Ride back to San Diego from Lowell, OR on the new NT

Joined
May 3, 2018
Messages
37
Location
Ramona, CA USA
Wed. June 6, flew into Eugene. Next day, Don Bennett, the now previous owner picked me up at the hotel and we drove to his home in Lowell to
inspect the 2010 Silver VAB (SN 00024) with 4500 miles I'd flown in to purchase. After some instruction and an enthusiastic thumbs up, the deal was done. Luckily, Delta saw fit to deliver my checked duffel with my optional equipment. Everything from the duffel and carry-on was stored in the panniers and top box, with all my clothing stowed in the CabinMax carry-on Rok Strapped to the passenger seat. Worked great. Called Progressive to get the insurance done and downloaded the insurance ID on my phone.

So on June 7 after only 1 1/2 hours at Don's house, I was off, learning the new bike and enjoying the great scenery on the Willamette Hwy toward Oakridge, a short 25 miles away for my first night. I had know idea when the deal would be done, so booked the first night close. Rode beyond Oakridge another 35 miles and back to get more seat time before I checked in to the AAA rated Cascade Motel. Pleasant, well maintained and very basic.

Off at a leisurely 7:30 the next morning, I headed for Crater Lake. Didn't realize how cold it would be, and only had my mesh jacket with thermal vest on. Pulled into the Rim Village Center and immediately went for coffee and a muffin in the cafe. Once thawed I purchased my obligatory National Park ball cap for Crater Lake.

Back to the bike and ready to roll, the starter button produced no action... Hmm, new battery, voltage and all the dash lights OK..
A couple of years ago, a tipover on my VStrom jostled the clutch interlock switch, rendering it inoperable. Starter would not function.
Had no wire with us, so a paper clip was found and used to jumper the 2 clutch switch leads to get things going. The switch on the NT was also disabled, likely from the bike sitting for years in the Oregon atmosphere. Note to self, and others, using stainless steel safety wire is not advised to make a jumper wire. It's not magnetic and that lack of FE evidently discourages electron flow. Using my VOM to measure resistance between the leads allowed the starter to activate and gave me the lesson re: SS wire. With an appropriate jumper I was on my way but decided to forgo the detour to Lassen after wasting an hour on my electrical lesson. Rolled into Susanville, CA about 4PM Fri, June 8 to the River Inn.

That evening looked at the weather forecast for the next leg to Bishop. High winds were expected most of the way down 395 to Bishop, building throughout the day. A bit unusual to have winds on 395 that far north. With that in mind got up early, had a granola bar breakfast and got away at 6:30.. Boogied as best I could, with intermittent gusty winds. Had about 4 butt pucker moments, but the wind effect was much more pronounced on the rider than the bike. I was impressed with it's stability, both in the gusting winds and it's lack of reaction to wind wakes of oncoming semis. It is much more stable than the VStrom. Got into the Bishop Travel Lodge just before 1PM. Settled in and had my one meal of the day mid afternoon at Jack's, a local diner nearby. Great burger and potato salad. Hungry I was.

South of Bishop, I was expecting much warmer weather, but looking at nest day's weather, it appeared I might get lucky with temps in the mid 80s. With that in mind I delayed my departure til about 8AM. From Bishop, the trip to Yucca (Yucka) Valley was uneventful and pretty boring the further South I rode. Rolled into the Best Western Joshua Tree about 2PM. Definitely the best hotel of the trip. A 12' Subway Cold Cut Combo made for lunch and dinner along with chips and a few tots of Jameson. Enjoyed a slack evening with Blade Runner 2049. Got to sleep rather late at 10 PM.

This morning, June 11, had a nice Best Western sausage & eggs breakfast, then made a leisurely departure at about 8AM for the short 170 mile ride home. The first hour, temps got into the mid 90s. but cooled off into the mid 80s as elevation increased on the Pines to Palms Highway (in my case palms to pines), a great set of twisties heading south and rising out of Palm Desert. Rolled into the homestead around 11....

NT700 at Home.jpg

Observations about the bike, and questions...

..The stock seat puts pressure on the inside of the upper thighs. Am hoping my current choice of a Sargents (from MC Larry) will relieve that irritation

..There is a definite whiff of fuel now and then, especially when in a crosswind and when the tank is fullest. There is an SSR spin on fuel cap system installed. Has anyone experienced fuel smell like this and found the issue.

