Rear Brake Pad replacement? Tire removal

[ddornier]

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone has a walkthru on changing my rear brake pads. I got out there and noticed that maybe i have to take the muffler off first? Then, do I have to take off the tire too? Any pics or a walkthru would be much appreciated. A link to youtube or similar would be awesome also.
Thanks,
Damian

 

[Herb]

The rear brake pad pin can be accessed without removing the muffler, but it's tricky to get the allen wrench in place to remove the reataining pin and hard to push on the caliper pistons to retract to fit the new wider pads with the muffler obstructing things. Unless you're experienced, it might be safer to remove the muffler. Also, if you're going to do work on your bike yourself, buying a manual will really pay off in the end. Good luck.

 

[seagrass]

The muffler needs to be removed for various maintenance tasks on the NT700V including removing the rear wheel.

Some owners report a fair amount of difficulty removing the muffler for the first time (and I believe the longer you leave it the harder it is to remove) so it may be wise to bite the bullet (so to speak) and remove the muffler this time so it is easier next time.

This will make it easier to get access to the brake pads too.

Seagrass

 

[DirtFlier]

If you remove the right side saddlebag lid and saddlebag, you can stand next to the bike (on a lift) and actually see and put your hands on the entire rear brake caliper! This is much easier than removing the muffler or the rear wheel, especially the latter.

 

[dlb]

I found replacing the rear brake pads to be one of the easier maintenance activities for the bike.
two tips:
1) find an old hex wrench and cut off the short end so that you have a piece of straight hex stock, then use in combination with a socket/rachet/torque wrench to remove/insert the locking pin.
2) reach through the left side of the rear tire and squeeze the caliper assembly - - it makes it real easy to recess the pistons back into the caliper.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wisoWnk--pc

 

[RedNigel]

Look at the tach and speedo and listen closely to the bike in the audio...two different rides!

Still, good info on the brakes, Dave

 

[garhod]

Even though this is an old post I wanted to confirm for someone else's benefit that above advice is truly the easiest approach. I used a 5MM allen wrench (about 3" in length) and cut the end off so that it could fit into a 1/4" drive socket. I was able to back out the retaining pin, the old pads were easy to pull out at that point. One side of the pads is shaped so that it will lock into place, while the other side has a place were the retaining pin will key it secure. If I remember correctly I just used a large screw driver as a pry bar to press the piston back into the cylinder to make room for the new pads. Just confirming there is no need to take off the wheel, muffler or saddlebags.
Gary

 

[DirtFlier]

I will freely admit that I rarely look for shortcuts when working on my bike since I don't have to beat flat rate. I'm retired so taking a little more time is OK and I'd much rather have the caliper in my hands, clean & inspect everything, grease the sliding pins, etc.

 

[Macka]

Even though this is an old post I wanted to confirm for someone else's benefit that above advice is truly the easiest approach. I used a 5MM allen wrench (about 3" in length) and cut the end off so that it could fit into a 1/4" drive socket. I was able to back out the retaining pin, the old pads were easy to pull out at that point. One side of the pads is shaped so that it will lock into place, while the other side has a place were the retaining pin will key it secure. If I remember correctly I just used a large screw driver as a pry bar to press the piston back into the cylinder to make room for the new pads. Just confirming there is no need to take off the wheel, muffler or saddlebags.
Gary

This is correct. I use the same method regularly to inspect and clean the pads. It is a 5 minute job.

Macka

 

[DirtFlier]

When the pads get thin and near replacement, the exposed portion of the piston collects a lot of crud. I always clean that area with brake cleaner and a soft metal brush to prevent crud from getting into the seal when I push the piston back into the caliper.

 

[ett]

When the pads get thin and near replacement, the exposed portion of the piston collects a lot of crud. I always clean that area with brake cleaner and a soft metal brush to prevent crud from getting into the seal when I push the piston back into the caliper.

Same here. Except I use a tooth brush.

--ET

Edit:
I just re-read your post.
I don't do the same.

I use brake fluid on the tooth brush when I scrub the pistons.
That's in addition to first spraying everything with brake cleaner.

 

[bicyclist]

Same here. Except I use a tooth brush.

--ET

Doesn't that make it taste bad?

 

[ett]

Doesn't that make it taste bad?

Depends upon whether you have a sweet tooth or like things spicy. :wink:

 

[bogbody]

Having recently replaced the rear brake pads and rear tyre, I found it much easier to remove the right hand pannier (saddle bag to those of you on the left side of the pond).
Access to the brake caliper was much easier and made cleaning the pistons simple.
It's not a quick job but I don't charge myself labour and it makes the job more accessible.
Two of the Hex bolts that hold the pannier were corroded and needed some gt85 to help ease them.
Incidentally I found that the o-ring on the drive spline was worn and damaged. This was replaced along with the bearing mount one. Ms60 grease was also applied. I think the o-ring would have failed very soon allowing water in, washing the grease out. It rains here - a lot - ......
I would strongly recommend that these two o-rings are replaced when the tyre is changed. Here they cost about ?6 (UKP) for the pair. Cheap insurance.

 

[DirtFlier]

[...I found it much easier to remove the right hand pannier...Access to the brake caliper was much easier and made cleaning the pistons simple...]


Finally someone who agrees with my method! Being able to SEE and touch all the parts makes the job 200% easier!

 

[ett]

If you remove the right side saddlebag lid and saddlebag, you can stand next to the bike (on a lift) and actually see and put your hands on the entire rear brake caliper! This is much easier than removing the muffler or the rear wheel, especially the latter.

Having recently replaced the rear brake pads and rear tyre, I found it much easier to remove the right hand pannier (saddle bag to those of you on the left side of the pond).
Access to the brake caliper was much easier and made cleaning the pistons simple.
It's not a quick job but I don't charge myself labour and it makes the job more accessible.
Two of the Hex bolts that hold the pannier were corroded and needed some gt85 to help ease them.
Incidentally I found that the o-ring on the drive spline was worn and damaged. This was replaced along with the bearing mount one. Ms60 grease was also applied. I think the o-ring would have failed very soon allowing water in, washing the grease out. It rains here - a lot - ......
I would strongly recommend that these two o-rings are replaced when the tyre is changed. Here they cost about ?6 (UKP) for the pair. Cheap insurance.

Sorry for opening an old thread.
But I just wanted to say thanks for this advice about removing the right saddlebag.

Today I needed to install speed bleeders, change brake pads, and change brake fluid. All without changing tires.
So I took this suggested route of removing the right saddlebag.

Although it was rather time consuming to get the saddlebag off. It made a world of difference !
I also had to remove two other body panels; grab rail center cover + side cover / pivot cover; and right grab rail.
And while disconnecting the cable for the saddlebag release; I managed to cause a crack in the saddlebag under the grab rail. :frown:

But overall; I'm glad I removed the saddlebag to do this work.
May even remove it when changing the rear tire.

So thanks for the advice.

--ET

 

[DirtFlier]

Since I discovered this method (right saddlebag removed) I've always used it when removing the rear wheel for a tire change.

And the first time I did use the service manual method of removing the muffler then swore to never do it again. With the muffler off, you do have a bit more access but being able to align everything "blind" is a real hassle and it made me wonder if everything was OK. Also, with the bike on its centerstand and me on a garage creeper, I've found that I don't have much leverage...obviously another sign of old age! :-(

ps. one other advantage of removing the saddlebag is that with the saddlebag on the workbench, you can easily remove the latching mechanism for that side, clean & relube using something light such as silicone spray.