Overthinking maintenance

Coyote Chris

Coyote Chris

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Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Messages
3,358
Location
Spokane
Bike
10 Red NT 14 FJR, 17 XT
I am going through my bikes thinking about maintenance. Take the FJR. I just replace the plugs today at 21,500 miles. I was supposed to replace them at 10k. They looked fine.
The Battery of that 2014 had to have been made 2013 or so. It works fine. Using a car battery load tester, it drops to 10 volts under load. Hitting the start button will drop it to 10 volts also.
I am thinking with a computer controlled bike, maybe its a good idea to just replace it preemptively, even though I tour with a jump pack. I may ride this bike for another 3 years and it is highly likely
that it would need a new battery anyway in that time. Am I overthinking this? I dont think I am cause I have been left at the side of the road three times due to attacks of "Yuasaitis". Yuasa had a bad welder at their factory and after about two years, you would hit the start button on your GoldWing and the internal welded connection would burn through. Nada.
Think I will buy a battery.
 
I don't know about "Yuasaitis" but do know that modern batteries have a weird way of dying. One day it works fine with no indication of anything amiss, then the next day it's dead. No longer does a battery get weaker and weaker giving you a warning about possible replacement.

To wit: I drove some friends to lunch one day in my Accord. When I came out, the battery was kaput!
 
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Replacing a battery at home in your garage is a lot easier than on the roadside or in a remote campground IF you can even get one in those conditions.
 
DirtFlier said:
I don't know about "Yuasaitis" but do know that modern batteries have a weird way of dying. One day it works fine with no indication of anything amiss, then the next day it's dead. No longer does a battery get weaker and weaker giving you a warning about possible replacement.

To wit: I drove some friends to lunch one day in my Accord. When I came out, the battery was kaput!
Click to expand...

I know thsi as my Old SUV battery did the same ... and it was just 2 years old ...

That's why now I carry a jumper pack and a SAE to SAE cable.

On a recent ride, ny GS battery was not able to start, it just needed a lil boost, so I hooked it to another bike for 10 min, and then startd it whiel the othe rbiek was running and connected... the bike started...

The jump pack i have has started my old small suv a few times...


GOOLOO SuperSafe Car Jump Starter - 1200A Peak 18000mAh (Up to 7.0L Gas or 5.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RRW411X/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_D3EDNQPN5HADQ71QNFTN via @amazon
 
Sunny said:
I know thsi as my Old SUV battery did the same ... and it was just 2 years old ...

That's why now I carry a jumper pack and a SAE to SAE cable.

On a recent ride, ny GS battery was not able to start, it just needed a lil boost, so I hooked it to another bike for 10 min, and then startd it whiel the othe rbiek was running and connected... the bike started...

The jump pack i have has started my old small suv a few times...


GOOLOO SuperSafe Car Jump Starter - 1200A Peak 18000mAh (Up to 7.0L Gas or 5.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RRW411X/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_D3EDNQPN5HADQ71QNFTN via @amazon
Click to expand...
Arent those jump packs amazing? Each of my 4 cars and three bikes has them. Many times I have jumped four cylinder cars. The one thing you want to watchout for using jumper cables in this day and age. The state patrol found out the hard way. A trooper tried to jump start a dead car and it started all right....with its runaway alternator working. Blew every computer in the trooper's car.
One thing I like to watch for is a pack that can be quickly charged by putting it across a good working battery on a running car. Many have circuitry that forbids that. No matter, I am sold on them. I check mine every six months and when they deteriorate after 2 years, they make fine mobile phone chargers when camping.
 
[QUOTE "Yuasaitis". Yuasa had a bad welder at their factory and after about two years, you would hit the start button on your GoldWing and the internal welded connection would burn through. Nada.
Think I will buy a battery.
[/QUOTE]

Same thing happened to me when I was riding a Gold Wing, stopped to fill up with gas, bike was running fine no indication of any problem, bike would not start , it just so happened that I was just a couple of blocks from the Honda dealership.
 
The new battery is probably worth it for the peace of mind it will give.

I agree that many times the newer batteries may not degrade much before they give out. I keep battery readings on equipment here at home, (bike, ATV, mowers) but mostly a waste of time except maybe for the old snapper mower. It's not too good at predicting future failures.

Brad
 
ARKNT said:
The new battery is probably worth it for the peace of mind it will give.

I agree that many times the newer batteries may not degrade much before they give out. I keep battery readings on equipment here at home, (bike, ATV, mowers) but mostly a waste of time except maybe for the old snapper mower. It's not too good at predicting future failures.

Brad
Click to expand...
I decided to purchase a new OEM battery which was on sale free shipping for $115 at partszilla. I figure if the first one lasted this long, then the second will outlive me. The bike has been a tad slow to start of late and when the bat volts drops to 10 volts, who knows what that does to the computers/injectors? The jump packs are amazing and I do check them with my checker. As I do my car batteries. My jump packs, I put on a sticker with the install date and the check date. I camp out normally 30 days a year so they come in handy for all sorts of things. They really only need to be recharged every three months and checked in the Spring and Fall. I have an old one I can use on a heated vest.
 
I wondered how long those lithium jumpers would stay at FULL charge. I recently used my battery jumper, recharged it, then put a sticky note on the outside with the charge date.
 
