Potential pannier locking mods

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If the problem is the screw hols for the metal catches are breaking on the lids, Some JB Weld works great to hold all that together. I have fixed mine in this manner and it has held up very well for the last year, Just slather it on and retap the screw hole
 
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RedNigel
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Some JB Weld works
JB Weld and other stuff will work if the plastic screwhole pieces are still in a state where they can be reassembled with adhesives.
If they shatter into tiny pieces, you are left with nothing to work with
I put the rear one back together with epoxy and its OK
The front one in the same lid broke and the screwholes were basically shattered beyond repair
 
Joined
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JB Weld and other stuff will work if the plastic screwhole pieces are still in a state where they can be reassembled with adhesives.
If they shatter into tiny pieces, you are left with nothing to work with
I put the rear one back together with epoxy and its OK
The front one in the same lid broke and the screwholes were basically shattered beyond repair
True, but try sculpting a stud and then drill and tap it after it has set up for a while, maybe that will work. Nothing to loose at this point.
 

kenstone

Guest
The fumes of the curing locktite will make the plastic brittle as well. Not as noticeable on the more flexible stuff, but can affect the ABS stuff (like the lids). Locktite warns of this in their literature. An NT owner in here found out the hard way when he used a touch of Locktite on the windshield screws.

If I wanted to secure nuts when used with plastic I'd use a little bit of epoxy on the threads. Get the 30min stuff so it won't "go off" too soon :) And don't use too much or the heat of curing might affect the plastic.

Regardless of method the plastic will be under a bit of stress from the compression of the nut and bolt or the rivet and washer. The compression and the washers are meant to expand the area of stress from the latch itself. If only the hole is subject to the stress it will soon go oblong and then start stress fractures and finally break through.

Best is to use a full backing plate instead of just washers. You can make one from a little bit of brass or aluminum or stainless sheet metal.

Bottom line is that the extra latches have more beef behind them than the wimpy screw bosses on the large lids, no matter what you use to attach them with.
Good info, I never researched or considered the affects of loctite on plastics but it's something worth doing.

OK, I'll confess to not using loctite much, as I have a lifetime supply of thread locker that my wife gave me a few years ago.
I started using it on eye glass screws and expanded to just about everything else.
I have a gallon size ziploc bag full of little bottles of nail polish in assorted colors:eek:
And like those little dabs of yellow paint on every Japanese fastener, it shows when I use it:D
Ken
 

U20417

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JB Weld and other stuff will work if the plastic screwhole pieces are still in a state where they can be reassembled with adhesives.
If they shatter into tiny pieces, you are left with nothing to work with
I put the rear one back together with epoxy and its OK
The front one in the same lid broke and the screwholes were basically shattered beyond repair
Clay, at a minimum I would recommend filling the area in and around the screw holes on your new lids with epoxy or JB Weld before you install them. I did mine before I left on my six week camping trip last year. Had my pannier's over loaded the entire time with no cracks or failures on the lid side of any kind. Sure worth the effort!

Also be very careful when you are tightening down the lower hinge nuts on the studs. You can snap a stud real easy...don't ask me how I know.
 

Phil Tarman

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Clay, you can still buy the big lids through David Silver Spares, can't you?
 
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I second that. I did several long trips with the smaller lids. The seat was MUCH more important :) A trunk and waterproof duffel will hold a LOT of stuff :)
 
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