Hard to start when motor warm; BUT only if parked for just the right amount of time.

[ett]

This is exactly why I always removed the RH saddlebag assembly for rear tire changes. I just knew what a PITA removing the muffler would be, i had no desire to dive into the big book of swear words
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Glad to find another NT rider who uses the same method as me to remove the rear wheel! The first time I did a rear tire swap, I did it by removing the muffler but it was still a lot of aggravation because of things I COULD NOT see, such as the caliper bracket and how it fits into the swingarm...plus I had to work on my back. With the RH saddlebag lid & body removed, everything is in front of you for easy access! At least for me, it's about 100% easy this way.

I never had to remove muffler or saddlebag for rear wheel/tire changes.
Only have to remove the two exhaust bolts near the right side foot pegs.
That allows the exhaust to swing down-n-out enough to change the rear wheel and change rear brakes.
Although I should note; I do not use a torque wrench during rear wheel installation. I just use ratcheting box-end wrenches and use the "good-enough" method of tightening.

I tried removing the right saddle bag ONCE to change rear brake pads without removing the rear wheel.
But I will never do it again. 'CAUSE I cracked the saddlebag while trying to remove it.
And until I find a way to weld that crack; I won't be able to install external latches when the saddlebag's stock internal latches fail.

 

[mikesim]

I never had to remove muffler or saddlebag for rear wheel/tire changes.
Only have to remove the two exhaust bolts near the right side foot pegs.
That allows the exhaust to swing down-n-out enough to change the rear wheel and change rear brakes.
Although I should note; I do not use a torque wrench during rear wheel installation. I just use ratcheting box-end wrenches and use the "good-enough" method of tightening.

I tried removing the right saddle bag ONCE to change rear brake pads without removing the rear wheel.
But I will never do it again. 'CAUSE I cracked the saddlebag while trying to remove it.
And until I find a way to weld that crack; I won't be able to install external latches when the saddlebag's stock internal latches fail.

Perhaps I can help suggest a repair. Is the the saddlebag lid or the saddle back body that is cracked?

Mike

 

[ett]

Perhaps I can help suggest a repair. Is the the saddlebag lid or the saddle back body that is cracked?

Mike

I created the crack when trying to pull it off the bike.
I removed all the bolts holding it on and thought it just needed a "good yank" to pull/snap it off the bike.
BUT foolish me, there was one bolt I had missed.

Anyway, it's the black saddle back body; specifically the flat top portion that resides under the grab rail.
The section that is not part of the inside wall of the saddlebag.
The crack is not visible to the naked eye, and does not leak.
BUT it is very close to where one would have to drill holes to mount external latches.
In fact; I had to pull the crack apart to see it in the following image:


Since it's been cracked for almost 7 years, about 75k miles, and has not caused any problems.
I haven't bothered to do anything about it. EXCEPT for watching videos on how to weld plastic and do some internet searches prices of plastic welders.

 

[rc_heli_nut]

I created the crack when trying to pull it off the bike.
I removed all the bolts holding it on and thought it just needed a "good yank" to pull/snap it off the bike.
BUT foolish me, there was one bolt I had missed.

That kind of sooks, because with all the bolts/screws out, the saddlebag assembly easily lifts off the rear subframe, there's even a hanger on the subframe that holds it in place while you begin installing the screws.

I didn't own a lift so this worked well for me, and as Dirtflier mentioned, access to caliper was easy. It also gave me great access to the final drive splines to clean out the old moly and apply new M77, as I always put some of the M77 on the final drive, and the rest on the driven flange. Splines stayed in good shape.

 

[ST1100Y]

I seem to have been the only person who had real difficulty removing the muffler.

hmm... I was more worried getting it back on the down-pipes, but some copper-slip on the graphite packing's made it rather easy at the end...

This is exactly why I always removed the RH saddlebag assembly for rear tire changes.

Ouch! Never did that...
But I've a bike-lift, comfy sitting on the workshop stool while pushing the rear caliper up into the pannier recess and wiggling the rear wheel in/out...
(that I end up dirty to the shoulders as my GF just never cares to wash that rig prior any works, is another issue... )

 

[mikesim]

Here is a link to the thread where I repaired the pannier lid on my NT. It uses a combination of metal "stitches" that are melted into the substrate and also a chemical weld that actually bonds the two pieces together. The pannier lid was molded out of polycarbonate and is designated by a "PC" emblem on the part itself. I am not sure that the saddlebag body is also polycarbonate. If it is a different material, the repair is done in the same way except the chemical used to weld the crack is different. Almost all the plastic pieces on the bike have some sort of "designator" molded into them that informs what plastic is used so that it can be recycled properly. I think that you will be pleased with the strength of the repair as I have outlined and the crack is now barely noticeable.

Damn the bad luck! | Saddlebags | Page 2 | NT-Owners

Mike