Lower the NT

[Phil Tarman]

I copied this material from Keith in Michigan, who was a member of the old Forum. I've gone blank on his last name. But thanks, Keith!

>>>>>>>>>>>

Just finished project Low Rider.
Did the lowering shock modification today on Kris’s NT. The hardest part was pressing out the needle bearing and installing it into the new clevis. Compressing the shock to remove the original eye was not too bad. Car type spring compressors did not work they are just too big. So I took the shock to work and used the hydraulic press to do the hard work.

Had some good tips from another member (thanks Tosh) that helped with the process. Kris is now flat footing the bike and can back it up better with more contact with the ground.

Even with the lowered suspension it is still easer to get up on the center stand that my ST1300.

Now that I have this under my belt I am willing to help others with answers.

Keith Reply Reply With Quote
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05-18-2010 06:48 PM #2 Yogi
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Join Date:May 2010
Location:Chandler, AZ
Posts:10Where did you get the lowering kit? How Much? How long and How hard to do?
Even though I child proofed my house, they still find a way in!
IBA 7764 Reply Reply With Quote
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05-19-2010 03:20 AM #3 dirflier
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Join Dateec 2009
Posts:272It's not really a "kit" per say as it's only one part - a shorter lower shock eye that reduces eye-to-eye shock length. I bought mine from "Streetfighters Inc" in Glendale AZ (623-581-1994) and it had to be ordered since it comes from Europe. The cost was $195 and it took around 4-weeks. They don't charge your card until the part ships which is a fair practice. Reply Reply With Quote
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05-19-2010 11:19 AM #4 Desert Dan
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Locationalm Desert, CA
Posts:235How much does it actually lower the bike? I've already backed down the suspension and that helps some. I'm considering doing the "English" job, lowering the yoke 9mm, or the Sergent Low-Profile seat. Too many years riding Harleys and other crusiers makes me uncomfortable not flat footing the bike.

Dan Reply Reply With Quote
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05-19-2010 12:13 PM #5 dirflier
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Posts:272Seat height is reduced by 35mm (1-3/8") so it now becomes 30.3" instead of 31.7." Reply Reply With Quote
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05-19-2010 04:35 PM #6 Keith N Kris
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Join Date:Apr 2010
Location:West Mi
Posts:27Purchased from EPM Performance Imports [info@epmperf.com]
Part was a Hyperpro LK-H007-002-35 $202.00
Took a week to get from them.

I thought it was not difficult to do if you are comfortable working on bikes. And have a way to compress the shock spring to undo and install the new eye.

Kris is 5’3” tall and can flat foot the bike.

Keith

>>>>>>>>>>>

Sounds like this might open the NT experience to quite a few folks.

 

[daz]

So does lowering the shock 1.375 inches have any effect on the suspension other than giving you less ground clearance? Are you able to raise the forks up in the triple clamps as well?

 

[Phil Tarman]

I think you can. I don't know if you can raise it 1.375 inches.

 

[CoolNT]

Wow, that's awesome Lori. Besides, I don't know for sure but there may be an adverse effect to lowering the bike. One I can think of would be cornering clearance.

 

[DirtFlier]

[So does lowering the shock 1.375 inches have any effect on the suspension other than giving you less ground clearance? Are you able to raise the forks up in the triple clamps as well?...]

No and Yes. So far I haven't ground down on either side but I don't ride like Jorge Lorenzo. The instructions that come with the lowering kit (actually only one part) tell you how much to raise the forks (12 mm) and also how much to chop (20 mm) off the sidestand. I'm 100% satisfied with the mod!

 

[Patrick]

Hi I new to forum, found a place that changes the spring instead of the clevis. They have video with similar set up on a Honda Fury. Lowered bike 1.5". Does anyone think this would work better or not. Cost for link $175 plus labor to change. (I don't have a press). Cost to change spring $200 plus $50 and they will change for me.

 

[larrylarry75]

Patrick if you can get it done for $250 and it's a professional job that sounds like a good deal. I went with the lowering link made in Germany and had the local Honda dealer install it. It was worth it to me to have a shop do the install and it turned out great, I can flat-foot it now and there's no discernible change in handling. Using the center stand feels just slightly more resistive but still easier than other bikes I've owned so that's a non-issue and the side stand's fine the way it is, no danger of tipping over.

This type of modification may seem expensive to some but when you consider what it costs to replace or at best repaint the plastic on an NT it's a bargain. And that's not to mention the possibility of getting hurt if you drop the bike and it lands on your leg or ankle, neither of which would be cheap to deal with.

For a look at my project goto the May posts here: http://daysoftheredgirl.blogspot.com/

LL75

 

[BillyDoc]

One of my concerns with the NT is when I get it on it's side and must lift it back up. I'm know from experience that I can't do it! Don't ask. A fit of stupid that didn't cause any damage.

Anyway, it just occurred to me that lowering the bike, which I would like to do in any case, would change the angle the bike assumed on it's side to a more upright angle when it was supported by the tires and the side brace, and this should make it easier to get it back to a nice vertical attitude. Has anyone here who has lowered their bike done this experiment? Could one person then lift it?

Bill

 

[DirtFlier]

[...found a place that changes the spring instead of the clevis....lowers bike by 1.5"..."]

The only way a different spring can lower the bike is by being softer than the original spring so it settles more when you sit on it, which essentially means you have reduced rear wheel travel. The lower shock eye retains the original full stroke of the shock so you still have the same ride quality but with the seat much closer to the ground.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Bill, this is just a guess, but I think the likelihood is that if you lowered the bike, it might just rest on the pannier and tip-over bar and handlebar end and the tires will just be up in the air. But if you rocked it so that the tires did touch the ground, it would be more upright than it would be prior to lowering.

Have you tried: 1) backing up to the bike, 2) holding the lower handlebar grip and the passenger grab rail in the other hand, 3) putting your butt against the saddle and then 4) walking the bike up with your legs.

I've had five knee replacements and I can lift the NT by doing it that way. First time I saw this technique demonstrated, it was by Skert, a 95# woman who must be all of 5' tall, and she was lifting a BMW Light Truck (the K1200LT). I've seen a small woman lift a Goldwing using this technique, too.

 

[BillyDoc]

Thanks Phil, that sounds like an interesting technique! And if you can do it Lori, I should be able to as well. I'm six feet tall (or I was once, I'm 70 now) and you may have the advantage on that exercise, being shorter and having better leverage.

I think I'll wait to do the experiment though.

Bill

 

[Chucksklrst]

Have you tried: 1) backing up to the bike, 2) holding the lower handlebar grip and the passenger grab rail in the other hand, 3) putting your butt against the saddle and then 4) walking the bike up with your legs.

.

This technique works, I just used it a few days ago with my NT.