RIDING the Working on the Railroad Rally

Phil Tarman

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PRE-RALLY PREPARATION

I had a good ride from Greeley up to Big Sky, Montana. I "enjoyed" the high winds that are one of the great attractions of riding on an interstate highway in Wyoming, and then was in rain, intermittently from Bondurant to Hoback Junction, and then steadily until I was nearly down to the bottom of Teton Pass on the Idaho side. I spent a good night in Driggs, WY, and enjoyed a really good dinner at Agave, a new Mexican food place in Driggs.

Riding north from there to West Yellowstone took me through beautiful wheat country, pine forests, and then into the mountains of northwest Yellowstone National Park before arriving at Big Sky Mountain Resort. It's an incredible setting -- a really nice hotel with all sorts of recreational amenities, surrounded by gorgeous homes nestled below magnificent mountains. I guess somebody has to live in places like that. I'm just grateful that there seem to be enough brave souls to fill the need.

We had a pig roast on Thursday night and I knew I was in trouble for the Rally when I couldn't find the pig roast for nearly an hour. When I did find it, the pig was a carcass (but I managed to cut off enough meat that I didn't starve). There was also one roll left and I got about three bites of fruit. But I got to meet people I've admired for their riding and strategizing in rallies I've read about over the years. Nobody played any ego games and the Big Dogs were funny and perfectly willing to give useful advice to us noobies.

Friday was as day to get through registration. Everyone had to have a SPOT tracker and get it registered on the Rally tracking link. People who didn't already have a SPOT could borrow one for the Rally. After that, there was a registration form that we filled in with Name, Address, Emergency Contact Info, etc.

Then we went to the bike where our license, registration, and insurance cards were checked. As far as I know, everyone got through this, but some people had to struggle to find and read their VIN # on their bike. They had to match the registration and insurance documents.

The Odometer check began when a Rally Staff person had us line up our front axle with a mark on the ground, zero our trip meter and wrote down the odometer reading. Then, we rode down to the highway, turned right and rode to and through a parking lot at a local steakhouse and then back up the mountain. There, the staff person checked the trip meter mileage (mine was 21.4) and that was used to calculate an odometer correction factor. (Since at the finish, my odometer read 1,800 miles more than it had on Saturday morning at 3:30AM when our odometers were checked again, if I had needed more than 1,800 miles to finish that correction factor could have been critical.)

After the odometer check, we went to the registration room to receive our Rally Flags each with our Rider ID # (mine was "50"), and the bonus locations, and to hear the Routemaster, Jeff Earls, explain how the rally worked. Jeff is a perennial Iron Butt Rally contender who has finished as high as 2nd place in the Big Dance. He's also an engineer and that was evident in the ride options.

We were "Working on the Railroad," and railroads move freight. In the Big Sky country, those freights are usually ore, timber, crops. We each had "trains" with four cars. We'd pick up cargo and each cargo would fill one car. The cargos each had an assigned value that reflected the difficulty of picking it up. Difficulty generally rose the farther the cargo pickup was from Big Sky. Then each cargo had a adjustment factor that differed according to the location of the station it was delivered to. Coal, for example, wouldn't have been worth much delivered to a station in Gillette, WY (if there had been a station there). For Beginners like me, the adjustment factors weren't in play. We got full value for each cargo no matter where we took it. But for the Experienced riders, those factors could make a huge difference -- they ranged from a low of .4 to a high of 1.6.

Unfortunately, when I had started working with Base Camp the night before, I learned that my computer and my GPS weren't talking to each other. To make things even worse, I couldn't talk to my GPS -- it wouldn't let me enter a new route.

I used Streets and Trips to plan a ride to stations mostly east of Big Sky. One of the bonuses was a special freight which would be carried between Minot AFB (Minot, ND) and Malmstrom AFB (Great Falls, MT). The train had to be empty before picking up the freight in Minot and we couldn't pick up any other freight until we got to Malmstrom. That cargo was worth over 6,000 points, and since us noobs needed 8,000 points to be finishers, it was central to my strategy.

