I find it necessary to replace the Key Lock . Does one also have to replace the fuel tank lock ? and what about the mechanism to open the pannier lid ? Has anyone needed to to do this , and what is involved ? Any advice on this matter would be appreciated.
Replace Ignition Key lock?
- Thread starter charlie
- Start date
Charlie, If you want, you could keep your current key for the left storage compartment, your fuel tank, and your pannier lock. You'd just need to replace the ignition key.
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
Honda installs the ignition switch using two 8 mm, anti-tamper screws that must be drilled out for switch replacement. The screw head has a shoulders that allow installation at the factory using a special tool but only slip when going in the other direction. You should be able to reach those screws from underneath but it won't be a fun project so have plenty of sharp drill bits on hand!
ps. the switch is only available as a set with the other locks: gas cap, saddlebag, and map pocket. :-(
ps. the switch is only available as a set with the other locks: gas cap, saddlebag, and map pocket. :-(
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Advice from a Cheapskate
With a little care, it is possible to remove the innards of most locks in a way that at first glance they appear to be whole. They may then be operated with any similarly shape/size key.
If you set out with that objective, it is most likely that dirt will be the cause of the malfunction. The answer will be dismantle, clean and lubricate. Locks require a dry lubricant such as PTFE powder. Oil dries and becomes sticky. Add environmental dust and mechanisms clog, ceasing to work.
Often, it is possible to remove anti-tamper bolts with gentle tangential tapping from a centre punch. However, access is the issue. Have some machine screws to hand. DirtFlyer says 8M and that sounds about right. In these circumstances, do not bother with the more expensive anti-tamper screws. I would go for Allen cap head machine screws.
With a little care, it is possible to remove the innards of most locks in a way that at first glance they appear to be whole. They may then be operated with any similarly shape/size key.
If you set out with that objective, it is most likely that dirt will be the cause of the malfunction. The answer will be dismantle, clean and lubricate. Locks require a dry lubricant such as PTFE powder. Oil dries and becomes sticky. Add environmental dust and mechanisms clog, ceasing to work.
Often, it is possible to remove anti-tamper bolts with gentle tangential tapping from a centre punch. However, access is the issue. Have some machine screws to hand. DirtFlyer says 8M and that sounds about right. In these circumstances, do not bother with the more expensive anti-tamper screws. I would go for Allen cap head machine screws.
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
We were on a cross-country trip several years ago and the ignition lock on my friend's bike locked solid so we were stuck outside the restaurant. He called a locksmith and luckily caught the guy who came fairly quickly.
He got the lock working again and said one thing "DO NOT SPRAY WD-40 INTO THE LOCK!" I've been using silicone spray ever since and only sparingly.
He got the lock working again and said one thing "DO NOT SPRAY WD-40 INTO THE LOCK!" I've been using silicone spray ever since and only sparingly.
mikesim
Site Supporter
I recommend a lock lubricant such as Lock Ease. It is a spray with a tiny straw to insert into the lock mechanism. The spray is discharged as a liquid but the liquid is quite volatile, evaporating quickly leaving a dry residue of graphite/PTFE powder. I do all my locks in the fall, prior to winter as it prevents locks from freezing up.
Mike
Mike