Heated Gloves Not Working - What Am I Missing?

Mellow

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Could be the gloves or the liner... Your gloves should have come with a long Y cord you could use to eliminate the liner from the issue...
 
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Chris,

Did you try to tighten the end of the wire ends by carefully using a tiny screwdriver and spreading the male conector end and then reinsert it ? sometimes that will do the trick. If not that call Gebing and confirm what time they will be available to look at it for you. The good thing is that you are probably within less than 2 hours from them.

Eldon
 
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Woodaddict

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used to be in Tumwater,WA, but I think they moved to Stoneville,NC
 

mikesim

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It sounds like you are getting power to the gloves, just no heat. Do you have access to an ohmmeter? I would check the gloves for an open circuit. I dunno what the specs are for the Gerbing's, but my Tourmaster Synergy's consume 26 watts of power for the pair or 13 watts each. Using Ohm's law that should result in a measurable resistance of ~10-12 ohms. I would suspect that internally, the gloves are wired with a number of parallel circuits thus one or more may be open resulting a different resistance reading than I suggest. Measure the resistance on each glove an report back. Also, I am assuming that each glove has its own plug. Check to see if you have voltage at that plug.

Mike
 
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I was to Olympia last spring, they had moved from behind the airport to a smaller facility about a mile west on 101 on south side of the freeway. It was a Saturday and no one was there.
I am aware they sold out to the N.C company , but at that time it appeared that they would still maintain a presence in Olympia. If not they will lose a lot of loyal NW users. Just my .02 cents worth of thought on that based on my own thoughts. I bought my first electrics from them simply because they were in my back yard.


used to be in Tumwater,WA, but I think they moved to Stoneville,NC
 

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at least they moved service dept to NC, maybe not production. yes, some equity firm bought them daboo, I have ridden in some rain with electrics, and you might just need to twist the connections, not the wires, just the metal ends twist. also maybe some of that connection grease
 
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1950 Black Lake BLVD SW, Olympia Ph 360-357-1110.
 
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Chris,

I would call them before going and confirm if they are stil there ETC . we rode up from south of Portland specificly because my ridding buddy was having trouble with his jacket linner. A nice ride etc, but a wasted day as far as accomplishing anything. I had suggested that he call them and had thought he had done so until we arrived at the older facility sort of behind the airport. then we found the new address posted on the door. We arrived over there and no one there. LOL then he admitted he hadn't called!

Let us know what you find out regarding if they are still doing anything there in Olympia. I have been considering getting warm & Safe stuff in the future, and if they have ran out on us here I certainly will make a move.

Eldon
 
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Mike, good point. I should've thought of it myself. My ohmmeter was one of the first tools my Dad gave me, and one I find extremely useful. The left glove has about 12 ohms of resistance. The right glove has 0 ohms.

I suspect the gloves will have to be returned. The question is if it is North Carolina or Olympia. If Olympia, it might be worth a ride down. Let's see...Thursday is clear, the temp is supposed to hit 37F for a high and only get down to 31F... I could use it as an excuse to get a picture of some cities with "O" and "T" and a few others in between. :D

Chris
Are you saying that the right glove has no (0)resistance. If so it should be getting very hot. Or did you mean that it has infinite (max)resistance meaning the wire is open?
 

mikesim

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Mike, good point. I should've thought of it myself. My ohmmeter was one of the first tools my Dad gave me, and one I find extremely useful. The left glove has about 12 ohms of resistance. The right glove has 0 ohms.
]

Yup, sounds like the right glove has an open circuit, thus no heat. You said that the left glove just barely gets warm with the controller on high... it "should" be putting out pretty good heat with that resistance reading. I dunno about the Gerbing's, but the Tourmasters have a temp sensor in the circuit that will not allow the gloves to get too warm. It could be that you are trying the glove in a warm location and a similar circuit on the Gerbing's is preventing full heat..... or, the gloves could be wired in a series arrangement and when one glove goes it takes the other one with it.... kinda like the old Christmas lights.