I planned a route and then started trying to enter it into my GPS. The bonus cards each had GPS coordinates and sample pictures of photos that would be sufficient to document our cargo pickup (or delivery). After entering all the locations I planned on visiting six times and then not being able to save them, I was at wit's end (which isn't very far from where I live all the time). Finally, I had an idea that worked. I opened an existing trip, deleted all it's destinations, and entered my coordinates, renamed the route. That worked! I was in bed by midnight. I finally went to sleep around 1:30. I had my alarm set for 2:45 because we had to be down to get our bikes into starting position by 3:00. So, well rested with an hour and 15 minutes sleep, I was up and ready to go!
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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THE RIDE:

At 3AM, we were down, getting our bikes into "TWO lines, nose-to-tail." And it started raining. I had my heated jacket on and my vents closed on my jacket. I changed gloves to my old Goretex gloves that are a little bulky but have kept my hands warm and dry for a lot of miles.

At 3:30, the staff started down the line, checking our starting odometer readings. At 3:40, the resort staff showed up coffee and box lunches. I filled my thermos and my cup and stuck one of the box lunches in the trunk. The rain got harder.

At precisely 4:00AM, Dale Wilson, known as Warchild and the legendary starter of several of the Iron Butt Rallies, pointed his finger at the first rider in the left-side line, and the Rally was on. Warchild alternated lines and everyone got away smoothly -- until it was my turn. Many IBR riders have talked about their fear of stalling or dropping their bike as they started. Well, the good news was that I didn't drop it. After I restarted, the lines started moving again.

As we pulled away from the hotel, we formed into a single line, out of the resort center, and down the hill to the highway. I was surprised that nobody was riding like their hair was on fire. I quickly learned that I had a problem. If I closed the faceshield on my Schuberth, it fogged up. if I didn't close it, rain was getting all over the inside of the shield. Either way, I was having a hard time seeing and that was made worse by the extravagant driving light setups that some of the bikes had. With them reflecting into my helmet and eyes from my mirrors, it was challenging riding down the road to the north.

My first stop had been planned for a lumber mill at Galatin Gateway, 30 miles from the Resort. But there were about 40 riders stopping and I decided that it wasn't worth getting caught up in that goat-rope for only 175 points.

So, I rode to Livingston and stopped to pick up my first freight, timber from the R-Y Timber Company. East of Livingston, I watched a beautiful sunrise as I rode along the Yellowstone River. I stopped for breakfast and gas at Columbus, MT, and was surprised at how good I felt.

I unloaded my freight at the old Northern Pacific Depot in Billings and got 350 points! I was on the board! East on I-90 brought me to Hardin, on the northern edge of the Crow Reservation, where I headed east on MT-354 (Sarpy Road) for 28 miles until I turned onto the 2.8 miles of washboard gravel (that the Absoloka Mine Company was busy wetting down) to get to the sign that was the place to pick up my next cargo, a load of coal worth 1489 points. I was surprised that I was there before about seven bikes. One got there just as I was taking my picture, and then I met another on my way out to pavement and several more as I was riding back to 90.

In Sheridan, I delivered the coal to the Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy depot by taking a picture of an old steam engine, #5631.

Heading toward Gillette, WY, on I-90, it was hot and the Powder River country is not the most esthetically pleasing landscape in the country. My lack of sleep started to catch up with me and I began to worry about staying awake. When I got Gillette, I woke up and rode out to the Buckskin Mine for my next cargo. 1194 points. I stopped at a Loaf and Jug, walked around, ate, re-hydrated myself, got more coffee inside me from my thermos and was revived for the next leg.

East of Gillette, I exited 90 at Moorcroft and rode to the Devil's Tower Junction, right past it, and on into Hulett, where the Bearlodge Forest Product Company had another cargo (worth 1447 points). From there, it was east to Belle Fourche (pronounced "Fooch"), SD. North on US-85 to SD-

More to come tomorrow ... with pictures.
 

