Michelin Road 5's Installed with Pricing

[RED #1001]

Just had a new set of Road 5's dealer installed.
For all you folks who do your own wrenching, here's my cost breakdown.

Rear: $199.95 Front: $169.95 2 Hours labor at $78/hour $7.50 tire disposal fee + tax on all of the above.

Previous tires were PR3's with slightly over 11,000 miles. The rear developed an off center wear strip on the drive shaft side which prompted the change. Front had tons of wear left, but a very close inspection showed some signs of very light cupping on the throttle side. So, since hopefully the only thing that touches the ground is the tires, off with the old and on with the new.

First impression of new tires, WOW does the bike tip in easily! It's been awhile since I've had new tires installed.

 

[Papa Lou]

Yo, Red #1001. Dude (guessing here, forgive me if wrong), you did very well!

Quote from my dealer for Road 5 pair: Rear: $278 + Front: $235 + 2 hours labor @ $105 per hour + ...

Since my Iron Butt miles are trailing off in my old age I went with Dunlop Roadsmart III's because of quote as Front: $178 + Rear (160/60 ZR17 only available): $211 with the same 2 hours & fees.

But I really liked my PR 3's on the 2010 that I had so I would have gone with the Road 5's on the new (to me) 2011 if I could have swung the deal you managed to swing.

Congrats, Red #1001.

But, like you said, "WOW, does the bike tip in easily". I took it out on the high desert mesa to run them in and get used to the new feel. Little traffic and rarely LEO's there, so I can zig then zag through the dotted lines in the long flat stretches there to scrub new tires and get the feel of them.

It would be very interesting to track how yours do, and how mine do over time since they were replaced the same day. But, "y'ins" can make that call on keeping track of it. (Yeah, I've spent time in the Ohio River and Kanawha River country, so I can still keep up with the "Y'ins" reference, along with the "Y'all" reference from further south when I was in the military.)

Ride well.

 

[Sojourner]

I've heard stories.....let's not call them horror stories, but misery stories.....of some special lube needed on the rear splines when doing rear wheel removal. Was this part of your service, RED? Can someone chime in on whether this is for things like tire changes, or for final-drive-related work?

 

[Papa Lou]

Please chime in. If you know someone personally, but not following the forum, who has had such a problem please ask them for info.

I assume it's Molycote 80 or something similar coating the interior of the wheel assembly. Perhaps like an Anti-Seize coating. But, this is something I didn't hear about while I had my 2010 a few years ago. Must be something "most" dealers/shops take care of since I didn't have any problems through 40K miles and multiple tire swaps on that bike. But I'd rather avoid invalid assumptions by asking the right questions because those miles all collected in 2 years. It may be an age related degradation of the factory lube for all I know to date.

I 've only ridden back from the tire change, so far. If I have more info I'll ask the dealer the appropriate questions. I'm hoping that by choosing a shop that also has trained BMW mechanics, who therefore handle many shaft-driven bikes, that such details are part of the service I paid for. But before I head out for points beyond the horizon on this new (to me) bike and with these fresh tires, I'd really appreciate some enlightenment.

Ride well.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Lou, it can be a real problem. I've been burned twice. The first time was at the Honda dealer in Gainesville, FL. I had a rear tire replaced in August of '13 while I was on my Epic Ride. I rode the bike until May, '14, when Chuck Henderson (chucksklrst on the Forum) and I were replacing the rear tire about 15K later. The drive splines (the ones transferring power from the bevel gear in the final drive to the wheel) were in terrible shape, allowing the rear wheel to wobble and wear off the cush drive fasteners. It was obvious that the splines had not been lubricated at all. (I'm probably not getting all the terms right here, BTW). But, I had a four-year extension on my warranty, so Honda paid the bill. The total cost was $1539.


When that tire was replaced, the Honda dealer in Ft Collins, CO, and their mechanic got spacers in the wrong order and the final drive was lunched again. Still repaired under warranty.


But then in '16, the splines had been un-lubed again and this time the warranty was expired. My dealer (not the one that had done the tire change prior to this) ate most of the labor and sold me the parts at cost, so I only had to spend about $1200.

Be sure that the tire changers use Honda Moly-60 or the equivalent.

I think I'm the only person who's had this much trouble as far as I know.

 

[Papa Lou]

Thanks, Phil.

I'll pose the question to the wrench and his service manager as soon as I get back from the high country trip (Tortoise/truck mode, not moto mode) that I've been planning for awhile. Two questions actually: (1) Did they use Moly-60 or perhaps BMW equivalent? (2) How did the tech know he got the spacers in correct order?

I didn't feel or hear anything alarming on the return ride home from the tire install. But, from your feedback, the problem may not announce itself until catastrophic failure occurs.

My mind will rest easier while in the wild places thanks to your response. At least I have a direction to go on this issue when I return and before I ride.

Hope Red #1001 gets this info, too. The value of networking is proven once again.

