So I am getting ready to change the oil in my NT. I notice the Rotella T6 meets the manuals recommendations for JASO T 903 MA. Does this mean that is OK to put in our bikes even though it is marketed as a synthetic oil for diesel engines?
NT engine oil ???
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RedNigel
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Richard
You'll find a great many of us using the Rotella T6 in here. Its good stuff
You'll find a great many of us using the Rotella T6 in here. Its good stuff
Bear
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I use it in ALL my four stroke engines. The Vibe, Suburban, inboard on Ariel III, Snow Blower, Lawn Mower. and Honda outboard for the dinghy. I used it in my Ninja--and that revved up to 14,000RPM. The Ninja is still kicking butt on the track.
BigBill
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Same here, its in all my vehicles!
Warren
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Some diesel engines have wet clutches. Google diesel engines wet clutch and you will find days worth of articles on using diesel oil in motorcycles. Its being used in a lot of bikes without problem.
If it meets the lubrication requirements identified by Honda then YES, you can use it without worry.
RedNigel
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Lol
I just remembered back in the 80s I worked in a truck shop and I got free oil. We put Kendall 15W-40 in everything we touched.
My Intruder loved it
I just remembered back in the 80s I worked in a truck shop and I got free oil. We put Kendall 15W-40 in everything we touched.
My Intruder loved it
Isn't diesel oil non-detergent? The owners manual specifically says do not use non-detergent oil.
Many of the articles on the Internet say that JASO T 903 is only a friction rating specific to wet (MA) and dry (MB) clutches. That it does not address specific additives or detergents. This is why I am asking because who knows what is correct on the Internet, and I am about as far from an oil expert as one can get. (c: I figure if the group has been using it for years and years in their bikes with no ill effects it must be OK, but the detergent part worries me a little as I have rebuilt dozens of air cooled engines, and when you break one down with a burned bearing it us usually due to a plugged oil port due to dirty oil or non-detergent oil selection by the owner over extended time.
Many of the articles on the Internet say that JASO T 903 is only a friction rating specific to wet (MA) and dry (MB) clutches. That it does not address specific additives or detergents. This is why I am asking because who knows what is correct on the Internet, and I am about as far from an oil expert as one can get. (c: I figure if the group has been using it for years and years in their bikes with no ill effects it must be OK, but the detergent part worries me a little as I have rebuilt dozens of air cooled engines, and when you break one down with a burned bearing it us usually due to a plugged oil port due to dirty oil or non-detergent oil selection by the owner over extended time.
MAC
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Rich, this is what the NT service manual says.
RECOMMENDED ENGINE OIL:
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil ( U.S.A. and Canada ) OR equivalent moto oil
API service classification: SG or higher
JASO T903 standard: MA
Viscosity: SAE 10W-30
I used the Honda GN 4 in my Valk for 46,000 miles and the NT 10,000+ miles, with no problems.
RECOMMENDED ENGINE OIL:
Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil ( U.S.A. and Canada ) OR equivalent moto oil
API service classification: SG or higher
JASO T903 standard: MA
Viscosity: SAE 10W-30
I used the Honda GN 4 in my Valk for 46,000 miles and the NT 10,000+ miles, with no problems.
Herb
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Rotella T 6 for me as well. I've used it in all my bikes and have seen it widely recommended in all the various motorcycle discussion groups that I've read.
I'm sure Rotella T6 is a good product, but I use the Honda GN4. I figure Honda knows best what works in their products.
Warren
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Diesel oils do have detergents in fact most of them have more detergents than your standard auto oil does. If you are not comfortable with it then buy your oil from the Honda dealer. There is no one best oil so buy what you can afford and trust. If you change it per the manuals schedule you are unlikely to have any problems with whatever oil you choose. I ride in the winter with morning temperatures below freezing so I like the 5w-40 T6 synthetic due to its better low temp lubricating properties. http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/t6.html
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T6 is JASO MA certified. According to the folks at bobistheoilguy forums, it is actually the same rotella synthetic 5w40 formula that used to be sold in the white bottles. Shell only recently paid to get the JASO certification, but motorcyclists have been happily using the white bottle stuff for many years in their wet clutch motorcycles.
T6 has worked great for me in Suzuki TU250x and DR650, NT700, and a turbo subaru. All the bikes have a wet clutch and have never had a problem with it. The DR650 calls for shorter oil intervals than the NT, but on my recent trip around the country I went over the normal 3000 OCI because I had Rotella T6 in the crankcase of the DR. No problems.
I first put T6 in my NT at around 4000 miles after my first big trip on it. I change the oil at least once annually since I put less than 8000 a year on that bike. So even though I think the NT is around 11K miles total I think I am on the third fill of T6. I know this is overkill, but I don't like leaving the oil in there for more than a year and many of my city miles are short trips. I am sure it would last the full 8K if needed. It could have been that the bike was finally broke-in at 4K miles, but it seemed to shift better with T6 than the Honda GN4 oil I used previously.
I know I am changing the oil more often than required, but the price and quality of T6 makes it worth it to me. I think it is better than the Honda GN4 stuff and cheaper too.
I know it is tough oil, since my turbo subaru is hard on oil. That turbo gets hot! Standard 5w30 synthetics would see more oil loss in a 3k OCI, and I would have to add about 1/2 a quart of oil before around 2K miles. T6 allows me to run the 3000-4000 miles in that car without having to add any oil.