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Great read Phil, I'm looking forward to tomorrow's installment.
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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THE RIDE, Part II

East of Gillette, I exited 90 at Moorcroft and rode to the Devil's Tower Junction, right past it, and on into Hulett, where the Bearlodge Forest Product Company had another cargo (worth 1447 points). From there, it was east to Belle Fourche (pronounced "Fooch"), SD. North on US-85 to SD-

More to come tomorrow ... with pictures.
As I left Belle Fourche on US-85, it started to rain. For some reason, my GPS routed me off of US-85 onto SD-168 and over to SD-79. I'm guessing that it was saving some distance as opposed to just going north on 85 to I-94. Given the fact that the rain didn't seem to be falling to my west for a good part of the way to Dickinson, I'm thinking giving up a little bit of time would have been worth it.

SD-79 brought back some memories. In '13, Jim Moore (jmoore on the Forum) and Rick Ryan (used to be FalconAF on the Forum) and I decided to ride to North Dakota so we could check off another state on our maps. We had ridden up 85, then east on US-12 until we turned south on ND-22, which turns into SD-79 when it crosses the border. There had been a lot of construction and we'd had to wait for pilot cars a couple of times and then rode on gravel next to construction for quite a few miles. The ride this time was about 50F cooler than it had been in June of '13. There was some bridge construction in ND that had one lane traffic over the bridges. There were stop signs at each end of the two-lane and one bridge had additional instructions: "Take Turns." Seemed like a pretty good way to manage traffic on a lightly-traveled road. As it happened, there was never another vehicle in sight when I came to one of those zones.

After I crossed US-12, the rain slacked off, but didn't stop. I enjoyed the huge wheat fields on both sides of the roads. I also enjoyed the fact that someone had cut the grass in the ditches and baled it into the big round bales you see so often now. Birds -- soggy birds -- were sitting on the haybales. Hawks, pheasants, ravens. All like me -- just wishing the rain would stop.

Just as I got to Dickinson, it did stop, and the cashier at the station where I bought gas said that they hadn't had any rain all day. I wished that I could have said the same thing!

In downtown Dickinson, I found the old Northern Pacific Station. It was 800 miles into the ride and 7:17 MDT. So, I was 15 hours into a 36-hour ride and 1,000 miles away from my destination. I "unloaded" my freight and continued east on I-94. My train was deadheading on the way to Minot. it rained a little, but never enough to be annoying.

My preconception of North Dakota was that it would be flat and boring, but that was definitely not the case. It was beautiful country, hills and fields with frequent areas of trees. When I exited I-94 95 miles to the east darkness was falling. I learned to appreciate fog-lines. They may have been there, but they weren't very visible. They make a huge difference in seeing the road ahead. Still, there was very little traffic as it got dark, and I came to Lake Sakakawea, where I rode across the mile-long Garrison Dam before getting to US-83 which would take me to Minot.

By the time I got there, it was about 10:30 by my clock and I was ready for a rest break. One of our rally cards was for "Idling on the Siding." The rest break had to start between 10:00PM and 2:00AM. You got 5 points/minute and had to have receipts for the beginning and the ending of the break. I checked into a Super 8 that didn't have computer-printed receipts, but the lady gave me a copy of the manual credit-card machine receipt and wrote on the back that I'd checked in at 11:30. I didn't notice until I woke up that you couldn't read the name of the motel or its address. This was a bad deal! I had used my SPOT to send an "OK" message when I stopped, and I took a picture of the receipt and my keys lying next to the Super 8 matchbook and ashtray (in my non-smoking room!) and hoped that I'd convince the scoring team that I'd been there! I think I laid down on the bed at 12:02CDT. I'd guess that I was asleep by 12:03:24.

I had asked for a 2:30 wake-up call (1:30MDT). I might have slept through the first call, but I had the one that came at 2:37CDT. I heard it and knew I had to get up. When I did, I could hardly walk. I staggered around the room getting geared back up to ride and pulled out of the motel parking lot 3:00CDT. My end of break receipt was picked up at gas station .9 mile north of the Super 8.

