Just bought an 2010 NT. Definitely need to change riding position if I'm going to out on any long distance mileage. Looks like Motorcycle Larry is out of business and Heli bars has stopped production. Now what? I was hoping for a combination riser/powerlet/ram ball type combo but looks like I may be out of luck. All suggestions appreciated, thanks, Jack P.S. Had Rox on a Wee Strom and liked them.
Looking for riser solutions
- Thread starter jacknelson
- Start date
Warren
2
www.twistedthrottle.com has a large selection or risers. I bought mine from them several years ago.
I put 2" Rox on mine. Didn't change any cables. Rotating them back at a 45 degree angle seems to lighten the steering. Also a Ram bar-clamp mount works well.
I got the Motorcycle Larry risers, but haven't used them yet. Went to install them and found the clutch cable too short, didn't want to rotate, just elevate.
I made a note for myself based on a thread somewhere here, that a Honda Transalp clutch cable adds a couple inches. Honda part #:
22870-MAB-620
Thanks for the reminder, because I need to do this before next riding season!
I made a note for myself based on a thread somewhere here, that a Honda Transalp clutch cable adds a couple inches. Honda part #:
22870-MAB-620
Thanks for the reminder, because I need to do this before next riding season!
junglejim
Site Supporter
I found that the stock clutch cable will work with risers that are 1" up and 1" back, but it is stretched to the max. It worked for about 30,000 miles before wear at the bend required changing to the Transalp clutch cable. Clutch cables don't wear out overnight. Just watch for wear signs and order a new cable when you notice the signs.
When installing a new cable lube it up well first. Attach a string to one end of the old one before pulling the old one out so you can pull the new one back into the same routing as the old one.
When installing a new cable lube it up well first. Attach a string to one end of the old one before pulling the old one out so you can pull the new one back into the same routing as the old one.
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
[...When installing a new cable lube it up well first...]
That's an old fashioned idea and comes from a time when the steel, braided cable rubbed (metal-to-metal) on the inside of a steel housing/covered by plastic-like outer skin. All the modern stuff has a plastic sheath over the steel cable so lube only seems to attract more dirt and dust. I usually clean the inside of the cable housing with only contact cleaner once a year.
By the way, I've been down the same road with 1" risers using standard clutch cable and what I noticed right off was the angle of the cable leaving the clutch lever mount at the handlebar. Instead of coming straight out then making a gentle bend towards the steering head area, it angled abruptly once it left the adjuster ferrule - that's the point where it rubs on the inside. And changing to the Trans-Alp cable noticeably reduced the amount of pull required because it didn't have the internal rubbing.
Going back to the original question, that massive riser with the integrated RAM ball and Powerlet had a handlebar rise of over 5" and came with longer cables and an extension for the brake hose. It seemed expensive ($200+) at first glance but when you calculated the cost of 3 new cables and the hose extension, it actually wasn't too bad. If you look on this website I'm sure you can find a few photos of that piece.
OK, I got it back on track!
That's an old fashioned idea and comes from a time when the steel, braided cable rubbed (metal-to-metal) on the inside of a steel housing/covered by plastic-like outer skin. All the modern stuff has a plastic sheath over the steel cable so lube only seems to attract more dirt and dust. I usually clean the inside of the cable housing with only contact cleaner once a year.
By the way, I've been down the same road with 1" risers using standard clutch cable and what I noticed right off was the angle of the cable leaving the clutch lever mount at the handlebar. Instead of coming straight out then making a gentle bend towards the steering head area, it angled abruptly once it left the adjuster ferrule - that's the point where it rubs on the inside. And changing to the Trans-Alp cable noticeably reduced the amount of pull required because it didn't have the internal rubbing.
Going back to the original question, that massive riser with the integrated RAM ball and Powerlet had a handlebar rise of over 5" and came with longer cables and an extension for the brake hose. It seemed expensive ($200+) at first glance but when you calculated the cost of 3 new cables and the hose extension, it actually wasn't too bad. If you look on this website I'm sure you can find a few photos of that piece.
OK, I got it back on track!
Last edited:
Factory cables have the nylon sleeves, and don't need lubrication. Non-OEM replacement cables do not, and manufacturers recommend lubrication. Which always gets gummy if you don't flush out the old lube every year or so.
junglejim
Site Supporter
DirtFlier is right. The petroleum based lubricants do become contaminated with dirt and retain it. I should have mentioned that in my first post. I recommend using a teflon lube or a silicon lube which dries up. Often times the "plastic" lining of the cables is a teflon material. The new lined cables last a LOT longer than the old steel on steel cables and operate with less friction.
Shadowjack is also right. Most of the "custom cables" are made of bulk stock and cut to customer lenght. I've found some of the housings are lined and some aren't. Keeping them clean and lubricated extends life and reduces friction, but it is a pain-in-the-butt to stay on top of and I, for one, tend to neglect it too much. Go with the Honda cable.
Last edited:
bicyclist
Guest
Going back to the original question again, it isn't strictly necessary to use risers. If you find a set of ⅞" handlebars with a higher rise, you can use them in place of the stock bars. As discussed, you'll need longer cables.
I used a BMW K75T handlebar with the TransAlp clutch cable and a pair of 2" longer throttle cables made up by a local bike shop.
I used a BMW K75T handlebar with the TransAlp clutch cable and a pair of 2" longer throttle cables made up by a local bike shop.
Frosty
Site Supporter
Helibar used to make a kit (Honda NT700 Handlebar Relocation Adapter, HR01052). It included custom made brake line extension, clutch and throttle cables. It was expensive to make and low sales lead them to stop selling the kit. I have one installed on my NT and it suits me very well. Perhaps you can chase one down. You might call Helibar in ME direct. They may have one around and/or can give you the specs for the cables.
When I was looking to raise my bars, I couldn't find any that fit in the cockpit space. The clamps on the top bridge are closer together than standard Hondas, they have sharpish bends, and they're narrower overall. Changing any of these parameters makes them interfere somewhere.
I put these on mine. Inexpensive ($20) and 30mm gain.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7GBZOK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7GBZOK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I second the Rox Riser suggestion. By design you can use some of the length to move the bars forward and back to get the perfect distance. Because they make so many different lengths you are free to start with bars that have a comfortable bend and work back from there.
For me the worst part of the stock bars was the weird wrist angle I had to adopt, first thing I did was pick out aluminum Renthal street bars and work back to the clamp from there. That said I did have to have all new cables made but in the end i was into it for @ $350 and glad I did it. It's a toss-up whether the bars set-up or the Russell is my favorite part of the bike
For me the worst part of the stock bars was the weird wrist angle I had to adopt, first thing I did was pick out aluminum Renthal street bars and work back to the clamp from there. That said I did have to have all new cables made but in the end i was into it for @ $350 and glad I did it. It's a toss-up whether the bars set-up or the Russell is my favorite part of the bike
I put a 1" riser under my bars (similar to the Rox Riser but black and slightly shorter). It makes a nice improvement and worked with the stock cables.
Called Heli Bar and they had a pilot model for the NT. Now on to Barnett cables and then Galfer for the brake cable
@ Clint (pm message says your inbox is full) I did not need to change cables. No binding plenty of slack lock to lock.
Thank you. I'll take care of that inbox.
lynnbpa
Site Supporter
I just put these on my 700, too. Can't beat the price, and no need for longer cables.