machine shop. But, if you want to try again, here’s what I’d suggest:
1. If the extractor broke-off flush with the bolt (ie., there is nothing left to grab), I would use a thin penetrating oil (like Liquid Wrench) between the extractor and the bolt (to remove the extractor). Once the oil had time to penetrate, I’d take a Dremel tool and cut a slot in the extractor (screw driver slot). Then I’d take a manual impact wrench (hand hammered) and try to back-out the extractor by putting a straight blade in the slot you cut. If the extractor is too deep that you cannot cut a slot, I’d use a punch and hammer to reverse thread/tap-out the extractor. Note: extractors are reverse threaded, so you will need to reverse the reverse direction to back it out).
2. If you successfully remove the extractor, you have four options (and combinations thereof) to remove the bolt: (a) brute force with another, larger extractor, (b) drill-out the bolt, (c) use a solvent on the thread sealer which secures the bolt, or (d) heat the joint to melt the sealant and provide a hot/cold differential between the bolt and the holding piece. Blue Loctite should not need solvent or heat, so I suspect the breakage of the extractor indicated the bolt was locked with Red Loctite or similar factory sealant. I believe Red Loctite and the factory thread sealer are temperature sensitive and can be softened with heat. I haven’t used the plumbing product Sailariel suggested, but if it eats plastic, it may soften the thread sealant. I wish you luck. Note: some permanent thread sealants are designed to withstand high temperatures.

 

[karl]

Yes, I can remove and take to a shop. Where do look in yellow pages. "machine shop" ?

or try the shop that welded your exhaust they may be able to weld a spud on to get it out. The "easy out" is real hard and brittle and a PITA to drill now. Good luck on the latest adventure.

 

[Herb]

I was back on the road today. Took it to a shop and they got it done. No idea how. It was pricey..... $150 in cash, but I'm back riding. Felt good. Thanks.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Wow! What bolt had you sheared?

 

[Herb]

Wow! What bolt had you sheared?

Ah.... I'd been avoiding this topic. Remember when I asked about brake pad wear? I discovered that my right front pads were wearing out much quicker that left side! Further investigation revealed that my right disk was bent..... (here's my theory on that- while changing the front tire and operating my homemade wooden bead breaker with the front wheel resting on wood blocks to protect the brake disk I vaguely remember one block slipping up under the disk as I applied pressure!?!. What ever the cause, it had to be changed so I ordered a new disk and was taking off the old and met a very resistant bolt and impatiently torqued off the head and then tried to extract it myself and.... torqued the extractor. Given the importance of this bolt I knew I needed an expert.

I found a shop and had my wife take it there without getting an estimate... Oh, well it's just money and I'm back riding. Yes, I do realize that some of my efforts to do things myself end up costing me more money by mistakes but I do enjoy doing it myself and as you have pointed out the "experts" make their own mistakes.

 

[karl]

Herb Glad to hear you are back in the saddle again.

 

[RedLdr1]

Yes, I do realize that some of my efforts to do things myself end up costing me more money by mistakes but I do enjoy doing it myself and as you have pointed out the "experts" make their own mistakes.

I have learned as much, if not more, from my "deviations from approved practices" and "field expedient repair methods" attempts than I would have ever learned if I didn't just jump in... My wife has heard me say "There is nothing wrong that a trip to Sears for more tools can't fix..." more than once...sometimes more than once per day! She has also seen me looking for my AAA card to have my Corvette towed in to my mechanic buddies garage to "unfix" it...:rolleyes1: It is all a learning experience and "fun" in it's own perverse way...

 

[ARKNT]

Herb,
I have had the wheels want to fall off blocks when changing stubborn tires. The disks are very vulnerable.
Here is a link to what I use now:
http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/album.php?albumid=113

Mine is attached to the floor and I have a long steel arm to break the beads with. The wheel lays flat and the brake disk goes down into the hole. It is much more secure than blocks because it is one piece. If you don't have the room for a stand you could make a portable platform that was 4-5 inches tall to give clearance for the disks and when tire changes are done it wouldn't take up much space at all.

Don't worry about having trouble once in a while. I have no proof but I'm sure the mech at Honda shop cross threaded the access cover on my left engine side case while doing 600 mile valve clearance checks. I found that one when I did the 2nd valve inspect. It cost me a left side engine cover.
There is still a lot to be gained by doing your own service. Everyone just needs to find what they will work on and want they will pay to get done.

Glad you are back on the road agian,
Brad

 

[Herb]

Brad,

Your set up with be too big but I clearly need some gizmo to protect the disks. What you have done, gives me some ideas. Don't want to bend another disk! thanks.

Herb