I replaced the battery in my FJR @26900 miles. As it went out With warning on a trip to Kansas. Replace with a Lithium Ion battery back in May of 2018. Of course I bought the special charging unit for said battery. Also replaced my first set of plugs when I did a Valve check at 25k miles Nov 2017. Will replace again when I do the next Valve Check at 50K . Right now I am at 45500 miles on the bike. Might be selling before I get to 50K anyway. Who Knows. I sure don't.
 
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I have this charger, amazing piece of electronics. Charges normal 12v, AGM 12V Lithium 12V, 6V also. Plus works as a 12V 10A power source, so I can run my car air compressor in home to fill bday balloons.... or when car camping (neo need to run car to sue compressor, just plug it in the camp power). It has a mode to fix sulphated batteries, but I have not tried ...


last week, I put my bike on charging and forgot about it, it was in rain for like 7-8 her and was not damaged... IPX58



NOCO GENIUS10, 10-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charg... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_604652V0NYCDVJWSSXJX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 via @amazon


I no longer use a tenderer, as I fell that it kind of screwed my 3 batteries, now I just plug it in 1hr before ride and the bike is good to go ...
 
Coyote Chris said:
I am going through my bikes thinking about maintenance. Take the FJR. I just replace the plugs today at 21,500 miles. I was supposed to replace them at 10k. They looked fine.
The Battery of that 2014 had to have been made 2013 or so. It works fine. Using a car battery load tester, it drops to 10 volts under load. Hitting the start button will drop it to 10 volts also.
I am thinking with a computer controlled bike, maybe its a good idea to just replace it preemptively, even though I tour with a jump pack. I may ride this bike for another 3 years and it is highly likely
that it would need a new battery anyway in that time. Am I overthinking this? I dont think I am cause I have been left at the side of the road three times due to attacks of "Yuasaitis". Yuasa had a bad welder at their factory and after about two years, you would hit the start button on your GoldWing and the internal welded connection would burn through. Nada.
Think I will buy a battery.
Click to expand...
This is one reason that I have kept my 12 1/2 YO Yuasa Battery. It still provides over 200 CCA and when I test it (regularly) it passes the test easily.
I do carry a jump-pack when on longer trips as I expect it to die any time, but it just keeps on keeping on!
The battery in my Suzuki is now over 6 YO (not Yuasa) with little use in the past 3 years but it also is doing extremely well.

Macka
 
4 years is the average time I get on any battery. A no-name brand Gel Cell that was installed on my NC700X DCT lasted that long. DCT models are more demanding on power requirements and the battery needs to be in good health. These bikes are more sensitive when the starter button is pressed. If it is not happy, all you will hear is the starter solenoid clicking. This has happened to me twice in the 6 years of owning this bike. I am on my third battery on this bike.
 
That is pretty short battery life. My 2012 NC700X has the original battery, and it still tests good on my Optimate charger. OTOH. I put an EverStart Walmart battery in my VStrom 1000 and it lasted 3 years. I never get less than 8 years out of a Yuasa MF battery. All I do, is rotate my charger through my motorcycles once a month during the winter.
 
Macka said:
This is one reason that I have kept my 12 1/2 YO Yuasa Battery. It still provides over 200 CCA and when I test it (regularly) it passes the test easily.
I do carry a jump-pack when on longer trips as I expect it to die any time, but it just keeps on keeping on!
The battery in my Suzuki is now over 6 YO (not Yuasa) with little use in the past 3 years but it also is doing extremely well.

Macka
Click to expand...
You bring up a good point. I dont have a fancy battery checker....just a resistive one with an analoge voltmeter. What would be an acceptable terminal voltage reading when the battery is under its max load (220 cca) and/or under the standard load of the vehicle starter?

As I go through my maintenance, I suspected my FJR jump pack was too long in the tooth. It was new in 3/2017. I pulled it out of the pannier and it showed 84 percent charge. It is supposed to have a start current of 300 amps. I am recharging it but I will get a new one. Under load, it fell too low. And it only took 5 min to charge to 100 percent.
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Sunny said:
I know thsi as my Old SUV battery did the same ... and it was just 2 years old ...

That's why now I carry a jumper pack and a SAE to SAE cable.

On a recent ride, ny GS battery was not able to start, it just needed a lil boost, so I hooked it to another bike for 10 min, and then startd it whiel the othe rbiek was running and connected... the bike started...

The jump pack i have has started my old small suv a few times...


GOOLOO SuperSafe Car Jump Starter - 1200A Peak 18000mAh (Up to 7.0L Gas or 5.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RRW411X/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_D3EDNQPN5HADQ71QNFTN via @amazon
Click to expand...
I just ordered one of these. There is a 10 percent cupon now attached to it. One thing you have to do is to make sure you can put the terminals onto your bike's battery. Sometimes a bit of selective grinding is needed, then cover with electrical tape or something.
 
According to Yuasa...the battery should be 12.7V after it is charged. If it is 12.5 or lower, it is on the way out. To test a battery...switch the kill switch on, put a voltmeter across the battery and crank the engine for 30 seconds. The voltage should stay between 9.5 and 10.5V.
 
"...My 2012 NC700X has the original battery...Hondfan"

Is yours a DCT model?
 
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