JGC
Guest
I have posted this in reply else where but thought it might be useful here too, there is a longish thread on the UK forum in Mechanical section (FAQ) which some might find handy to look at. You do have to be a registered member to look in that section so I have not posted the link. The below article is the first posting of that thread.
Hope you folks find it handy:smile:
rear wheel removal
by Stephen McGuigan ? 24 Feb 2008, 01:04
As a result of 2 punctures with my dv700, I have now had to remove the wheel twice and can honestly say I could now do it in my sleep.
I did removal/installation single handed but it would be significantly easier with a second person to help.
A second person could take photos for posting but single handed photos would be the last thing on your mind.
I will lay out the steps as I see it and hopefully this will help others.
this note is applicable to dv650 and 700 for the main bit.
There are 3 main hurdles
1. getting off rear fender
Unless you have access to a ramp that will allow the rear wheel to drop down when released, the rear fender has to come off.
I never had to take this off 650 but suspect it is easier than 700.
2. Taking off big nut holding spindle in place
3. removing / replacing wheel
If you get a puncture then all 3 have to be done.
this is probably a bit daunting for many, I suggest that 1 and 2 could be done anytime you have some free time so that when (if) it has to be done for real then the task will be much easier.
1 rear fender
the instructions in the manual are correct, though the first time you will doubt them.
open both panniers and remove 3 bolts each side.
the fender has 2 lugs near the top and the edges are tucked behind the edges of the panniers.
if you grab the bottom of the fender and squeeze the sides in (causing the middle to bulge out), you can free one edge then the other.
When free it will tilt up, you can the pull it backwards to free lugs and also twist out number plate light fitment.
It was a lot easier 2nd time, hopefully there will not be a 3rd.
to replace, the manual states that you should remove another 1 bolt each side and 1 screw.
This I suspect gives you a bit of extra play to 'wiggle' it in, though why don't they suggest taking them off for removal.
The first time you do it, it may well seem difficult, but you persevere, you will then realise that it is a 15minute task to remove and then replace.
2 rear wheel spindle nut
You do not need to take of silencer or any bodywork
A small (length) ring spanner and extension bar is supplied in the tool kit.
I think it is 27mm but am too tired to go out to garage and check.
If you have a 'real' open or ring spanner available i.e. a good length for applying a decent torque then you will have no problems.
I priced one and it was about ?20, I was too mean to buy it.
I could not release the nut with the given spanner, so I had to use my socket set, I had to remove the 2 rear bolts holding the silencer. These are hex bolts
- one near rear footrest, other near rear brake pedal.
Removing these allows the silencer to sway away from bike so that you can get the socket onto the nut.
Note, you are not bending/damaging the silencer in anyway doing this - if you need to do this then you will see what I mean.
When the nut is released, the toolbox spanner will suffice.
Next to this bolt is the brake caliper stop bolt. This comes right out and is a 14mm head. There are no issues with clearance. A ring spanner is fine.
there is a small spindle clamp bolt which grips the spindle. This gets released if you wish to extract the spindle.
Again, this is an exercise you can do, just to get the hang of it, you do not need to take the wheel off.
Tightening is just the reverse, remembering to bolt the silencer again, if you have not treated yourself to the big spanner.
There was a fierce debate before about torque settings.
I do not torque nuts - I don't have torque wrench
I give then a good turn with available spanner and if it is something important, I check at the end of each run for the next few days and then weekly till I get bored.
I tightened the wheel spindle nut with the small given spanner last time but still needed to use my big socket set to get it off.
If you want to torque it, then you will have to free the silencer as I did. If the silencer was higher or set wider, this would not be an issue.
Someone also mentioned an 'offest' socket thing. If you have it good. I can only say what I do.
You can definitely try out the above 2 stages anytime and if you you are confident doing this then stage 3 will be a dawdle.
2. actual wheel removal.
I will illustrate this using a clock face while looking at the rear wheel from the silencer side.
take off rear fender, and remove rear spindle nut, caliper stop bolt and loosen spindle pinch bolt.
do not take out spindle just yet.
get you second person ready.
you be on the silencer side, they stand at the other side.
rotate the rear caliper housing anticlockwise as far as it will go. (about 7 - 8 o'clock position)
there is enough slack in fluid pipes for this.
When you have it at this postion, tap the free end of the spindle in and get your helper to slowly extract it from their side,
while holding the rear wheel so that it remains in the shaft housing.
When it has travelled a couple of inches, you can slip the caliiper housing of the spindle and free of the back wheel.
Hold the caliper
the spindle can now be fully withdrawn and the whell has now spac to move away from housing and free
there is a spacer between the wheel and the caliper, this will drop out when it is not the meat in the sandwich.
do not worry, it is obvious which way it goes.
when the wheel is rolled back
get you helper to put spindle back in and slide brake caliper back on and loosly fit stopper bolt.
This means that you do not have to support it while wheel is off.
There are a couple of bits that are loose bewteen the wheel and the shaft housing.
Thse are hidden till the wheel is free of the shaft housing.
take them out if you are taking wheel to dealer for tyre so that he does not drop them and forget to give you them back.
Trust me they are obvious when the wheel is out.
Putting wheel back on.