..There are lowering pegs installed (not MC Larry) that I will remove. Nice pegs, but they (and it appears Larry's do also) move the foot rest area around 3/4" or so outboard. Makes using both levers very awkward to me. Luckily he still had stock pegs, that will be re-installed.

..The Cee Bailey plus 4 shield is a mixed bag. More turbulence than I'd expect at lower settings, but OK when top is just below eye level where it is probably designed to be. I just like a low shield at times.

..Enjoy the handling and engine. Drivetrain is a bit noisy, but I expected that. Shifting is smooth, but somewhat clunky (only noticed when riding to fetch food with no earplugs.

..I managed to break the left pannier rear latch tower. Thought I was being pretty gentle. Noticed it this morning as I was loading. got it closed with the front latch and gorilla taped the rear. Will epoxy it tomorrow and add some to the other latches. It still has the original Honda sticky goo on the grease points. I'm convinced that contributed to the issue. Will remove and apply silicone as suggested. Am going to order some Franzen external latches. Has anyone used the keyed latches? Combination style locks have a bad history with me, but may go that way.

..While on the pannier subject, the security straps on my lids are 2 different sizes. One side has 10" straps (right) and the other has 14" (left). If they should be different lengths, it seems to be they should be reversed to account for being opened on the side stand.

Think I've rambled on enough, but am really glad I got to make the trip. Enjoyed meeting with Don. Enjoyed the trip back and am looking forward to making some changes that will fit my bod and style.
 

Woodaddict

Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
895
Age
64
Location
Salisbury,NC
2024 Mileage
009272
Bike
Red NT700V & Spyder RTL
the short saddlebag straps of 10" on right will keep lid from hitting exhaust
 

Phil Tarman

Site Supporter
Moderator
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
9,372
Age
81
Location
Greeley, CO
Bike
2010 Silver NT700VA (ABS)
Mike, I'm glad you had such a good ride home! Thanks for sharing the report.

A couple of observations: 1) You may not be able to get a Sargent's seat from Motorcycle Larry -- sounds like his daughter has quit doing business even if the website is still there. You could do business directly with Sargent's. You might have to buy a stock saddle unless you want to be without the bike for two-three weeks. But Sargent's can advise you on that.

2) I've never smelt fuel while riding the bike, but I've still got the OEM fuel cap on my bike.

3) I've got Franzen combination latches but haven't gotten them mounted yet. It's been on my to-do list for a long time.

4) I had the CeeBailey +4" screen for a long time. I agree that it worked best when it was adjusted to a level just below eye level. But, I had two of them break due to flexing around the mounting holes. CeeBailey replaced the first one and after the second one, I moved on to the V-Stream screen from National Cycle. I believe it's a better fit. It is reasonably quiet and smooth at more heights and worked well even in the lowest position in the rain while on my recent trip to West Virginia and back.

5) I had MCL's peg-lowerers on my bike because of my oft-replaced knee joints but took them off after lowering the bike. I've been surprised that my knees have worked fine (or at least as "fine" as they ever work) with the increased bend without the peg-lowerers and have enjoyed having increased lean angle available, even after the bike was lowered.

4) The reason the straps in the panniers are of different lengths is to keep the right side pannier from touching the exhaust when it's open.

5) You'll enjoy the drivetrain more if you always wear ear plugs. :rofl1: It's not quiet.

Keep enjoying the bike and keep us posted!
 
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Messages
1,300
Age
50
Location
Sun Valley, CA
Bike
NT700V, NC700X, XL600R
Welcome back. Sounds like you had quite an adventure on the way back. The area south of Inyokern is always windy, sometimes all the way down to Hesperia. Hwy-14 all the way to Palmdale is not any better. :p

I am familiar with the High Desert as I grew up in an area called Lake LA. It's right next to Edward AFB and the edge of God's Country.

HighDesert.JPG
 

DirtFlier

Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
3,345
Location
Troy, OH
Bike
2010 Silver NT700V/ABS
Removing "the Honda sticky goo" from the latch mechanism will require taking off the saddlebag lid and saddlebag. With the seat removed, you'll find it impossible to see and reach all the pivot points of the mechanism. I've also found that using brake cleaner on those points will result in the melted grease & brake cleaner combination making a permanent, whittish stain on the external portions of the saddlebag body. :shrug2:

It would also be good to partially remove the rear wheel so you can grease the driven splines with Moly 60.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
1,295
Location
Arkansas
Bike
2020 Kawasaki Versys
Too bad you have to fix the latches after just getting the bike. Reinforcing is a good idea.
Dirtflyer's comment about rear splines is a good idea unless you know they have been properly molyied up recently. Also important to use the correct grease there.

