[How To] MC Larry bar risers and replacement bar clamp..

Joined
Jul 24, 2011
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31
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Phoenix, AZ
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2011 Black NT700V
This past weekend I finally got around to installing my Motorcycle Larry (MCL) risers and replacement bar clamp, with a ram ball mount for my GPS. It was far easier than I expected, even for me. The one point of concern was over (or under) torquing the bolts and either damaging them or having the bars fall off at 60 zooming along a highway.. One trip to home depot and a torque wrench later and Im good again.

One thing I did not do this weekend was power to the powerlet. Once I am convinced I want it, that will be a separate challenge.

I needed:
- The risers, bar clamp with powerlet and RAM ball came from MCL
- 1/2" hex socket
- 6mm allen key (I got one a new one to fit the new torque wrench)
- 3/16" allen key

First off, the pieces. Clockwise from the top left is the power cable I did not use, the replacement bar clamp, the riser bars, the extended bolts to use with the riser bars, the ram ball that screws into the bar clamp and the replacement bolts that came with the bar clamp (also unused, since the riser bolts did the job nicely):



Remove the original bar clamp with the 1/2" socket. I found I needed to remove the plastic clamps on both sides of the handlebar, once the risers were in place. I marked the right one on the photo. With these two gone, I still had full lock to both sides without putting too much tension on the lines.



I rested everything in place and hand tightened the nuts to see how it would look. It looks like a different shade of grey with the camera flash, but when its not on, the colors look pretty much the same. Once I was convinced, I used the 6mm allen key on the torque wrench set to 20 lb/ft to tighten.




If you are not too bright you will wonder why your RAM ball won't screw into the bar clamp, before realizing there are metal screw grommet thingys in each of the three holes. Pull one out with the 3/16" allen key. :) Then screw in the RAM ball.

And here is one we prepared earlier:



Next comes the GPS.
 

Phil Tarman

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Good job, Scott. I still haven't used my powerlet outlet, but my mechanic noticed that one of the wires to my heated handgrips (that the same mechanic had installed when I bought the bike) was cut. While he was fixing that, he wired the powerlet, so it's got power now. One of these days I may use it for something....
 
Joined
Jan 14, 2012
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Leesburg, Virginia
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Looks good. As an always on outlet, we use the Powerlet outlet on the clamp as a very convenient battery tender plug-in.
 

RedLdr1

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Nice install and write up. One note, when you put the Powerlet outlet towards the rear, or gas tank side of the handle bars, it might interfere when raising the gas tank for maintenance so be very careful.
 
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Thanks for the write up, I am about to fit my MCL risers, which arrived in the post a couple of weeks ago, so this information will be very helpful.
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
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Ruedi Reservoir, Basalt, Colorado
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2010 red NT 700, 1985 Kaw
I have heard that the powerlet close to the tank does get in the way of raising the tank. (from the guy I got it from). It mountss up front just fine, only drawback is getting to the ignition is a little harder.
 
OP
OP
bang
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
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31
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Phoenix, AZ
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2011 Black NT700V
Nice install and write up. One note, when you put the Powerlet outlet towards the rear, or gas tank side of the handle bars, it might interfere when raising the gas tank for maintenance so be very careful.
I debated which way to put it before finally deciding on the powerlet towards the rear. Putting it toward the front would further block the key and already having the clamp higher than usual I was having to pay more attention putting the key in. I figured I would be using the key more often than raising the tank.

b.
 
Joined
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464
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Leesburg, Virginia
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2010 Silver NT700
I debated which way to put it before finally deciding on the powerlet towards the rear. Putting it toward the front would further block the key and already having the clamp higher than usual I was having to pay more attention putting the key in. I figured I would be using the key more often than raising the tank.

b.
Raising the tank wont be a big deal. All you need to do is remove the rear-most bolt. Then you can get the tank past the riser and then you can reinsert the bolt and hinge the tank up like normal (or completely remove the tank if you prefer). I have to do the same thing because the Helibar riser also prevents the tank from swinging up. Very simple and hasn't been an issue at all.
 
Joined
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Prineville, OR, USA
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2013 FJR 1300
The interference between the powerlet and the tank is very small - just enough to be a problem. One of the guys here (don't recall who) took a Dremel tool to that front flange of the tank and removed just enough to let it clear.
 

AlexSH

Guest
Recently I've ordered MCLarry's "the simplest" set of bar riser, received and installed in a minute.
I did not remove any cable clamps or whatever, just
- removed old bolts and bar clamp
- placed riser bars
- placed bar clamp and new bolts
That's all done!
I've got only the riser bars and extended bolts, the existing bar clamp was re-used.
I didn't tried yet to rise the tank, but it seems to be OK.
I'm pretty happy with result.
 
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bang
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
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Phoenix, AZ
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2011 Black NT700V
I considered not removing the clamp - I could still make full lock both ways with it attached, but it was stretched tighter than I was comfortable with..

I still have not run power to the powerlet, but I have found that I don't bother bringing the GPS anymore because of the hassle of bringing it inside to charge it.. Just have to decide if I want to run it direct or through a fuze block.. Currently it is the only electrical gadget..

b.
 
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bang
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
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Phoenix, AZ
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2011 Black NT700V
You can rotate your bars to a different angle to alleviate the strain, you can remove or move the clip holding the cable to the bar if you haven't already, or you can order a third party replacement clutch cable that is longer..

b.
 
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Oct 13, 2011
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Prineville, OR, USA
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2013 FJR 1300
I installed my risers from Larry today, clutch cable is too tight now, and the remedy is?
I didn't have an intolerable problem with the clutch cable, but it was a tight arc up near the handlebars. But the clutch cable can be replaced with Honda P/N 22870-MAB-620 from a TransAlp for about $20. I did do this and it fits fine. Now I have ample slack for that cable.
 
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
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198
Location
New Orleans, LA
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2010 NT700v Metallic Red
I installed the risers, and the peg lowering kit at the same time...wow, what a difference!

It feels much more like a touring bike, and much less like a sport bike, and its still very nimble. :D

My farkle list seems to be growing... ;)
 
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Phil Tarman

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Ronstr, when I put MC Larry's risers on my NT, I didn't have to change any hoses, cables, or wiring. Some people have moved the clamp on the clutch cable, but I didn't even need to do that. MC Larry's people had reasons to tell you nothing needed to be changed.
 

bclyde

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Thanks to all of these posts .. I have this on my must do list.
 
Joined
Sep 30, 2013
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Central Ohio
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Great information on risers and cables . Am thinking I will probably want to install some type of riser . Need to put a few more miles on bike and deside if rise would be enough or if I also need some rearward relocation with Helibars .:spsmile::
 
Joined
Oct 29, 2011
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oregon
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2011 NT, 01 Ultra, 04 VLX
I sugges you go for the Helie risor setup and save yourself a lot of mis - spent dollars to begin with!
when I got my 2011 there was no kit for the ABS, so I blew money for nothing!
 
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