Lid latch epoxy reinforcement is very effective, highside aftermath

[NewTo700V]

This was a somewhat painful and very expensive experience, but I feel it worth sharing that reinforcing the latches with a 2 part epoxy like JB Weld plastic bond is worth it. This is mainly to recommend applying epoxy to fresh lids that have yet to experience damage to the plastic post area. I can't speak to the effectiveness of varying patch jobs to already damaged lids.

My NT experienced a low speed high side, this wasn't a standard drop. I had just started a 90 degree right turn at an intersection, and there was a strip of fine gravel that I didn't notice. The rear wheel slid out, and then caught clean pavement. There was a violent torque reaction as the bike righted and slammed down onto the left side. I don't think I was going more than 5 mph. The left pannier essentially shattered. The aft most latch actually tore through the inner luggage body on it's exit. The forward latch has been tweaked, but it stayed anchored in it's plastic posts. You can see from the photos that the areas I applied JB weld effectively stayed together as one unit. For normal luggage use, I can't see how there would ever be an issue with the lids' plastic posts after reinforcement.

 

[Macka]

Sorry to hear about your misadventure. Luckily perhaps, you were unhurt as you did not mention any injury to yourself.
The bike can be repaired.

Macka

 

[ARKNT]

Glad you are OK.
It is surprising how hard the torque reaction can be when the rear end catches traction and it is not in line with the front. I unweighted the rear end of a 1000 Concours during some emergency braking once and it snapped hard when the tire caught . May have gotten a slight case of whiplash on that one.

Brad

 

[Miairhead]

A couple of years ago, I think my hand slipped of the clutch and I did am amazing handle bar slap and crashed. I recieved $2600 from insurance, the bag was not is very good shape ( I found this out after 4 weeks in rehab with 5 broken ribs and ankle). I used old credit cards to reinforce the cracks with epoxy, (I was already using external latches) and epoxy truck bed liner (brush on type) on the outside. I think the lid is stronger then before. The lids are the large ones and I happy with the repair, and function.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Epoxy brush-on truck bed liner is in my future ... one of these days.

 

[Miairhead]

When I repaired mine, I had use some of the can before, and he vehicle had kind of evaporated, so i applied with a putty knife. This was perfect for the repair as it is thick, I'm no artist but it smooth and now very reinforced. I have not done the other side to 'match' yet. I not sure what kind of plastic Honda uses, but it does not like a lot of stuff sticking to it with out ruffing the surface a lot.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Back before my "Epic Ride" in '13, I had roughed up my big lids with 80 grit sandpaper, then painted them with Rustoleum Flat Black. I might do that instead of the truck bed liner. Depends on cost more than anything.

 

[Miairhead]

This is what I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TDUXS/ref=twister_B077Y8DMPS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Phil Tarman]

Thanks!

 

[NewTo700V]

Here's a pro-tip. When swapping the left side latch mechanism over to a new saddlebag body, makes sure the seat lever is spun around to fit through the opening in the plastic. Otherwise you'll have to take the whole thing off and do it again. :LOL:

Anyway, the NT is back together. I might do some touch up in areas with paint, but otherwise it's ready for the road.

Shopping list for this fun event was:
-new Big lids
-new left side saddlebag body
-tip over wing plastic
-inner handlebar weight and associated rubber bushings

 

[NewTo700V]

What did you use as a container for those reinforcements? Looks like you marked off some sort of box or had a mold.

How thick was your epoxy base?

I just had my lid posts fail. In a box were my (new) David Silver Deauville lids. Put them on today; and right now's a fine time to epoxy them, if I'm going to.

No mold needed. I use JB Weld Plastic Bonder. It's a 2 part epoxy, available at most Lowe's. I just put on the replacement big lid on a few days ago and it got the same reinforcement treatment.

With the lid off the bike lay it latch side up on a table (it's easier if you leave the latches off while you apply the epoxy, that way they don't get in the way). Mix up some of the plastic Bonder with the included wood stick and just carefully glob some into the "tub" walls around the plastic posts. Swipe the stick against a side to help scrape the expoxy into the tub. It will gradually fill and level off. Be careful not to get epoxy into the screw holes (you may want to plug them with just the screws). After the tub is filled, apply some to the front of the posts. As the epoxy starts curing over the minutes it will be less runny and it's easier to do the "sculpting" at the inner lid side of the plastic posts.

 

[Moto-Kafe]

Instead of creating a new thread, thought I would share my experiences on this one......NOOBS (new NT700 owners!!) take note......!!!!!!!!!

I was reinstalling the rear wheel assembly, had everything back on the bike except for the Rear Fender (skirt....the one that holds the License Plate). I inserted the skirt starting with the two "nubbs" at the top that fit into the rubber grommet holes.....easy. I then went to the right side to "tuck" the skirt inside the groove on the right pannier body (the black plastic piece that the pannier lid snaps to).........I pulled the pannier body plastic out (just a tad) to be able to insert the skirt......and a 3" long piece of the pannier body broke off in my hands. That stuff is BRITTLE....!!!!! Noobs Beware.......take extra caution around it. It is by no means "flexible" at the least.....!!! I don't use "gorilla hands" working on the bike, I take it very slow and easy......am VERY ANAL about cosmetics on bikes......and it still broke off. So, off I go to Lowes to get some JB Weld Plastic Epoxy (two part, looks like a syringe) to bond the joint (i.e. GLOB it on the inside, unseen) enough hopefully to where I can reinstall the skirt this time without it breaking off. I hate learning this stuff the hard way......!!! A new right side pannier base is north of $235 plus shipping, so I will just McGuiver this one back together. (Ebay had none for sale).
I ordered some JB Weld Plastic "Putty" recently, but have not tried that on anything........but I just used some on a junk plastic piece to see how it hardens and bonds. Will report my findings.