Thanks again and ride well.

 

[ARKNT]

The moly 60 paste was a Honda product. It is no longer available. I asked at my local Honda dealer what they use in the shop and I did not get a straight answer.
If the BMW shop lubed the splines with their version you are probably good but I would ask them to make sure.
Since the rear wheel is a bit of a job to remove & reinstall, the time to lube the splines is at tire swaps.

Brad

 

[Woodaddict]

I put a rear PR5 in May this year, so I have about 7K on it. might look like center harder rubber may have increased width wise some. but i'm noticing some wore wear than normal (vs PR4)from center part to softer sides all way to outside lip of tread. will keep and eye on it and report when its all done and how it wore. thinking outer sides may have even softer rubber than PR4??

 

[Macka]

When I had the PR4s on I told myself that I would have liked softer sides as they still looked deep when the centre was gone.

 

[RED #1001]

Based on Phil's experiences over the years, at the time I made the tire appointment, I did request that the mechanic apply Moly 60 lube to the "splines". I was told that, "You don't want to do that." by the mechanic with some other information that I can't quite remember. Since I'm not confrontational, I just let it slide. If there was any lube applied at all, I don't know.
My hope is that I only ride about 3.000 to 4.000 miles per year and any gear wear will be minimal.

 

[Phil Tarman]

I'm thinking that I'd probably use Loctite's moly paste. You can't find what the Honda "replacement" for Moly-60 is made out of. I believe in having that moly content of 60% or better. Part of that is based on my experience in the oilfield in seeing steel tear itself up by galling when a lube is used that doesn't have a content of metal. In the oilfield we saw lead-based and copper-based greases used on rotary shoulder connections.

 

[Woodaddict]

I did request that the mechanic apply Moly 60 lube to the "splines". I was told that, "You don't want to do that." by the mechanic with some other information that I can't quite remember.

WOW......HE SHOULD FIND A NEW JOB. this is common with shaft drive bikes, these straight mesh splines that match up tire to final drive. they tend to wear from shifting and braking. back and forth motion

 

[Shadowjack]

Goldwings have had this problem forever. You just have to pull the wheel off every year or so to see if the grease is dried up or not. Any "moly" grease will be better than nothing.

 

[Papa Lou]

I dropped into the shop that replaced my NT's front + rear tires. The feedback I received to my two questions were: 1. The wrench did lube the splines using "Bikemaster All Purpose Grease". He showed me the plastic tub it came in. But neither the plastic tub, nor my online research after the conversation, revealed any clue on its formulation. The only warm, fuzzy feeling I get from that information is that it is designed for "high pressure, high temperature" applications. 2. The wrench described his method for disassembly and reassembly of the bearings or seals in such efforts. He lays them out in order of removal, often placing them sequentially on a wooden dowel. When reassembling the parts are inspected, cleaned if necessary, then go back on in the correct order.

I think this installation will be okay. But, we'll see.

If all else goes awry and the rear drive grinds to dust, I'll know I've been had.

But, hey, there's always another bike in some garage or on some showroom floor that needs a loving home. And I have one of those loving homes.:wink:

 

[Shadowjack]

If the "all-purpose" grease he used wasn't black, it didn't have any moly in it. I really don't think that will suffice for a sliding/grinding connection like the drive splines.

 

[Papa Lou]

If the "all-purpose" grease he used wasn't black, it didn't have any moly in it. I really don't think that will suffice for a sliding/grinding connection like the drive splines.

I understand. It had a black color to it, but didn't look like the Molycote stuff we used on submarine power plant components. We'll know in time. Since I'm not the Iron Butt guy I was with the "easy money" of my working years, it will take a bit longer. If it fails I'll post the heads up here on the forum. Until then, no news may be considered good news.

Ride well.

 

[Tonydtiger1971]

Has anyone had the Road 5 long enough to need to replace it? If so how many miles did you get? My bike came with a Michelin Commander II mounted and I've put 26000 on it since purchase (wish it was more) but have a Road 5 waiting to be installed when the time comes.

 

[Woodaddict]

I put PR5 on my silver, but crossed the 200K mileage, sold it and didn't wear out the tire. So I just was looking for a PR4 (for red)cause didn't like the wear pattern starting on PR5. But they were out of PR4, so had to get PR5. maybe on next week then roughly about 6 months be worn out, report then............It was looking like PR4 might last longer than PR5

 

[Warren]

David, I don't remember seeing a post were you mentioned selling your silver NT although i knew you said you planned to sell it. I am surprised you found a buyer for a motorcycle with 200K on it. I guess the price must have be right.

 

[Woodaddict]

David, I don't remember seeing a post were you mentioned selling your silver NT although i knew you said you planned to sell it. I am surprised you found a buyer for a motorcycle with 200K on it. I guess the price must have be right.

I don't want to clutter up this thread...I have made posts about getting to 201,111 miles, search my username and you will be enlightened!!