I would correct your starter interlock also. Does the neutral indicator work correctly? The NT will still start without the clutch and sidestand swithes as long as the transmission is in neutral.

Enjoy the new bike,
Brad
 
Joined
May 1, 2013
Messages
716
Location
McAllen, Texas
Bike
2010 Silver NT700
Great ride report - I like your writing style. You had a nice 1k ride to break in the new bike. As you have found out, the NT excels at long distances.

We're getting to the point where every NT owner has issues with the panniers. Suggest you take a look at http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/showthread.php?8841-Pannier-Latch-Solution and see if it fits your requirements.

As to the Cee Bailey screen - I too had two of them shatter, one of them catastrophically at 70 mph. While their customer service was excellent, I finally gave up and went to the V-Stream. So far, it has been bullet proof.

I agree the stock seat is not the best. My solution was to go to the Russell Day-Long saddle. I have a back rest on mine, and it's great for long rides.

Enjoy the bike - and thanx for posting your ride report.
 
OP
OP
mikthebik
Joined
May 3, 2018
Messages
37
Location
Ramona, CA USA
Removing "the Honda sticky goo" from the latch mechanism will require taking off the saddlebag lid and saddlebag. With the seat removed, you'll find it impossible to see and reach all the pivot points of the mechanism. I've also found that using brake cleaner on those points will result in the melted grease & brake cleaner combination making a permanent, whittish stain on the external portions of the saddlebag body. :shrug2:

It would also be good to partially remove the rear wheel so you can grease the driven splines with Moly 60.

Thanks.. Is Honda Moly 60 the solid choice for spine lube? I even see BMW forums recommending its use. I did see one post indicating it had been discontinued. Assuming not, any quick online sources? Price to expect?

I'm sure wheel has never been off, original BS Battleax tires are still mounted and rear ready to be replaced.
Once I get the bike to AAA this week for title xfer, it will get in the repair queue. Replace rear tire, spline lube, rear end oil check, footpeg replace, clutch switch R&R, latch fixes and ? Unfortunately, my Hawk GT is on the lift for Cush drive and chain replace, place spline lube and my Polaris Ranger, blocking the workspace area, died the Monday before I left. Foreign debris from careless mfg. original assembly took out the pulser coil. Parts arrived while I was trippin.
Then there's the two vintage Yamaha 2-strokes awaiting engine parts from the machine shop, but they can wait for a calmer time after attending to my needy three.
 
OP
OP
mikthebik
Joined
May 3, 2018
Messages
37
Location
Ramona, CA USA
Great ride report - I like your writing style. You had a nice 1k ride to break in the new bike. As you have found out, the NT excels at long distances.

We're getting to the point where every NT owner has issues with the panniers. Suggest you take a look at http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/showthread.php?8841-Pannier-Latch-Solution and see if it fits your requirements.

As to the Cee Bailey screen - I too had two of them shatter, one of them catastrophically at 70 mph. While their customer service was excellent, I finally gave up and went to the V-Stream. So far, it has been bullet proof.

I agree the stock seat is not the best. My solution was to go to the Russell Day-Long saddle. I have a back rest on mine, and it's great for long rides.

Enjoy the bike - and thanx for posting your ride report.
Your external Franzen latches solution is exactly what I'm planning. I'm hoping I can get a keyed set with one key for both. If not I'll get the combination ones.

My butt loves the Sargent on my Strom. I expect the firmness quotient and rounded front of the current seat will transfer to the NT. Fingers crossed. I always have my clothes duffle Rok strapped behind me for a backrest. Works so well for me on the Strom, that I've abandoned the rest I purchased for it. My riding style and daily distance preference mesh well with the Sargent and adding another inch height with the Russell is very inseam unfriendly. Plus, aesthetically, it's a bit "unusual "...

I'll definitely look at the National screen. The Cee Bailey is in almost new condition, but 7-8 years old.. I'd rather not experience a failure at speed... As for the VStream, where have y'all obtained yours and what heights recommended. I think the plus 4 Cee Bailey seems pretty ideal for low to high protection... Revzilla has them for $170, just a single "tall touring" option.
 