From there it was 11 miles north to the gate of Minot AFB, where I picked up the "Special Cargo" for delivery to Malmstrom AFB in Great Falls, MT. Heading west of Minot on US-2, the Highline, there was not much traffic and not much else for the first 50 miles or so. Before too long I could see the sky getting light in the north-east. When you're at the higher latitudes (I was above 48-degrees North), the sun seems to rise as much from the north as from the east.

I rode through a couple of very-short areas of fog -- fog which had a strange smell. I started to worry that it might be something toxic, but after a few miles I decided I wasn't showing any ill effects, so I relaxed. About halfway across to Williston, I got into the area of the Bakken fracking boom. There were gas flares as far as I could see and, even with the impending bust due to plummeting oil prices, there were still a few rigs drilling/fracking/whatever. I got gas in Williston and within 20 miles was almost completely out of the oilfield activity. NE Montana is country bordering on badlands. Lots of erosion (which explains why so many dinosaur fossils are found there).

There was a time when Montana's speed limit was "Reasonable and Prudent" in the daytime, which meant that if it was clear and dry that there really wasn't a speed limit. (I know from personal experience that they fairly strictly enforced the 55mph night limit. The officer who wrote me a ticket for doing 63 in the 55 explained it to me by telling me that they really didn't want people hitting their wild animals.) I was running about 8mph over the 65mph limit and my GPS was telling me that I'd be back to Big Sky by 2:30PM, an hour and a half to spare. But I knew I needed gas at least twice and I had to document the stop at Malmstrom to unload the special cargo, so that hour of slack wasn't realistic.

I figured out that if I could make it to Big Sandy before buying gas, I'd be able to make it to Big Sky with only one more gas/biological stop. At Big Sandy, I was getting pretty low when I saw the un-manned pumps. I put in 4.629 gallons, and started to get back on the road. Unfortunately, when I'd stopped on the small concrete pad at the pumps, I had neglected shifting down into 1st gear. So I was starting in 3rd. If you've ever done that, you know it's easy to stall the bike that way. I had just gotten off the concrete onto the gravel when it died. Down she went.

I wasn't hurt, but I couldn't pick it up either. I was far enough off the road that people weren't seeing me. I walked out to the highway waving my arms and hollered at a guy who had his windows rolled down. He pulled off to help me, but he was as little and scrawny as I am big and fat. We couldn't get it, so he headed across the tracks to go get his friend. Before he got back, I managed to flag down another guy. He happened to be a rider and was also young and strong. Between us we got the bike up. My first Good Samaritan and his friend got back in time to wish me well and I was off, having only lost about 15 minutes.

Finding Malmstrom was easy and I left there at 11:32. The GPS was predicting a 3PM arrival at Big Sky. I gassed up at Helena, but had picked a station without a men's room. So, I rode a block to a CVS Pharmacy, took care of my biological imperative, and was back on the road.

The stretch between Helena and I-90 near Three Forks was mostly two-lane and heavily traveled by RVs and some "cruiser" mentality motorcyclists, running 5-8mph under the limit in the no-passing zones and then would speed up in the passing zones. So, when I got to 90, I still had time. The GPS was saying I'd get to Big Sky at 3:34PM, but I knew that the last 50 miles was two-lanes with limited passing opportunity, so I rode I-90 at an "elevated" speed, running at about 90mph in an 80mph area. When I got off onto US-191, I was behind two other Big Sky riders. We were behind an 18-wheeler who impressed me with his ability to run 60mph+ on a twisty canyon road.

The finish line was reached at 3:27PM. That doesn't stop the clock. But since there was no bonus for finishing before the 4PM deadline, I took the time to talk to a couple of staff people before finding Ira Agins to stop the clock at 3:40PM.

I know I said I'd post pictures. I will, but not tonight.

Tomorrow's addition will tell about the scoring process and my finishing score (compared to the scores other riders earned) and some of those pictures.
 
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Sounds like a great ride and adventure. But, if you don't have photos it never happened. :rofl1:
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Alright already!!

Here are some -- more will be added.

From left to right: Sunrise east of Livingston, MT; Picking up "freight" at R-Y Timber, Livingston; Minutes before the start at Big Sky; more sunrise a little farther east; delivering "freight" at Billings, MT.
 

