I just changed my pads yesterday, and I understand your problem. For the front pads, with the bike on the center stand, I used a "Ridgid" brand strap wrench that has nylon straps which I wrapped around the shock and used with a small block of wood to press against the caliper. I was sitting on a small rolling stool and could hold the tire with my other hand while doing this. Apply pressure and hold it for several seconds . . . it takes time to force the brake fluid back into the reservoir. You could also use a hammer handle and a belt plus a block of wood for this. You will need a 8 mm socket to pull the pin.
The rear is more fun. The first problem I ran into was removing the pin, which in this case requires a long 5 mm hex drive tool of some sort. All of mine were too short and I was forced to use a plain allen wrench, torquing by hand when I got done . . . which I don't like to do. I plan to fix this problem the next time I visit Harbour Freight with a "long" set of metric hex drive to 3/8" drive tools. Torque wrenches are a very good idea, especially when putting bolts into aluminum. Once you have the pin loosened, a bit of board about ten inches long by 1" x 4" will fit above the exhaust muffler and under the pannier to press against the caliper. I used my knee against the board with a rag wadded up for a pad, and pulled against the bike where ever I could get a hold on it. Again, the key is to apply pressure and hold it.
Once you get the calipers pressed in removing the pins is easy and will allow the pads to rotate out easily in all cases. I used EBC pads this time (they have more effective area), and so far like them a lot. BUT the front ones do not come with the clip on shims, so you must retrieve them from the old set. I also think it is very good practice to use some stiff silicone grease (NAPA Sil-Glyde, for example) between the brake shim and the steel backing of the brake pad. Once this grease is applied you wipe off all excess. The grease acts as a vibration damper and usually eliminates high frequency brake noise.
When putting in the new pads, first insert the pin to where it is close to where the pad will be, insert the first pad and feel for the spring it is intended to push against, inside where you can't see it. Once you feel you are properly positioned, push the pin in through the hole in the pad just enough to hold the first pad in place. Then insert the second pad the same way and finish pushing in the pin. Tighten and torque to specs. It really is that easy!
All in all, I was impressed by the design of these brakes, and changing the pads is very easy once you have done it once. Which is a good thing for me, as I only had 17.5 K miles on the OEM pads, and the right front pads were less than a single mm in thickness, but all others were only about half worn. I think I understand why this happened, and just wish Honda had when they engineered the system. I think they could have used smaller pistons on the right side front brakes, adjusting the piston area ratios between right and left to equalize the braking forces . . . but they didn't. My NT is my commuter bike and sees a lot of stop and go city traffic.
Hope this is useful,
Bill
