Hello all. New here with a question

Mark M

Mark M

Joined
Sep 18, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Miami, fl
I’m fast approaching my mid sixties, and have always liked the looks and practicality the NT offers. I have been an avid rider since I had my endorsement stamped on my drivers license back in 76😊. I have finally bought a 2010 silver ABS model with 17k on the clock from some really nice folks at Monster Powersports in Wauconda just north of Chicago. I had prior to that just sold my 2015 Kawasaki Concourse after logging 68k miles on it. The NT is in great shape with lots of farkles including a Sargent seat, led projectors, grip heaters, and a Givi trunk, along with some nifty adjustable lowering foot pegs. It took me four days to ride it home to Miami, with an assorted mixture of Highway and scenic routes. The NT was immensely enjoyable and comfortable to ride, it never missed a beat, it returned an average of 62 MPG on regular gas. My question is whether or not this bike belonged to someone in this forum, I’m trying to determine if a valve inspection is necessary as the bike has no service records. I’m glad to be here, and looking forward to be part of your community.
 
I'd want to do a valve check if there weren't any service record. After a while, you can stretch the interval quite a bit.
 
The last 6 digits of the VIN are 000110. My avatar is the picture of the actual bike. I forgot to mention that it also came with Garmin Zumo 450 professionally mounted on a lockable Ram mount.
 
Welcome. I don't know your skill sets but the NT valves are easier to check and set than say a shim/bucket arrangement for the average person. It is tight in there but doable.

Arknt
 
ARKNT said:
It is tight in there but doable.
Click to expand...
Draining the coolant & removing the radiator helps ;)
Tank has to come off anyway, so does air filter housing, PAIR/case vent plumbing, various cables/connectors and air baffle plates...
I suggest to get/use new valve cover gaskets (2x P/N 12391-MEW-920), prevents possible leaks and requiring you to dive into there again soon afterwards...
The aluminum crank nut cap (P/N 90087-MR1-000) wouldn't bulge on my GF's '07 model, needed to remove the alternator cover, take the stator out, drill the cap...
cam chain guides/tensioners have wear indicators (see w/shop manual), shouldn't be an issue at that low mileage...
 
ARKNT said:
Welcome. I don't know your skill sets but the NT valves are easier to check and set than say a shim/bucket arrangement for the average person. It is tight in there but doable.

Arknt
Click to expand...
Thank you, My only concern is the removal of the Tupperwar, I can handle the valve check no problem.
 
ST1100Y said:
Draining the coolant & removing the radiator helps ;)
Tank has to come off anyway, so does air filter housing, PAIR/case vent plumbing, various cables/connectors and air baffle plates...
I suggest to get/use new valve cover gaskets (2x P/N 12391-MEW-920), prevents possible leaks and requiring you to dive into there again soon afterwards...
The aluminum crank nut cap (P/N 90087-MR1-000) wouldn't bulge on my GF's '07 model, needed to remove the alternator cover, take the stator out, drill the cap...
cam chain guides/tensioners have wear indicators (see w/shop manual), shouldn't be an issue at that low mileage...
Click to expand...
Thank you for your detailed reply, I may just go ahead and do the job myself if unable to verify.
 
ST1100Y said:
Draining the coolant & removing the radiator helps ;)
Tank has to come off anyway, so does air filter housing, PAIR/case vent plumbing, various cables/connectors and air baffle plates...
I suggest to get/use new valve cover gaskets (2x P/N 12391-MEW-920), prevents possible leaks and requiring you to dive into there again soon afterwards...
The aluminum crank nut cap (P/N 90087-MR1-000) wouldn't bulge on my GF's '07 model, needed to remove the alternator cover, take the stator out, drill the cap...
cam chain guides/tensioners have wear indicators (see w/shop manual), shouldn't be an issue at that low mileage...
Click to expand...
You don't have to take off the tank. It pivots rearward and up, providing plenty of clearance for checking the valves. You don't have to drain or remove the radiator. New valve cover gaskets are a good thing to have on hand, but apply a little gasket sealant to hold them in place when you replace the valve covers. Don't torque the valve cover bolts down too tight... they have very low torque specs. There is plenty of info on this site under Technical for this operation.
 
harryhendo said:
You don't have to take off the tank. It pivots rearward and up, providing plenty of clearance for checking the valves.
Click to expand...
Yeah... I do have the workshop manual... but frankly, clipping the fuel line quick-connector out, detaching the few electrical connectors and pulling that hinge bolt ain't that much of an extra effort compared on how this eases the task due the gained work-field clearance...
New valve cover gaskets are a good thing to have on hand, but apply a little gasket sealant to hold them in place when you replace the valve covers.
Click to expand...
Definitely, I use some simple Pattex impact glue to hold them in the groove of the cover; don't forget to also add a dab of engine sealant in the corners where the crescent shaped part (covering the cam bore on the head) meet with the flat section, besides twisted seals (hence gluing them onto the covers) is this the spot prone to seepage...
 
I forget the guy's name but there is a good series of How to videos on youtube specifically about checking and topping off coolant

Wait he has a 4 part video A-Z and the channel is a guy called 'cappozir'

Here is a link to part 1
 
RedNigel said:
I forget the guy's name but there is a good series of How to videos on youtube specifically about checking and topping off coolant

Wait he has a 4 part video A-Z and the channel is a guy called 'cappozir'

Here is a link to part 1
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
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