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Sounds like a great ride and adventure. But, if you don't have photos it never happened. :rofl1:
But he has his finishers certificate or plaque so if he chooses to post it he really don't need any other pictures!!;)

Eldon
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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And more. These begin in eastern Montana and end in northwestern Wyoming.

Left to right: The Absoloka Mine (1489 points), 28 miles of pavement and 2.5 miles of washboard gravel (wet washboard gravel) from I-90 at Hardin, MT; just north of Lodge Grass, MT; I-90 north of Sheridan, WY; I-90 north of Buffalo, WY; the Buckskin Mine (1194 points), 11 miles north of Gillette, WY.
 

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Chris,
I must respectfully disagree with you! the plaque or certificate for completion of a IBA event is a simle reminder that you did finish the event or ride in spite of all odds. I have such things setting around on shelves and wals. They are not worth anything in the monetary colums, but they all bring reminders of rides in events that just pictures don't do, at least for me.

Eldon
 

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Thanks for the pics Phil, and the story that goes with them!
 
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Phil Tarman

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Left to right: Devil's Tower; Engine # 5631 in Sheridan, WY (which came before Devil's Tower); a couple of pictures on the way to Dickinson, ND; the Great Northern station at Dickinson, ND.
 

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I think I stay on this forum in part to read/watch Phil's big adventures. For those of us less adventurous it makes for great fantasy material. Great job again. BTW, how many miles was your trip and what is your ODO reading?

Terry
 
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Phil Tarman

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Left to Right:

Minot Air Force Base, where I picked up the "Special Cargo" that was worth 6,591 points; There were strange things in them thar' hills just west of Glascow, MT; Malmstrom AFB, in Great Falls, MT, where the "Special Cargo" was delivered; heading towards Helena, MT, on I-15, going toward what Lewis and Clark called "The Gates of the Mountains."
 

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Phil Tarman

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Re: RIDING the Working on the Railroad Rally:

SCORING:

As I watched time run down I was streaking east on I-90 heading for the junction with US-191. When I pulled into the parking lot at Big Sky Resort, it was fun to have spectators cheering my arrival. Rally staff was there to verify our odometer reading -- mine was 107,920. That meant that I had ridden 1800 miles before applying the odometer correction factor. Doing that put my total mileage for the rally at 1807.4 miles.

After I parked, I had to find Ira Agins to stop the clock. On my way to find Ira, I was stopped by Bob Torter, the Rallymaster, who wanted me to know that we had lost a rider. Bruce Jansen, a rider on a K1200GT had been killed when he rode into the back of a truck that was going up a long hill very slowly. No one knows if he was looking at his GPS or what, but he was moving at a high rate of speed and was killed instantly. His family had flown out to be with him at the Finish Banquet. There were three other accidents, but those riders weren't seriously injured.

I stopped the clock at 3:40 and had one hour to begin the scoring process. The procedure was to arrange our cargo and station cards in order based on odometer readings. That didn't take long. Then we had to be ready to show the pictures we'd taken at each location during the rally and we had to have our rally flag and the rally emergency phone # card with us at scoring.

When we were ready we told staff outside the door and then when a scorer was available, we were escorted to the scoring table. I had Bob Higdon as my scorer. Most of you know that Bob is the legal counsel for the Iron Butt Association, as well as an unofficial historian. Bob has never ridden in an Iron Butt Rally, but he's always been there. One of his most noteworthy series of rides was his visit to every court house in the United States in one year. Bob is also semi-famous here because he rides an NT700V. He's on his third one now. He put 36,000 miles on his first 2010 ABS version, traded it in on a 2nd 2010 ABS version and is now riding a 2011 (with HMW roundels).

My scoring started off very well. I had the Rally Flag. That saved me 6,000 points, as opposed to the deduction losing it would have cost. Then I got 350 points for delivering the timber from Livingston to Billings. That was the last good news for the day.

After riding 28 miles from I-90 to the washboard, wet, gravel road to the Absoloka Mine, I didn't notice that my picture showed my flag, but not my number. The wind had whipped it around. That cost me 1489 points at the station in Sheridan.