T6 has worked great for me in Suzuki TU250x and DR650, NT700, and a turbo subaru. All the bikes have a wet clutch and have never had a problem with it. The DR650 calls for shorter oil intervals than the NT, but on my recent trip around the country I went over the normal 3000 OCI because I had Rotella T6 in the crankcase of the DR. No problems.
I first put T6 in my NT at around 4000 miles after my first big trip on it. I change the oil at least once annually since I put less than 8000 a year on that bike. So even though I think the NT is around 11K miles total I think I am on the third fill of T6. I know this is overkill, but I don't like leaving the oil in there for more than a year and many of my city miles are short trips. I am sure it would last the full 8K if needed. It could have been that the bike was finally broke-in at 4K miles, but it seemed to shift better with T6 than the Honda GN4 oil I used previously.
I know I am changing the oil more often than required, but the price and quality of T6 makes it worth it to me. I think it is better than the Honda GN4 stuff and cheaper too.
I know it is tough oil, since my turbo subaru is hard on oil. That turbo gets hot! Standard 5w30 synthetics would see more oil loss in a 3k OCI, and I would have to add about 1/2 a quart of oil before around 2K miles. T6 allows me to run the 3000-4000 miles in that car without having to add any oil.
Warren
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I suspect the Delo synthetic is pretty much the same as the T6. Since it is designed for diesel engines they have not bothered to get it certified for JASO MA. Rotella T6 was not JASO MA certified in the past either but my guess is that since it is very common for it to be used in motorcycles that they went ahead and got the certification. Probably helps sell more of it in another market for those who are looking for the comfort of seeing the cert. The vintage bike crowd with mostly air cooled engines have been using diesel oil for years with the belief that it is designed to withstand conditions that normal auto oils are not designed for and it is less expensive than motorcycle specific oils.
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Thanks for the help and clarification on detergent Warren. That makes me feel much better since the owners manual say don't use non-detergent oils on page 106. Also thanks to everyone else who helped me understand JASO better. Sounds like I am on my way to Walmart to buy some Rotella T6!
Also one of us mentioned something about stopping using T6 because of the energy conserving language on the label. It looks like as long as it does not say energy conserving in the API circle it should be fine, and the T6 does not have it in the API circle
Also one of us mentioned something about stopping using T6 because of the energy conserving language on the label. It looks like as long as it does not say energy conserving in the API circle it should be fine, and the T6 does not have it in the API circle
Who knows for sure, but some people just say Rotella and do not make it clear which one they are using. There is the regular 15w40 in the white bottle, there is the now blue bottle T6 5w40 synthetic, and a 10w30 synthetic in a silver bottle. The 10w30 is designed for economy and might be the one with "energy conserving language". I haven't heard of anyone using the silver bottle rotella in motorcycles, but the other two are regularly used in all kinds of motorcycles. I have ran the white rotella 15w40 in my suzukis while they were in the break in period and switched them to the T6 after the break in period. The only rotella I have ever ran in my NT is the T6 synthetic.
Warren
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I don't believe they use the term energy conserving. Below is off their web site. The just claim that T6 provides better fuel economy than their standard 15w40 oil.
Use of selected low-viscosity synthetic base oils further energizes the oil’s protective capability that promotes fuel-economy performance with no compromise in durability. Shell Rotella? T6 can contribute in many ways:
Extended-drain capable
Energy saving – fuel-economy performance*
Excellent engine cleanliness and wear protection
Excellent extreme high/low-temperature protection
Improved low-temperature flow*
Use of selected low-viscosity synthetic base oils further energizes the oil’s protective capability that promotes fuel-economy performance with no compromise in durability. Shell Rotella? T6 can contribute in many ways:
Extended-drain capable
Energy saving – fuel-economy performance*
Excellent engine cleanliness and wear protection
Excellent extreme high/low-temperature protection
Improved low-temperature flow*
BigBill
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If you have an OReilly Auto Parts nearby, its on sale $5 off a gallon jug thru the end of the month.
I always wonder why some oils are used. Honda oil is rated very good, but many choose different oil. I sure availability is a reason some use an oil like Rotella but you still need to find oil filters. In my 84 R100RT I used BMW oil, and it always seems as it works fine.
The NT I will use Honda because I found it on the web at a good price and if I purchased 9 quarts I got fee shipping. I would of went to the deal and go Honda oil anyway, and I use K&N filter because I hate the fact you have to have a tool to use a Honda filter. ( I used a big Channel Loc to remove the original filter)
It is more important to always change oil on a mileage interval then the type I think. Oil is not oil but if it meets the specs then I think it okay.
I don't ride like a stole it, so maybe some want a different oil because of their riding style.
Just be careful out there, they are out to kill you, or at least don't care about motorcycle riders.
The NT I will use Honda because I found it on the web at a good price and if I purchased 9 quarts I got fee shipping. I would of went to the deal and go Honda oil anyway, and I use K&N filter because I hate the fact you have to have a tool to use a Honda filter. ( I used a big Channel Loc to remove the original filter)
It is more important to always change oil on a mileage interval then the type I think. Oil is not oil but if it meets the specs then I think it okay.
I don't ride like a stole it, so maybe some want a different oil because of their riding style.
Just be careful out there, they are out to kill you, or at least don't care about motorcycle riders.
The oil filters are real easy to change using a socket style filter wrench and a wobble extension using the hole in the center stand. It can be done with a regular extension but it tough to keep the filter socket cap on the filter. With a wobble extension its a snap!