Hope this helps!

I feel your pain, I have been spoiled by heated gloves and can't imagine riding in temps below 35 or 40 without 'em.

Mike
 
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Chuck, I interpret the reading of 0 ohms as being a short. It should read around 12 ohms like the other glove, which does work.

Chris
A short would be less resistance, more current flow, more heat until the wire burns open, then max resistance ie infinity ohms. no heat. I have a left glove that is giving me no heat and I measured it. Infinite ohms.
 
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Chuck, what you wrote got me to thinking. I suspect I had the leads touching, which is why it read "0". I checked them again and it is open, or infinity ohms. I was able to wiggle the leads around, trying to see if there was something loose. No difference. There's just no continuity in that circuit.

Chris
Now that makes since to this old retired bio med electronics tec. Glad you got it figured out. Hope you can get Gerbing to replace your gloves soon. My Warm & Safe gloves are 5 years old and not under any warranty any more. Working on getting my grown son and Daughter to get me the New Gerbing EX heated gloves for Christmas. Hope I can get by until then.
 

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Sorry to hear of the trouble. Hope they sort you out. This is unrelated, but I would up the fuse to a 12 or 15 amp. I think the jacket requires 9, and the gloves are 2? Ah heck I forget. Maybe the 10 on there is fine.
 
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I've had my gloves, jacket, Y-splitters, and socks all serviced by Gerbings due to failures over the past 5 years. It happens.

Most often what occurs is the wire leads to the plugs break (internally) due to all the bending back and forth. These are easily fixed (and free of charge) by Gerbings. If you check for continuity, and flex the connection around, you may find that in certain positions, you get continuity.....indicating a broken wire in the plug harness.

What can also happen is that the Coax plugs may stop making good contact with each other. This can cause poor/low heat output to the heated gear.The female plug has a small male prong in the center. Take a small/thin flat head screwdriver and gently pry that male prong open just slightly (you'll see that the male prong is actually two semi-circle prongs, insert the screw driver between the two halves).

This will allow the male/female connectors to make a more solid connection. It's an easy fix and something to keep in mind as part of your "maintenance" of the clothing.

I also had the left arm of my jacket stop working. I suspect it was my fault because I rolled my jacket in too tight of a ball for packing (lesson learned). True to their warranty, Gerbing fixed the left arm of my jacket free of charge.

The only thing that failed and wasn't covered by Gerbing's warranty was my dual controller. After 4 years of service, the controller froze in the "ON" position. As soon as I plugged in the controller, it would go full power to both zones. Gerbing only covers the controller for 3 years. :frown:
 
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RedLdr1

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This is unrelated, but I would up the fuse to a 12 or 15 amp. I think the jacket requires 9, and the gloves are 2? Ah heck I forget. Maybe the 10 on there is fine.
Before "you up the fuse" to a larger size make sure the existing wiring can handle the load. Over fusing is a good way to create nasty electrical problems, all the way up to a fire, if the wiring isn't the proper gauge to handle the additional load.
 
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Chris,

Thanks for the update. I love the southern comfort, but am sorry to hear the sad news about Olympia. I will definatly be considering Warm & safe for my future electrical needs, or maybe Arostich, only problem is Stich doesn't offer the pant liners at this time.

Eldon
 

Phil Tarman

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Chris, I've had better customer service from Warm n Safe than from Gerbing. I'm happy with my Warm n Safe heated liner but have no experience with their gloves.

Six or seven years ago, Gerbing's controllers didn't last anywhere near as long as Warm n Safe's did.

That's all I know about that.
 

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Do you guys who have both the heated liner and heated gloves also have heated grips?

I notice that with the heated liner on full and the heated grips on full, my alternator output is marginal. I'd guess the gloves don't pull any more amperage than the heated grips. I may have to try some, but then I'd also need to buy a dual controller. I came close to doing that when I replaced my single controller earlier in the month.

Even with my winter gloves and a thin liner, I lost a lot of heat through my hands when I was riding back from Rocky Ford last week.
 
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