If you remove the right side saddlebag lid and saddlebag, you can stand next to the bike (on a lift) and actually see and put your hands on the entire rear brake caliper! This is much easier than removing the muffler or the rear wheel, especially the latter.
Having recently replaced the rear brake pads and rear tyre, I found it much easier to remove the right hand pannier (saddle bag to those of you on the left side of the pond).
Access to the brake caliper was much easier and made cleaning the pistons simple.
It's not a quick job but I don't charge myself labour and it makes the job more accessible.
Two of the Hex bolts that hold the pannier were corroded and needed some gt85 to help ease them.
Incidentally I found that the o-ring on the drive spline was worn and damaged. This was replaced along with the bearing mount one. Ms60 grease was also applied. I think the o-ring would have failed very soon allowing water in, washing the grease out. It rains here - a lot - ......
I would strongly recommend that these two o-rings are replaced when the tyre is changed. Here they cost about ?6 (UKP) for the pair. Cheap insurance.
Sorry for opening an old thread.
But I just wanted to say thanks for this advice about removing the right saddlebag.
Today I needed to install speed bleeders, change brake pads, and change brake fluid. All without changing tires.
So I took this suggested route of removing the right saddlebag.
Although it was rather time consuming to get the saddlebag off. It made a world of difference !
I also had to remove two other body panels; grab rail center cover + side cover / pivot cover; and right grab rail.
And while disconnecting the cable for the saddlebag release; I managed to cause a crack in the saddlebag under the grab rail. :frown:
But overall; I'm glad I removed the saddlebag to do this work.
May even remove it when changing the rear tire.
So thanks for the advice.
--ET