Handlebar Risers

DirtFlier

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I've now gone through the progression of stock for 6 months, MCL 1" riders for 18 months, and SW-Moto 1" up-1" back risers for another 12 months. And yes, I could always feel some high frequency vibration in the grips which I changed to Oury almost immediately. For about the past year or so I've been fascinated by the Rox 2" risers with vibration damping rubber inserts, made primarily for ADV bikes. Recently, when they told me they were now available in black, I jumped at the chance.

If you punch "Rox Risers" into websearch their site will come up and you can see the 2" riser with rubber dampers. Each side in made in two pieces with a rubber damper between them that is secured by a 10 mm bolt and locknut. This bolt makes the damping adjustable although I've yet to do anything with that capability.

The lower piece has a solid alum 7/8" stub about 1" long that clamps into the original handlebar bar clamps. The stub allows the riser to be moved into a near infinite choice of positions, fore and aft, so you can adjust the center of the bar to be closer or further from you, plus you still have adjustment of the bar itself. The upper piece has the handle bar clamps. With the piece on the bench, I measured 2-3/8" center-to-center distance rather than the 2" advertised.

Most (all?) of the other risers lack this fore and aft capability since they are locked in place so you're stick with just one position for the center of the handlebar but you can still move the bar, up or down, to suit your preferences. Of course, doing it that way also effects grip angle which is critical for comfort.

I already had 2" longer Motion Pro throttle cables so they worked fine and in fact they now look better now as they were really 1" too long for my SW Moto risers. I also already have a Trans-Alp clutch cable which still works but is bowstring tight around the steering head plus exits the clutch lever perch at an angle (not straight) so although I've ridden it this way without any problems, I've order a 4" longer clutch cable ($40) from Motion Pro. Amazingly the brake hose still reaches after some careful wiggling and moving but to be safe, I'm getting a 6" hose extension from Helibar ($27), which is part of their NT kit. I'm still not sure how it will work because of the excessive length for my application. I did stop at Spiegler and talk to them about a custom brake hose and it would have cost me around $140 (brake hose + steel line) which was way more than I wanted to spend.

At rest, I can push down on the grips and see movement of the bars but while riding none of this is evident nor do I feel anything that would make me believe something in the steering was loose. Vibration at the grips is nil and best of all, the ergos are finally comfy for me so I'm able to sit on the widest part of the seat without having to lean forward or have my elbows locked. I'm a towering 5'6" just for reference. :)

I did look seriously at the Helibar kit and it's actually a great bargain for $299 as everything is figured out for you plus all the necessary hoses and cables are included and also mounts for a RAM ball and Powerlet. My only complaint with the Helibar kit was the total upright seating position which I didn't want. A lot of you riders have the Helibar kit and love it so that's great!
 
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Houston, TX
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I also already have a Trans-Alp clutch cable which still works but is bowstring tight around the steering head plus exits the clutch lever perch at an angle (not straight) so although I've ridden it this way without any problems
This was th eproblem I had with the stock clutch cable on a 1" riser. The cable will wear quickly where that "bind" is exiting the clutch lever.
 

U20417

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For what its worth I added risers to my Vulcan Meanstreak which made the brake line to short. I had a hydraulic hose shop here in OKC extend it for me. Cost about $35. On the plus side it was exactly the length I wanted. On the down side I had fittings and the extension in the middle of the line.
 
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DirtFlier

DirtFlier

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[...The cable will wear quickly where that "bind" is exiting the clutch lever...Chuck 500]

Agree completely. The other factor is increased friction and I've noticed that my clutch pull has gotten stiffer with each version of risers I've fitted. It's still a light pull compared to many bikes but when my bike was new with standard rise & cables, the clutch pull was similar to that of a XR100 dirt bike!
 

Rob

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Aug 15, 2011
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Portsmouth, NH
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I have the 2" (i think?) rotating rox risers on the tiger explorer, as they were the only option other than sw-motech's which didn't look like it did much. i didn't spring for the vibration dampening version because of the cost, but it is good to hear an endorsement for them in case i ever change my mind. i do very much like that the kit itself rotates in addition to the actual bars. you can really dial in the angle that works for you.

no before/after/comparison pics?!
 
