Rear wheel removal and exhaust

[mikthebik]

Finally back to fettling on the NT after much vintage Japanese bike resto work. As per earlier posts, I bought the bike back in June and rode it back home from
Eugene, OR to San Diego. Bike now has roughly 5000 miles.

Intentions are to change both tires (from the original Bridgestones), inspect the rear end, grease the splines, add Hyperpro fork springs, add external
pannier locks, and finally do a valve check. The PO did not know whether the original shop ever did the first check. It was a demo bike he bought
with less than 4K miles on it. I've already added an Admore light kit to the Givi top box and cleaned up some wiring I felt was not to my standards.
I've also found some miss-assembly of some of the bodywork, missing hardware in the panniers and missing rear muffler bolt.

First step was to the the bike up on the lift, which was at the limit of my 74 YO bod and hindered by the left pannier lid. Had to use the engine
assist method. Will invite a younger friend over for a safer 2 person removal.

I had planned to remove the rear wheel without muffler removal, but ran into corrosion between the axle and shaft that prevented me pushing the axle
out in that tight space. This led me to start the exhaust removal as per Soundtechguy's video advice. However I figured I might be able to get to the
exhaust clamp bolts under the front of the shield by just removing the front 2 shield bolts and moving it about. Some of you may have done this,
but haven't seen any reports to that effect. Sure enough, the clamp bolts can be easily loosed, without removing the shield or the peg mount per
his instruction. Once loosened and the other exhaust bolts removed, the exhaust can be swung a couple of inches aside and the top rear shield
bolt accessed for shield removal (makes it easier if you have to manhandle the exhaust out). For the next tire change I should be able to just loosen
the clamps and bolts, then swing the exhaust out to provide access for rear axle and caliper removal (once the axle is thoroughly greased). In this case,
I wiggled the exhaust free (side to side works, up and down does not). That provided the access to drive out the axle. Once removed there was some
rust on the right side of the axle and inside the spacers that was not allowing easy removal. Oregon is a very wet place to live..
A new Dunlop Roadsmart III (took advantage of the $75 rebate) is mounted and wheel ready to install. Front end next, then the valve check.

 

[ARKNT]

Sounds like you probably are but if there was enough water to rust the axle and spacers, I would give the wheel bearings and seals a closer check than normal. Water in there would not be your friend.

Brad

 

[mikthebik]

Sounds like you probably are but if there was enough water to rust the axle and spacers, I would give the wheel bearings and seals a closer check than normal. Water in there would not be your friend.

Brad

Isn't a huge amount of rust, but enough to be concerning. Definitely will check everything in the wheel and final, including bearings. Thanks..

 

[DirtFlier]

In all my rear tire changes (probably 6-times), I've only removed the muffler once. What I didn't like about removing the muffler was getting it back on. Everything is a nice, shiny visible surface so it's not as if you want to wail on it with a hammer to get it into place.

Now, I merely undo the two muffler/exhaust hanger bolts - one is upfront near the engine oil dipstick and the other is back by the passenger footpeg. This will allow the muffler to move enough to the outside to make bolt removal easier. The one you need clearance for is the special "pin bolt" that secures the brake caliper mount. Plus, I remove the right saddlebag & lid so I can SEE everything without having to blindly grope!

ps. Whenever I remove the rear wheel, I always clean the surface of the axle with steel wool and apply a generous coating of grease to prevent rust from forming. Having the axle free to turn without undue drag makes it possible for me to attach a torque wrench to the hex head of the axle and not the nut on the opposite end where clearance is extremely tight.

 

[mikthebik]

Exactly my plan for future changes DirtFlier. I guess the rust present was a function of age (wheel had never been off) and Oregon humidity. Did surprise me that there was no evidence of any grease from factory assembly.

Question about the muffler itself. Mine sounds like there are a few small marbles rattling around when moved. Believe it’s a sign some of the cat honeycomb has come loose. Anyone else notice that when removed? Doubt if it will affect engine’s efficiency or reliability, but am open to rebuttal.

 

[DirtFlier]

Be sure to clean and grease the driven splines with Moly 60 while the rear wheel is removed!

 

[mikthebik]

Be sure to clean and grease the driven splines with Moly 60 while the rear wheel is removed!

Will do. As a noob, with no Moly 60 available, I sourced the 77 and Loctite 8012. After searching shafty and ADV forums, I plan to go with the Loctite.

 

[DirtFlier]

I've only bought two tubes of Moly 60 over the past 20-25 years and only recently broke into the 2nd tube. It's rare stuff now! Until I bought my NC700X/w DCT, all my Honda road bikes (VT500FT, PC800, and NT700V) had shaft drive. By coincidence, all of them have 2-cyl engines and 3 out of the 4 are V-twins.

I bought a bag of "ice cream" sticks long ago for things such as mixing 2-part epoxy. The also work great for applying the Moly 60 but I still wear disposable gloves because moly on your fingers takes a long time to remove!

They are saying it'll be 57 this Sunday so I'm going for a ride with pals after 2-3 weeks of non-riding because of freezing temps.

 

[mikthebik]

I've only bought two tubes of Moly 60 over the past 20-25 years and only recently broke into the 2nd tube. It's rare stuff now! Until I bought my NC700X/w DCT, all my Honda road bikes (VT500FT, PC800, and NT700V) had shaft drive. By coincidence, all of them have 2-cyl engines and 3 out of the 4 are V-twins.

I bought a bag of "ice cream" sticks long ago for things such as mixing 2-part epoxy. The also work great for applying the Moly 60 but I still wear disposable gloves because moly on your fingers takes a long time to remove!

Used to use ice cream sticks, but found wooden coffee stirrers, which are about half the width of the IC sticks. Work much better for me, especially getting into tight areas. Hobbytown USA 5 minute epoxy(fuel and vibration proof, great stuff) and JB Weld are my 2 go to products.

Got the rear wheel back on yesterday, after wire brushing and sanding off rust on the axle and spacers. Had to use a circular file to get the rust inside the long spacer inside the final drive. Loctite moly on the splines and Lucas wheel bearing grease slathered on the axle - spacer surfaces.

Just got the front wheel off, tire mounted and the forks off and drained. I'll be installing the Hyperpros tomorrow and get as far as I can getting the front wheel, muffler rear fender etc. back together. Then it's on to the valve adjustment and redoing some wiring to the front.

Have a great ride tomorrow!