Rotella T6 5-40 Full Syn (initial review)

mikesim

mikesim

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Gotta say, that I am impressed! Based up reviews here in the forum and also on the Bob is the Oil Guy website, I changed the oil in Traveller over the weekend at 16K miles using Rotella. I had previously used Mobil 1 4T 10-40 and was pleased with the performance however I noticed that starting at about 6K miles the transmission became decidedly "clunkier". The oil analysis confirmed my suspicion that after about 6K, the M1 was shearing out of grade. After about 150 miles of riding, I can truthfully say that Traveller has never shifted smoother. So far I'm very impressed! I am anxious to see how the Rotella performs as I accumulate miles. If it becomes "clunky" again after about 6K or sooner, I'm going to switch to a 6K OCI and leave it at that. The bonus with the Rotella is that it is a couple buck cheaper for an oil change than Mobil 1. Not trying to resurrect an oil war, just reporting my impressions.

Mike
 
Thanks for the review, Mike! I am currently using the same Mobil1 but intend to switch to Rotella after my 8K service. Your findings are encouraging
Clay
 
I'm a Rotella synthetic fan. I change at 8,000 miles and have no problem with clunky shifting. On recent cross country trip, I went past 8,000 with no shifting clunkiness. I can also buy it cheaply at Wall Mart. I'm a believer.
 
I've been using T6 for years in everything from lawn mowers to a diesel truck and a diesel loader. I put 50k miles on my previous bike, a 750 vulcan, and never had any mechanical problems where the oil was. Plenty of other problems, though, which is why I upgraded to the NT. On that, I went directly from the break-in oil to T6 at 600 miles. No problems since, but I've only got about 5500 miles on it so far. Shifting is smooth as can be, a delight actually.

I found the T6 oil at Tractor Supply on sale for $19/gallon recently, and stocked up. It's by far the best oil I've ever used.

Bill
 
As someone that rides all winter I also appreciate the low pour point of this oil. Most engine wear occurs at start up so its important in low temperatures that an oil circulates quickly. There are demo's on youtube comparing the flow of Rotella T6 in low temperatures compared to standard oils and it is like night and day. While the Rotella is flowing standard oils look like slow motion sluge.
 
Last edited:
8-BALL said:
Warren,

Can you explain the difference between viscosity and pour point? I think low pour point is the most important part of fully synthetic. Maybe there is no difference - Amsol uses the term pour point.

Simply put, pour point is an absolute value at a specific temperature while viscosity refers to the "thickness" or ability to flow a varying temperatures.

Mike
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I use amsoil and had some clunk and every once in a while a slight grind going from 1st gear to second gear. Should I change to T6 ?? The oil in bike was changed about 1500 miles ago. Thanks Jack
 
I wouldn't worry about. Amsoil is good oil. Wait your usual mileage interval and change to Rotella.
 
Herb said:
I wouldn't worry about. Amsoil is good oil. Wait your usual mileage interval and change to Rotella.
Click to expand...

Agreed! The Amsoil won't harm anything and it would be a shame to waste good oil

Mike
 
I have probably changed my oil too often on the NT. I changed it at 600, 4000, and 6400. Switched to Rotella T6 at 4000. Mine has a distinct clunk going from Neutral to 1rst, but all other gear changes have been smooth and easy. I plan on leaving this batch in till 10K. I should be there before winter.
 
Every bike I've owned (all four!) has clunked shifting from neutral to 1st, especially when the bike is cold.
 
They clunk going into 1st for the same reason that an automatic trans in a car moves the car without any mechanical connection. The driven clutch plates in a bike are so close to the output clutch plates that the gears in the tranny are moving even when the clutch is pulled in due to the oil transferring power between the plates. When the dogs engage 1st, the gears are moving. When you shift into the other gears, the syncros take most of the clunk out.
 
A gallon of Rotella T6 Synthetic is $21 at WalMart today, and there is a $5 rebate (expires May 31) that can be completed online. $16/Gallon, $4/Qt for synthetic oil is tough to beat. My survival shelf is full of oil and motorcycle parts.......a man has to have priorities.
 
So why do you use a truck oil in your motorcycle? With a wet clutch and common transmission?

Shell makes a line of motorcycle oils.

I stick with oils made for the bike. But, I also have an air cooled engine and separate tranny with different requirements. Have seen people lose a valve train due to using some of the modern car oils.

As someone stated earlier, a water cooled engine has the worst issues on a cold start. After that it is mainly cleanliness.

Making a "clunk" go away may not be a good thing. It may mean you have more friction in there instead of less. "Cushioning" the gears means the bearings aren't able to work correctly.

Yeah, I know a lot of people love Rotella, mainly because it is cheap. I'll stick with stuff made for my type of bike.
 
[...There are demo's on youtube comparing the flow of Rotella T6 in low temperatures compared to standard oils and it is like night and day. While the Rotella is flowing standard oils look like slow motion sluge...]
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I have used Rotella in the past so fully appreciate its merits and great value but at least to me the flow of oil when cold is somewhat moot. For the first few seconds after the engine is started, the parts are being lubricated by residual oil. Whether an oil flows faster at this point than another oil is something that can be debated and the value of that trait to reduce long-term engine wear is tough to substantiate.

It would be different if your garage door was only 100 feet from the interstate on-ramp and each morning you zoomed up to 75 mph only 10 seconds after starting the engine. :smile:
 
Just changed mine today and put some T6 in it. All I've used for several bikes now.
 
Just a quick question. Is there any reason not to use the Pro Honda 10w-40?
Thanks, Clint
 
And I'm just an engineer too ;)

Just wondered why oil for a diesel in a motorcycle with a wet clutch?
 
[There probably isn't much difference between the level of detergents in "diesel-formulated oil" and Mobil 1 or any of the "high mileage vehicle oils" or extended oil change interval mixtures (Mobil 10000)]
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I believe the main difference between oil formulated for diesel trucks vs oil for autos/motorcycles is the amount of EP (extended pressure) additives that help the CE-oil better survive the shearing that occurs in the transmission. EP additives such as zinc were long ago removed from normal automotive oil.
 
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