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Dec 14, 2010
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Tijeras, NM
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1984 Moto Guzzi T5
I think so. I have always been curious about them as well.

FWIW, I installed MCL risers on mine nearly from the start. The clutch cable was a bit tight and did exit the lever at a slight angle. The bike has over 28k on it now with no issues and when I inspected the cable last (at 25k?) there was no sign of any wear on the cable at the lever end. Not saying you won't have any problems, just that I did not. If I went up another inch in height I am sure there would have been issues. Key to clutch cable life is to keep some grease in the "pocket" of the lever so the cable can pivot freely.
 
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2013 FJR 1300
I also recently installed the Rox Risers. The ergos work out for me just fine not adding any pullback, just let them come straight up and then rotate the bars downward fot the right riding position for me. The vibration-damping works great. There is some low-frequency vibration that remains, but the amplitude is very minimal and doesn't seem to vary. High-frequency vibration is undetectable. I haven't used my Throttlemeister since I installed them.

A couple of things abut the installation:

It took a number of iterations to get the whole thing mounted so that the axis of the center of the bars was straight across the bike. It's possible to install such that one side or the other of the handlebar is closer to you than the other. I finally got it where I can detect no such imperfection, but it was a battle.

I haven't yet come up with a way to put a torque wrench to the main clamp without disassembling the Rox components. The bolts lie underneath the upper clamps. Ideally something like a Lycoming cylinder base nut wrench could be used, but I need it in 12 mm. For now I've just tighten them as tight as I can with a box wrench. Holding OK so far.
 
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Rich: Did you have to change any cabling from stock?
Oh, yes. I already had the Transalp clutch cable for use with my MCL riser. I installed the Helibar throttle cables (a bit of a pain, of course) and retained (so far) the stock front brake like. Because I didn't do any pullback, the Transalp cable and stock brake line are OK. I will probably replace them in the future as time allows.
 
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DirtFlier

DirtFlier

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[...It's possible to install such that one side or the other of the handlebar is closer to you than the other. I finally got it where I can detect no such imperfection, but it was a battle....]

It's more than POSSIBLE to have the handlebars crooked since the individual risers not only rotate fore-and-aft but the upper portion can turn on the rubber mounts. My first test ride, the bars were crooked. The big problem with using the bars to hold everything straight is that they're restricted by the cables and hoses so will battle you all the way. What I ended up doing was making two 7/8 X 1" alum plugs on my lathe and drilling them for 1/4" X 12" rod. The plugs get clamped into place by the holddown clamps, then I run the rod through the center so I can easily see if the mounts are crooked. Once I get it straight, I tighten all the lower bolts then remove the homemade fixture and mount the handlebars.
 
Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Messages
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77
Location
Prineville, OR, USA
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2013 FJR 1300
[...It's possible to install such that one side or the other of the handlebar is closer to you than the other. I finally got it where I can detect no such imperfection, but it was a battle....]

It's more than POSSIBLE to have the handlebars crooked since the individual risers not only rotate fore-and-aft but the upper portion can turn on the rubber mounts. My first test ride, the bars were crooked. The big problem with using the bars to hold everything straight is that they're restricted by the cables and hoses so will battle you all the way. What I ended up doing was making two 7/8 X 1" alum plugs on my lathe and drilling them for 1/4" X 12" rod. The plugs get clamped into place by the holddown clamps, then I run the rod through the center so I can easily see if the mounts are crooked. Once I get it straight, I tighten all the lower bolts then remove the homemade fixture and mount the handlebars.
You're absolutely right. Ah, if only I had a lathe.
 
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DirtFlier

DirtFlier

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I bought my 8" Austrian-made, Enco lathe from a widow who's husband had just passed. Although it was 10-12 years old at the time, he kept it in 100% showroom condition and even made a plastic case that kept it from getting dusty - like an inverted fish tank!

Prior to that I always went crazy looking for steel or alum sleeves or bushings at the hardware store that were never exactly what I wanted. Now I go out to the garage and make what I need. :)
 
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Having machine tools is a wonderful thing :)

The lathe and mill don't get used much, but, when I need them they are really handy to have around. I did downgrade my lathe from a 12x36 to a 7x12. The big one just took up too much room and I hate having to move it (almost 2000lb). And I use the little one a ton more than I did the big one.
 
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