Last edited:

junglejim

Site Supporter
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Messages
2,128
Location
Northern WI
Bike
Tiger 800, NT sold
The Cee Bailey is in almost new condition, but 7-8 years old.. I'd rather not experience a failure at speed...
I started with a Cee Bailey +4 and shortened it. But I shortened it from the bottom. The hole spacing between the top and bottom mounting holes is 3" so I cut 3" off the bottom and used the top mounting holes in the bottom position and drilled new top holes. The result was a +1" with the original "curl" on the top. I usually ran it in the down 1 or 2 notch so it wasn't too high. I'm aware of the failure rate of the Cee Baileys but I believe they failed because they were over stressed from being too tall. Mine never broke. Remember to chamfer the holes after drilling to ease the edges of the holes.

If I hadn't shortened my Cee Bailey I'd have bought the V-Stream.

Oh, and the stock windscreen in the lowest positions produced much less buffeting than the Cee Bailey did in the lowest positions, probably because of the presence or absence of the curl on top.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
1,295
Location
Arkansas
Bike
2020 Kawasaki Versys
Moly 60 is the stuff that has been used/recommended for years but I believe it is discontinued. I have not used other stuff so will not comment on the correct replacement for it.
It sounds like you do your own maintenance. It is easy enough to lube the splines while you have the wheel off. It seems trouble starts when tires are changed by someone else and you don't know if they lubed them or not. It is not worth cutting corners on.

Brad
 
OP
OP
mikthebik
Joined
May 3, 2018
Messages
37
Location
Ramona, CA USA
Just ordered 2 of the Franzen 1470-1 combination lock drawbolts. The key lock version I was hoping for isn't available. Will see how my fix of the broken latch mount goes. I'll eventually do the change, but for now will do the easy fix.

I completed the broken latch mount fix with JB weld and embedded a strip of fiberglass cloth around the lower section. The broken plastic around the screws was not all found, so there is a void on each screw tower. There was enough of the flat on the end of each tower to place the metal latch correctly. I got some longer 3/4" x 10 screws to replace the shorter stock ones and brushed the threads with paste wax to hopefully act as a release to allow the screws to be removed, since jb weld contacted the screws where the voids were. Not terribly important, but a good thought.

I ordered some Loctite 51048 Moly paste. Seems to be a recommended replacement on other forums for the discontinued Honda M60. Will be able to use it on the splines of my Honda Hawk rear hub also.. :cool:
 
Last edited:

mikesim

Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 7, 2011
Messages
3,380
Age
74
Location
Union, MO
Bike
NT700, Red, #989,
Just ordered 2 of the Franzen 1470-1 combination lock drawbolts. The key lock version I was hoping for isn't available. Will see how my fix of the broken latch mount goes. I'll eventually do the change, but for now will do the easy fix.

I completed the broken latch mount fix with JB weld and embedded a strip of fiberglass cloth around the lower section. The broken plastic around the screws was not all found, so there is a void on each screw tower. There was enough of the flat on the end of each tower to place the metal latch correctly. I got some longer 3/4" x 10 screws to replace the shorter stock ones and brushed the threads with paste wax to hopefully act as a release to allow the screws to be removed, since jb weld contacted the screws where the voids were. Not terribly important, but a good thought.

I ordered some Loctite 51048 Moly paste. Seems to be a recommended replacement on other forums for the discontinued Honda M60. Will be able to use it on the splines of my Honda Hawk rear hub also.. :cool:
Honda Moly 60 paste is no longer available. It must have killed a laboratory rat somewhere in California. It's replacement is Honda M77 paste which is readily available..

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-HN-08798-9010-MOLY-PASTE/dp/B0083BWUYW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528878895&sr=8-1&keywords=honda+moly+60+paste&dpID=31ToWYpoJ0L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch#customerReviews

I don't know how it compares to the Loctite product, but if it were me based on the cost of the final drive components, I would only use the genuine Honda product which prevents the fretting corrosion.

Mike
 

bicyclist

Guest
My Cee Bailey windshield was replaced with a slightly thicker one after it broke. Cee Bailey has wisely gotten out of the motorcycle windshield business.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
1,295
Location
Arkansas
Bike
2020 Kawasaki Versys
I was in the Honda shop today so I asked about the correct lube for the splines to replace M60. I didn't get a real straight answer. The mech type that answered most of my questions was mainly concerned that the grease was waterproof. I think I would personally be more careful than just that.
I'm sure the shop is buying their oils & lubes in bulk and don't really use all Honda branded products.
I was hoping for a more straight answer.