Broken piece......Gorilla Glued in place prior to smearing the JB Weld Plastic Goop on the backside.

 

[NewTo700V]

Bonding broken motorcycle plastic I use ABS cement, as most motorcycle plastic is usually made from ABS. You gotta think that stuff is meant to meld pipe fittings together to be watertight under pressure. Wouldn't you want motorcycle plastic to meld together?

 

[Moto-Kafe]

Bonding broken motorcycle plastic I use ABS cement, as most motorcycle plastic is usually made from ABS. You gotta think that stuff is meant to meld pipe fittings together to be watertight under pressure. Wouldn't you want motorcycle plastic to meld together?

Great idea.........Thanks!!! I just so happen to have some PVC/ABS cement. I just smeared some on the backside (unseen) part of the fracture.........will let it dry completely, then maybe another "smooge" of it on there again tomorrow.

 

[Brillot2000]

Bonding broken motorcycle plastic I use ABS cement, as most motorcycle plastic is usually made from ABS. You gotta think that stuff is meant to meld pipe fittings together to be watertight under pressure. Wouldn't you want motorcycle plastic to meld together?

That's what is referred to as a "Solvent Bond". The cement actually melts the plastic slightly below the surface on both mating pieces. As the solvent evaporates the plastic begins to harden on both mating pieces and then forms a strong bond between the surfaces.

Be careful with that stuff. It can melt and distort both mating pieces. There's no turning back after you have applied the cement to either piece.

 

[Brillot2000]

My NT experienced a low speed high side, this wasn't a standard drop. I had just started a 90 degree right turn at an intersection, and there was a strip of fine gravel that I didn't notice. The rear wheel slid out, and then caught clean pavement. There was a violent torque reaction as the bike righted and slammed down onto the left side. I don't think I was going more than 5 mph.

I wanted to comment regarding this incident.

The low-side incident became a high-side due to losing traction and then regaining it. The rear wheel getting traction back was what righted the bike and then flipped you over in the opposite direction. Letting off the throttle would have kept the incident to a simple low-side. Embarrassing more than anything else. I am just saying...

You got to love Newton's Laws of Motion...

I have learned a lot watching this Youtube channel, DanDanTheFireman

I think it is worth watching a few videos. It has sharpened my situation awareness when riding and helped put names to things that have been instinct for so long.

 

[NewTo700V]

Co

Great idea.........Thanks!!! I just so happen to have some PVC/ABS cement. I just smeared some on the backside (unseen) part of the fracture.........will let it dry completely, then maybe another "smooge" of it on there again tomorrow.

The universal cement may work alright, but don't use dedicated PVC cement. If you can find it, go with stand alone ABS cement in medium black. Get some primer/cleaner too, sometimes both are sold together. Use is the same as putting pipe together. A little bit of cement on both surfaces before pressing together. Just do the edge of the crack, I don't think smearing on the backside does much unless you're bonding a ABS blank for reinforcement.

 

[NewTo700V]

I wanted to comment regarding this incident.

The low-side incident became a high-side due to losing traction and then regaining it. The rear wheel getting traction back was what righted the bike and then flipped you over in the opposite direction. Letting off the throttle would have kept the incident to a simple low-side. Embarrassing more than anything else. I am just saying...

I don't need this explained to me by armchair rider coaches who weren't there. I know how a high side works. I have more "oh &!#*" saves than I care to count over tens of thousands of miles ridden every year. In this instance there was no time to "let off the throttle". The slip and traction regain took place in the span of under two seconds as this was an incredibly thin strip of gravel. By the time my brain registered loss of traction I was already on the way to eat asphalt. TC on a newer bike might have saved me. You might as well be lecturing someone who locked up their brakes on a wet road and say "well if you only had rapid fired pulsed like ABS you'd have been good".

 

[NewTo700V]

Ok? My intent for posting this was to suggest to NT owners to reinforce luggage lids before regular usage failure. I wasn't looking to turn this into NT Accidents and Me. Sharing the aspects of the wreck was simply to illustrate how effective the epoxy is when tested to the extreme. Obviously if you pop your big lids like a zit, all the JB Weld in the world doesn't matter. If you'd like to showcase used moto gear, please create a separate topic.

 

[Brillot2000]

Ok? My intent for posting this was to suggest to NT owners to reinforce luggage lids before regular usage failure. I wasn't looking to turn this into NT Accidents and Me. Sharing the aspects of the wreck was simply to illustrate how effective the epoxy is when tested to the extreme. Obviously if you pop your big lids like a zit, all the JB Weld in the world doesn't matter. If you'd like to showcase used moto gear, please create a separate topic.

I digress.