My headlight sometimes does not come on

[David Fields]

Hi gang - 2010 NT700 - and every other time I ride, my headlight does not come on. Every time I conclude that my bulb is dead, then it will be on again! When the light is not working, the brights don't work either. Any ideas what I should do? My bike is was purchased in 2010 and I've never changed the bulb. Just time for a new one? Let me know your thoughts! Still enjoying the bike!

 

[ARKNT]

Like JPT said clean the start switch on the bars. When the button is depressed it opens the headlight circuit to give extra amps to the starter.
If/when contacts get dirty they may not close to turn the light back on after the button is released. Clean the contacts.

Brad

 

[seagrass]

Third vote for cleaning the contacts on the starter switch.

This is a known problem seen by many owners and you can count your blessings if this is the first time you have had the problem.

Enjoy the ride,

Seagrass

 

[DirtFlier]

Using electronic aerosol spray is a simple fix. If I were you, I'd separate the switch module by removing the two Phillips screws that come in from the bottom which will allow a much better job of cleaning.

 

[NewTo700V]

Harder fix: Rewire it to get the headlight circuit off the starter switch.

Not sure I would advise that. I haven't owned a new-new bike, but LED lights staying on during start shouldn't be a big deal due to their low power consumption.

The bulbs on the NT however are 75W incandescents. That's a decent load the battery doesn't need to be dealing with when trying to turn the engine over.

As others said, trying opening the controls clamshell and using a contact cleaner. My preferred brand is Deoxit D5.

 

[DirtFlier]

Rewiring the headlight with a separate switch would be similar to having your foot removed because you have a ingrown toenail! :-(

 

[mikesim]

Rewiring the headlight with a separate switch would be similar to having your foot removed because you have a ingrown toenail! :-(

Yeah, everybody knows you just remove the individual toe.... I'm just sayin'.....



Mike

 

[Brillot2000]

Another vote on cleaning the starter button.

On most US Models the starter button has been a headlight cut off switch since the 1975 model year on Honda’s. Other Japanese manufacturers used other methods to keep the headlight off before starting.

 

[DirtFlier]

JustPassinThru - At least in my feeble mind, your example failed to provide sound rationale for putting the headlight on a separate switch.

ps. Using a power washer on your bike is asking for trouble!

 

[DirtFlier]

I've owned four different Honda motorcycles since 1987 and have only had to clean the starter switch on one of them: the '97 PC800. So does one cleaning in 34 years of riding qualify as a common problem?

ps. I've always had access to a water hose.

 

[Brillot2000]

34 years of riding qualify as a common problem?

That's as long as I have been riding. 1987 back in Middle School.

 

[Nak]

The start-button switch.

This is apparently common of the Honda models of the recent, not current, era. The light circuit is wired through the starter switch to cut it of while cranking; but not considered, was road dirt and weather.

Easy fix: Spray electrical contact cleaner in. WITH DROPCLOTHS to protect the finish of the fairing.

Harder fix: Rewire it to get the headlight circuit off the starter switch.

Thanks for the advice, he solved my problem. Save me £ 130. Clean the key with cleaning contact spray. Excuse my bad English.

 

[ST1100Y]

Washing: You do what you have to do. When you lack a garden hose, and apartment managers explicitly forbid any kind of washing or repair in parking areas, you do what you must.

But no one enforces you to bring the pressure nozzle at about 1" of the switch casing (or any other part...)
Living in a building complex I've the same issue, so off to the DIY wash at the gas station around the corner...
Keeping the spray lance at comfortable +3ft I just rinse my bikes...

There obviously IS a problem within that switch - probably a design flaw, since it's commonplace. And since new Hondas apparently don't have that problem (they fixed the problem)

Well, new Hondas are just that... new... so let's see how those "new" switch-pods will work in 10 years/100,000km/100,000miles from now if left unattended...
(I already see UV radiation, frost and environment eating away the rubberized keys on those fancy NC handlebar gizmos... the durability of materials used has not been improved, only the production costs been lowered...)

Oh, there it is: maintenance...

I'm the sucker who takes those thingies apart once a year, clean, inspect, lubricate (nah, don't squirt a can of WD-40 in there...ever!! A drop ACF-50 on the contact surfaces, a dab waterproof grease on those tiny springs and balls, silicone grease where plastic moves on plastic...)
The procedure goes along while inspecting/attending the rubber boots, push-rods, brass parts and levers of clutch- and brake-MCs...

Now guess who has two thumbs and never faced an issue with switch-pods, or worn out brake/clutch levers/parts ...

 

[WVRider]

Make sure the electronic spray is safe for plastic cause the switch inside is plastic.