mikesim
Site Supporter
It takes two, that's why the Speedbleeders simplify the process. They are great!
Mike
Finally Bled My Brakes
- Thread starter Herb
- Start date
Mike
The manual calls for DOT-4 fluid. My manual for my CBR250 specifies DOT-3 or DOT-4, so I assume they are interchangeable. But the fluid I got at Wally-Mart states synthetic DOT-3. Is it OK to put the DOT-3 in the system which had DOT-4, and what is the significance of "synthetic?"
I would use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (but NOT DOT 5; that's a different creature.)
I'm a new NT owner of only a few months. So it still has what it came with.
BUT in my other motorcycles. I use either Motul RBF600 ( a DOT 4 fluid) or Motul 5.1
The RBF600 has a higher than normal boiling point for a DOT 4. But the 5.1 appears to last longer.
So RBF600 is used in my race bike and 5.1 used in my street bike.
When time to change NT's fluid; it will most likely be Motul 5.1
The following may be helpful:
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=difference+between+brake+fluids&t=ffsb
http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/resources/faq/difference-between-dot4-and-dot51-brake-fluid/
http://www.differencebetween.net/object/auto-object/difference-between-dot3-and-dot4-brake-fluid/
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-parts/types-of-brake-fluid1.htm
--ET
I'd bet you a quarter that your "DOT-3" brake fluid is actually DOT-4 fluid with a different label. It's not really cost-effective for the manufacturer to run different processes. But if there's no super urgency, I'd buy a better brand of fluid anyway. The ATE Type 200, for example.
All brake fluids are synthetic. I don't think you can buy/find petroleum or conventional based brake fluid anymore. You can use either DOT3 or DOT4 in the system with no problem (per the manual). Unless you are racing or abusing the brakes, your biggest enemy is moisture not heat. So change the fluid often (at least every 2 years) and you should be good to go with any of the glycol based fluids (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1).
Recycleken
Guest
Herb,
I'm going to bleed my brakes this week. On the left caliper, which piston is for the rear and which is for the front? After reviewing the brake parts diagram, it seems the top piston is for the rear brake...Thanks,
I'm going to bleed my brakes this week. On the left caliper, which piston is for the rear and which is for the front? After reviewing the brake parts diagram, it seems the top piston is for the rear brake...Thanks,
It can be needed on bikes. When I bought a used KLX250 that never slept inside, the fluid was horrible. It was kind of chunky and it wouldn't come out the bleed valve at first.
Bike brakes are more exposed to the elements than cars & trucks, don't know if that is the reason or the only reason. Also bikes have a smaller volume so probably cannot absorb much water without issues.
Brad
Bike brakes are more exposed to the elements than cars & trucks, don't know if that is the reason or the only reason. Also bikes have a smaller volume so probably cannot absorb much water without issues.
Brad
Mellow
Admin
your bike brake lines are all very close to the engine/frame areas that retain the most heat... in a car, the line, even under the hood, aren't that close to the engine at all.
My 2004 Vibe gets done every 2-3 years. It goes to the mechanic (because I'm too damned lazy to work on my car...hahaha) and every drop of fluid gets swapped out. Oil gets done a bit more often, though.
Tonight's mini maintenance session was brake fluid change on the CBR250, the CB500X and the NC700. Tomorrow is a day off, and I'll do the pair of NT's and the pair of baby GS's. yay. brake bleeds are my favorite.....~not~
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
[...your bike brake lines are all very close to the engine/frame areas that retain the most heat...Mellow]
+1 to Mellow.
My '97 PC800 (gone but not forgotten) had a hydraulic clutch and I noticed the brake fluid for the clutch would discolor much faster than the fluid for the front brakes. The slave cylinder was attached to the engine so it was continually hot when the engine was running.
ps. Brake fuild is cheap so one of my regular winter chores is to drain the old fluid, replace with new fluid, and bleed the system.
+1 to Mellow.
My '97 PC800 (gone but not forgotten
) had a hydraulic clutch and I noticed the brake fluid for the clutch would discolor much faster than the fluid for the front brakes. The slave cylinder was attached to the engine so it was continually hot when the engine was running.ps. Brake fuild is cheap so one of my regular winter chores is to drain the old fluid, replace with new fluid, and bleed the system.
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Anybody else have much trouble getting their brake fluid flushed and bled? A few weeks back I flushed mine, front and rear. The rear has been fine but the front has given me some issues until a few days ago. I have never had issues before.
Mine is non-ABS so no modulator or anything. I use the old school method of squeezing the lever, open bleed valve, close valve, release lever, and repeat. It seemed to be fine until the bike sat unused for about 3 days, then the lever got spongy and would almost come back to the handlebar. If I exercised it several times it would then pump up hard and be good for another 3 days or so. So after the pull got soft I rebled the fronts. I probably bled them 3-4 times after finding the lever soft 3 days later again. I considered a remote possibility may be a leak at the bleed valve so I inspected the bleeder seating surface but it looked OK.
Originally I had used a different (newer, sealed) container of fluid (all DOT 4) on the front brakes so I wondered if I got a bad bottle of fluid that had air entrained in it or something. Seemed remote but I bought a new bottle of fluid, flushed, bled the front brakes and waited to see results.
That was 3 days ago and the brakes are still good with a hard lever. I know the odds are I got air in the system while flushing originally but It was pretty strange that it would be OK then get soft and repeat itself. I haven’t ever had this happen before. Anyway I think it is good now but wondered if anyone else has had a hard time with them. It looks like most of you use speedbleeders or a pump instead of old school.
Brad
Mine is non-ABS so no modulator or anything. I use the old school method of squeezing the lever, open bleed valve, close valve, release lever, and repeat. It seemed to be fine until the bike sat unused for about 3 days, then the lever got spongy and would almost come back to the handlebar. If I exercised it several times it would then pump up hard and be good for another 3 days or so. So after the pull got soft I rebled the fronts. I probably bled them 3-4 times after finding the lever soft 3 days later again. I considered a remote possibility may be a leak at the bleed valve so I inspected the bleeder seating surface but it looked OK.
Originally I had used a different (newer, sealed) container of fluid (all DOT 4) on the front brakes so I wondered if I got a bad bottle of fluid that had air entrained in it or something. Seemed remote but I bought a new bottle of fluid, flushed, bled the front brakes and waited to see results.
That was 3 days ago and the brakes are still good with a hard lever. I know the odds are I got air in the system while flushing originally but It was pretty strange that it would be OK then get soft and repeat itself. I haven’t ever had this happen before. Anyway I think it is good now but wondered if anyone else has had a hard time with them. It looks like most of you use speedbleeders or a pump instead of old school.
Brad
+1 Mike.
I use speed bleeders just because it makes it easier to accomplish the bleeding process without an assistant. In my case, have discovered that it is quite easy to drain the reservoir, on the front, to the point of sucking in air during the process. Not so easy to remove the air.
I use speed bleeders just because it makes it easier to accomplish the bleeding process without an assistant. In my case, have discovered that it is quite easy to drain the reservoir, on the front, to the point of sucking in air during the process. Not so easy to remove the air.