Brad
 
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
159
Location
Michigan
Bike
2010 Silver NT700VA
I was in the Honda shop today so I asked about the correct lube for the splines to replace M60. I didn't get a real straight answer. The mech type that answered most of my questions was mainly concerned that the grease was waterproof. I think I would personally be more careful than just that.
I'm sure the shop is buying their oils & lubes in bulk and don't really use all Honda branded products.
I was hoping for a more straight answer.

Brad
Unfortunately, you have to know more about your machine than the techs often do. I learned that lesson owning a couple of diesel VWs. The TDIclub.com forum was a great help, because often the VW techs were clueless about the diesels. You would be surprised how many dealers just grab for the standard bulk oils and what-not, and not what the manufacturer specifies.

I'm not super knowledgeable yet on the moly grease issue, but have been gleaning info from threads like this in preparation for a tire change. To my thinking, the 'moly' is for extreme lubricity and the ability to handle high temperatures, not necessarily for water prevention, although most greases will repel water. I would think the fancy moly lube is there to allow for a small amount of sliding of the splines, and that friction would cause wear/galling/sticking of the splines. Maybe the high-mileage forum member who had that failure happen due to a tech not using that grease at a tire change can tell us how it failed.
 

Phil Tarman

Site Supporter
Moderator
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
9,372
Age
81
Location
Greeley, CO
Bike
2010 Silver NT700VA (ABS)
Maybe the high-mileage forum member who had that failure happen due to a tech not using that grease at a tire change can tell us how it failed.
I assume that I might be the high-mileage member referred to above. All I can say is that I had a tire replaced in Gainesville, FL, on my way towards Maine during my Epic Ride. I had 71,000 miles on the bike then. At 84,000 miles I replaced the PR3 that had been mounted in Florida and found that the final drive was toast. The pinion bearing was also gone at that point. The splines looked as if they hadn't been lubed at all. There was enough wear that the final drive "wobbled" and had started wearing the heads of the cush drive bolts.

Fortunately for me, my extended warranty was still in effect and Honda paid for everything.

A year later, another Honda dealer replaced a rear tire and their tech got the spacers in wrong and that allowed the final drive to destroy itself again. We couldn't tell if the final drive had been lubed correctly that time, but I had told the service manager there to be sure that it was lubed with Moly-60 and he said that he would be sure to check on that. Again, this failure happened a year after the tire replacement and the dealership said that they couldn't be responsible for it. Maybe not, but they lost all my future business. This time the extended warranty had expired, but the dealer who sold me the bike (not the one who had done the work) gave me a good deal on parts prices and a minimal labor charge.
 

mikesim

Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 7, 2011
Messages
3,380
Age
74
Location
Union, MO
Bike
NT700, Red, #989,
Unfortunately, you have to know more about your machine than the techs often do. I learned that lesson owning a couple of diesel VWs. The TDIclub.com forum was a great help, because often the VW techs were clueless about the diesels. You would be surprised how many dealers just grab for the standard bulk oils and what-not, and not what the manufacturer specifies.

I'm not super knowledgeable yet on the moly grease issue, but have been gleaning info from threads like this in preparation for a tire change. To my thinking, the 'moly' is for extreme lubricity and the ability to handle high temperatures, not necessarily for water prevention, although most greases will repel water. I would think the fancy moly lube is there to allow for a small amount of sliding of the splines, and that friction would cause wear/galling/sticking of the splines. Maybe the high-mileage forum member who had that failure happen due to a tech not using that grease at a tire change can tell us how it failed.
The moly is there not only for the lubricity but for its property of withstanding extreme pressure. The splines suffer excessive wear due to fretting corrosion where the splines mesh with the gear. If you look for greases at the parts store and you see the EP on the label, you can be pretty darned sure that the grease contains moly. The EP chassis greases however do not contain enough of the moly additive to prevent the fretting corrosion that occurs in the final drive. To be on the safe side, use only the proper Honda product. It's only about $20 a tube which will last a lifetime. I keep a tube in my toolkit, just in case. Also, when you have your tire changed, bring your own tube of Honda paste and tell the tech to use this stuff liberally on the splines. Don't trust ANYONE to know what proper lube to use.
 
Top Bottom