First Brake Job

[john40]

I recently replaced the brake pads on my NT. This is the easiest brake job I have ever done and I am impressed with the engineering of these brakes. I first compressed the pistons (a lever for the rear and a wood workers clamp for the both front at the same time) , removed the pin and the pads fell to the ground. Until I read the shop manual I thought I would have to remove the calibers. I know many of you have replaced your brakes, but I just had to express my thoughts.
John

 

[Chucksklrst]

Just some ideas to consider. Make sure you clean the pistons before you compress them back into the caliper. Half inch wide strips of cloth and some brake fluid works good. I do remove the calipers off the disk, but leaving the brake lines attached. This gives me room to get in and clean the pistons. When that is done I then push the pistons back into the caliber. Making sure that the fluid reservoir has room for the fluid. Also at each pad change it would not be a bad idea to bleed the old fluid out and replace with new brake fluid. If you are just doing a quick pad replacement in the field, it can be done, as you said, with out removing the caliper. Taking the time to clean the pistons before they are pushed back into the calipers will greatly lengthen the life span of the piston seals in the calibers. Never had to rebuild a caliper in all the years that I have done my brake maintenance in this manner. Glad you got your pads changed with out any problems. Having a table lift greatly increases the enjoyment of doing one's own maintenance.

 

[Chucksklrst]

Being on the brake pad subject, I thought I would re post this. It might help. Checking-Brake-Pads-for-wear http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/showthread.php?3861-Checking-Brake-Pads-for-wear&highlight=

 

[RedNigel]

did you change the rear pads without removing the caliper?

 

[john40]

did you change the rear pads without removing the caliper?

RedNigel-Yes, they slid out the back.
John

 

[john40]

Just some ideas to consider. Make sure you clean the pistons before you compress them back into the caliper. Half inch wide strips of cloth and some brake fluid works good. I do remove the calipers off the disk, but leaving the brake lines attached. This gives me room to get in and clean the pistons. When that is done I then push the pistons back into the caliber. Making sure that the fluid reservoir has room for the fluid. Also at each pad change it would not be a bad idea to bleed the old fluid out and replace with new brake fluid. If you are just doing a quick pad replacement in the field, it can be done, as you said, with out removing the caliper. Taking the time to clean the pistons before they are pushed back into the calipers will greatly lengthen the life span of the piston seals in the calibers. Never had to rebuild a caliper in all the years that I have done my brake maintenance in this manner. Glad you got your pads changed with out any problems. Having a table lift greatly increases the enjoyment of doing one's own maintenance.

Chucksklst-Thanks for the tips.
John

 

[DirtFlier]

+1 on cleaning the exposed portions of the pistons before pushing them back and also removing some fluid from the reservoir to prevent overflows.

Pushing the pistons into the caliper is sort of reverse brake bleed but you're using old fluid. I've noticed that the brake lever is extra-firm after doing this, similar to having just bled the brakes.

Whenever I have to remove a wheel to fit a new tire, I always drive a wooden shim into the caliper to spread the pads slightly, making it much easier to fit the caliper over the disc. These inexpensive shims are sold at places like Lowe's or Home Depot and used by carpenters to level/square a window or door.

 

[seagrass]

If you have an ABS system you should NEVER push the fluid back towards the reservoir when pushing the pads back in. The correct procedure is to open the bleed nipple and release the fluid to a container while pushing the pads back in.

If you push the fluid back towards the reservoir any contaminants in the brake lines can cause a blockage in the ABS unit and this is NOT covered under any warranty.

Seagrass

 

[Gizmo]

If you have an ABS system you should NEVER push the fluid back towards the reservoir when pushing the pads back in. The correct procedure is to open the bleed nipple and release the fluid to a container while pushing the pads back in.

If you push the fluid back towards the reservoir any contaminants in the brake lines can cause a blockage in the ABS unit and this is NOT covered under any warranty.

Seagrass

DEFINITELY makes sense ..... THANKS!!

 

[DirtFlier]

Yes, it makes sense. My bike has been out of warranty since Dec 2010 and it gets a flush/bleed every winter (brake fluid is cheap!) so contamination may not be a problem on my bike. I'm pushing back the pistons only a tiny amount, just enough to make it easier to slip the caliper over the disc.

 

[john40]

If you have an ABS system you should NEVER push the fluid back towards the reservoir when pushing the pads back in. The correct procedure is to open the bleed nipple and release the fluid to a container while pushing the pads back in.

If you push the fluid back towards the reservoir any contaminants in the brake lines can cause a blockage in the ABS unit and this is NOT covered under any warranty.

Seagrass

This seems to be a recurring argument for all brake systems, not only ABS, and I'm neither pro nor con. When I read them my thought is this. How do contaminants enter a closed hydraulic system? If the brake fluid is contaminated by heat then that would make sense. The last time I did the brakes on my truck I used the bleed nipple method and it worked quite well.
John

 

[ARKNT]

Brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4) likes to absorb moisture. Some can enter the reservour as the pads wear and fluid is pushed into the lines and caliper. I believe more moisture enters down at the caliper seals. They are exposed to road spray and such. This is a slow process but with differential heating of the calipers and pistons a small amout of moisture can slowly enter.
Flushing the brake fluid is pretty important but easy to overlook. It also depends on where you store the bike and riding conditions. My 2006 KLX 250 had brake fluid that had turned semi-solid when I bought it (chunky). It had never seen a garage until I bought it. It took a little bit to get any fluid out the bleed ports until I got it broke loose.

Brad

 

[seagrass]

Contaminants come from within the "sealed" hydraulic system.

Things like small rubber flecks from the brake hoses or rubber seals and as someone else has said, the fluid absorbs moisture (it is hygroscopic) and the moisture helps to cause brake components to fail prematurely. Changing your brake fluid every 3 years or so is a recommended maintenance procedure.

There are service advisories out for mechanics workshops and dealers AND there is industry traing provided (al least in Australia) that advises to clamp the brake hoses when working on the brake system to prevent contaminants entering the ABS system.

 

[john40]

Brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4) likes to absorb moisture. Some can enter the reservour as the pads wear and fluid is pushed into the lines and caliper. I believe more moisture enters down at the caliper seals. They are exposed to road spray and such. This is a slow process but with differential heating of the calipers and pistons a small amout of moisture can slowly enter.
Flushing the brake fluid is pretty important but easy to overlook. It also depends on where you store the bike and riding conditions. My 2006 KLX 250 had brake fluid that had turned semi-solid when I bought it (chunky). It had never seen a garage until I bought it. It took a little bit to get any fluid out the bleed ports until I got it broke loose.

Brad

Brad-I hadn't considered the moisture aspect of contaminates, makes sense.
John