Remove spindle and support caliper on the silencer side of bike
roll wheel back in and slot onto shaft housing
get helper to slide in spindle, and to hold wheel firmly into shaft housing,
put back spacer when spindle is just visible through wheel
pull rear brake caliper as far round as possible (7 - 8 o'clock)
slip pads over disk and centre hole ready for spindle
push spindle fully through
and hand tighten big nut
all that is left is to put back stop bolt
and tighten everything up
and then say
SMcG is the man for me
Hope you folks find it handy:smile:
rear wheel removal
by Stephen McGuigan ? 24 Feb 2008, 01:04
As a result of 2 punctures with my dv700, I have now had to remove the wheel twice and can honestly say I could now do it in my sleep.
I did removal/installation single handed but it would be significantly easier with a second person to help.
A second person could take photos for posting but single handed photos would be the last thing on your mind.
I will lay out the steps as I see it and hopefully this will help others.
this note is applicable to dv650 and 700 for the main bit.
There are 3 main hurdles
1. getting off rear fender
Unless you have access to a ramp that will allow the rear wheel to drop down when released, the rear fender has to come off.
I never had to take this off 650 but suspect it is easier than 700.
2. Taking off big nut holding spindle in place
3. removing / replacing wheel
If you get a puncture then all 3 have to be done.
this is probably a bit daunting for many, I suggest that 1 and 2 could be done anytime you have some free time so that when (if) it has to be done for real then the task will be much easier.
1 rear fender
the instructions in the manual are correct, though the first time you will doubt them.
open both panniers and remove 3 bolts each side.
the fender has 2 lugs near the top and the edges are tucked behind the edges of the panniers.
if you grab the bottom of the fender and squeeze the sides in (causing the middle to bulge out), you can free one edge then the other.
When free it will tilt up, you can the pull it backwards to free lugs and also twist out number plate light fitment.
It was a lot easier 2nd time, hopefully there will not be a 3rd.
to replace, the manual states that you should remove another 1 bolt each side and 1 screw.
This I suspect gives you a bit of extra play to 'wiggle' it in, though why don't they suggest taking them off for removal.
The first time you do it, it may well seem difficult, but you persevere, you will then realise that it is a 15minute task to remove and then replace.
2 rear wheel spindle nut
You do not need to take of silencer or any bodywork
A small (length) ring spanner and extension bar is supplied in the tool kit.
I think it is 27mm but am too tired to go out to garage and check.
If you have a 'real' open or ring spanner available i.e. a good length for applying a decent torque then you will have no problems.
I priced one and it was about ?20, I was too mean to buy it.
I could not release the nut with the given spanner, so I had to use my socket set, I had to remove the 2 rear bolts holding the silencer. These are hex bolts
- one near rear footrest, other near rear brake pedal.
Removing these allows the silencer to sway away from bike so that you can get the socket onto the nut.
Note, you are not bending/damaging the silencer in anyway doing this - if you need to do this then you will see what I mean.
When the nut is released, the toolbox spanner will suffice.
Next to this bolt is the brake caliper stop bolt. This comes right out and is a 14mm head. There are no issues with clearance. A ring spanner is fine.
there is a small spindle clamp bolt which grips the spindle. This gets released if you wish to extract the spindle.
Again, this is an exercise you can do, just to get the hang of it, you do not need to take the wheel off.
Tightening is just the reverse, remembering to bolt the silencer again, if you have not treated yourself to the big spanner.
There was a fierce debate before about torque settings.
I do not torque nuts - I don't have torque wrench
I give then a good turn with available spanner and if it is something important, I check at the end of each run for the next few days and then weekly till I get bored.
I tightened the wheel spindle nut with the small given spanner last time but still needed to use my big socket set to get it off.
If you want to torque it, then you will have to free the silencer as I did. If the silencer was higher or set wider, this would not be an issue.
Someone also mentioned an 'offest' socket thing. If you have it good. I can only say what I do.
You can definitely try out the above 2 stages anytime and if you you are confident doing this then stage 3 will be a dawdle.
2. actual wheel removal.
I will illustrate this using a clock face while looking at the rear wheel from the silencer side.
take off rear fender, and remove rear spindle nut, caliper stop bolt and loosen spindle pinch bolt.
do not take out spindle just yet.
get you second person ready.
you be on the silencer side, they stand at the other side.
rotate the rear caliper housing anticlockwise as far as it will go. (about 7 - 8 o'clock position)
there is enough slack in fluid pipes for this.
When you have it at this postion, tap the free end of the spindle in and get your helper to slowly extract it from their side,
while holding the rear wheel so that it remains in the shaft housing.
When it has travelled a couple of inches, you can slip the caliiper housing of the spindle and free of the back wheel.
Hold the caliper
the spindle can now be fully withdrawn and the whell has now spac to move away from housing and free
there is a spacer between the wheel and the caliper, this will drop out when it is not the meat in the sandwich.
do not worry, it is obvious which way it goes.
when the wheel is rolled back
get you helper to put spindle back in and slide brake caliper back on and loosly fit stopper bolt.
This means that you do not have to support it while wheel is off.
There are a couple of bits that are loose bewteen the wheel and the shaft housing.
Thse are hidden till the wheel is free of the shaft housing.
take them out if you are taking wheel to dealer for tyre so that he does not drop them and forget to give you them back.
Trust me they are obvious when the wheel is out.
Putting wheel back on.
Remove spindle and support caliper on the silencer side of bike
roll wheel back in and slot onto shaft housing
get helper to slide in spindle, and to hold wheel firmly into shaft housing,
put back spacer when spindle is just visible through wheel
pull rear brake caliper as far round as possible (7 - 8 o'clock)
slip pads over disk and centre hole ready for spindle
push spindle fully through
and hand tighten big nut
all that is left is to put back stop bolt
and tighten everything up
and then say
SMcG is the man for me