I successfully picked up the cargo at the Buckskin mine (1194 points) north of Gillette as well as at Bearlodge Forest Products in Hulett, WY (1447 points). But, when I got to Dickinson, ND, parking was allowed right in front of the station. So I parked a 100 yards east of the station and walked back to take my picture. Only one trivial detail escaped my razor-sharp mind: ALL pictures had to have the Rally Flag and number visible. Oops! That cost me 2641 points.

I got points for the rest bonus (although I'm not sure exactly how many). Those points were close, too. The Indian lady who was running the Super 8 didn't give me a receipt that showed the address and name of the motel or the time I checked in. But I had documented it in other ways.

So, after all points were lost and a few were gained, I ended up being counted as a finisher with 8,110 points. If I had gotten all the points I thought I had, I would have had 12,240 points. That would have moved me from the last place in the Beginners group all the way up to 7th or 8th. Woo-hoo! The winner in the Beginners group had over 40,000.

The Experienced Riders ranged from the last place finisher who had a bit over 14,000 points up to a group who had the same point score at around 70,000 points. Efficiency determined the winner of that group -- the rider who rode the fewest miles to get those points was more efficient and earned the higher position.

The overall winner was Jim Owen, a United Airlines captain who won the 2009 Iron Butt Rally rode 200 miles more than I did. But he scored a few more points. His winning total was over 90,000 points!.

Do I have a lot to learn? Well, I guess!
 
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Phil Tarman

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RE: WORKING ON THE RAILROAD RALLY:

THE RIDE HOME

I had a really good night's sleep after the Finish Banquet and got up at about 8 and started packing to come home. By the time I talked with a few riders it was 10:30 before I left Big Sky. I rode to Bozeman and ate a leisurely breakfast at I-Hop and was on the road home at about 1PM. I basically rode the speed limit + 2-4mph. It was a hot day -- 98F when I stopped at Hardin for gas. I stopped again at Kaycee, WY, and it was down to 92. Wyoming was absolutely beautiful. They've had a really wet year and the pronghorn that were everywhere I looked along I-25 between Kaycee and Casper were FAT! That's very unusual. I couldn't help but wonder if their top speed (usually between 45-60mph) was compromised any by their weight.

As I neared Casper, I could see a couple of big cumulonimbus clouds way off to the southeast. I knew that they were going to affect my ride home and they did. When I turned south east of Douglas, I started bucking fairly strong headwinds. The one limitation of my Rostra cruise control is that it disconnects if it is forced to open the throttle all the way. With the long hills in Wyoming and the headwinds, I ended up using the Throttlemeister most of the way to Colorado.

I stopped for gas at Wheatland and that was enough to get me to my garage at 11:50PM. The ride to Big Sky had been 663 miles; Odometer check, 21 miles; the Rally, 1,800 miles, the ride home, 719. Total mileage for the trip was 3,204.

I've got a technical question for the experts among us: What do you suppose was going on up in ND? I noticed that when I would try to accelerate, if I opened the throttle all the way, the bike would stutter and wouldn't accelerate past about 80mph. Plus my indicated gas mileage was very low during that stretch. It was actually indicating lower than I was getting by calculating my gas mileage. I was seeing 32-34mpg indicated, but was getting 42-45. After I got gas in Big Sandy, the bike ran fine. I've wondered if there was some water in the tank.
 
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Phil Tarman

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After I got off US-2 and bought gas at Big Sandy, MT, I didn't have any more trouble and the bike ran normally.
 
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Phil,

Thank you for a very well written rally ride report! Reading it I was feeling rhe stresses and stains of most of the miles even though I had already set through them following the spot tracks as they appeared, LOL I hollered at you on several occasions and of course you didn't hear me, but after reading the whole report it became clear to me what you were doing that I didn't know about until reading all of the reports.

Eldon
 
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Phil Tarman

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I need to make a correction. Bob Higdon did ride (and finish) an Iron Butt Rally. He was 65th in the 2001 IBR. That was the same rally that our own Bob Ray finished in 52nd place on a Honda Reflex scooter. :)
 
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