Removing rear wheel on ABS 2011 NT
I just replaced my OEM tires with PR3s . . . and wanted to get this note here before I go to test them. The sun is shining and it's 66 degrees here, so I won't be back any time soon . . . if I didn't screw something up.
Anyway, the front wheel was very easy . . . but the rear was a real challenge. After hours of trying different things I think I found the solution and want to share it here. The wheel went back on in about twenty minutes. I think it would have taken even less to remove it had I done the below initially. For those without a lift with a drop gate for the rear wheel, many here have described clever ways to accomplish the same thing.
Rear Wheel removal
1. Place on lift, support the bike and drop rear wheel gate (or whatever method you use to get clearance).
2. Loosen exhaust system by taking nut from bolt near rear footrest (a large fender washer will probably fall out, so watch for it) and by loosening a bolt near rear brake pedal.
3. Loosen the axle nut, axle pinch bolt, and caliper assembly stopper bolts.
4. Remove axle nut and pull (or push) axle to the left enough so the caliper assembly can be rotated up and forward, pivoting on the stopper bolt.
5. Remove the collar from the dust seal by pulling it to the right. This will make room for next two steps.
6. Remove the pulse disk from the wheel (three torx bolts).
7. Remove the brake disk from the wheel (six bolts).
8. Remove the stopper bolt and rotate the caliper assembly toward the back of the bike until it can be laid over the top of the right axle support and fasten with string or cable tie.
9. Remove axle.
10. Wheel can now be moved to the right to clear the splines and dropped out of bike.
Be sure to torque everything you can according to specs when replacing the wheel, and use loctite where appropriate (especially the disk and pulse disk bolts, and double especially the stopper bolt).
I just replaced my OEM tires with PR3s . . . and wanted to get this note here before I go to test them. The sun is shining and it's 66 degrees here, so I won't be back any time soon . . . if I didn't screw something up.
Anyway, the front wheel was very easy . . . but the rear was a real challenge. After hours of trying different things I think I found the solution and want to share it here. The wheel went back on in about twenty minutes. I think it would have taken even less to remove it had I done the below initially. For those without a lift with a drop gate for the rear wheel, many here have described clever ways to accomplish the same thing.
Rear Wheel removal
1. Place on lift, support the bike and drop rear wheel gate (or whatever method you use to get clearance).
2. Loosen exhaust system by taking nut from bolt near rear footrest (a large fender washer will probably fall out, so watch for it) and by loosening a bolt near rear brake pedal.
3. Loosen the axle nut, axle pinch bolt, and caliper assembly stopper bolts.
4. Remove axle nut and pull (or push) axle to the left enough so the caliper assembly can be rotated up and forward, pivoting on the stopper bolt.
5. Remove the collar from the dust seal by pulling it to the right. This will make room for next two steps.
6. Remove the pulse disk from the wheel (three torx bolts).
7. Remove the brake disk from the wheel (six bolts).
8. Remove the stopper bolt and rotate the caliper assembly toward the back of the bike until it can be laid over the top of the right axle support and fasten with string or cable tie.
9. Remove axle.
10. Wheel can now be moved to the right to clear the splines and dropped out of bike.
Be sure to torque everything you can according to specs when replacing the wheel, and use loctite where appropriate (especially the disk and pulse disk bolts, and double especially the stopper bolt).
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