Shaft drive maintenance

Coyote Chris

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Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Messages
4,428
Location
Spokane
Bike
10 Red NT 14 FJR, 17 XT
IMHO...my vary humble opinion...motorcycle shaft drive maintenance is easy, and quick as far as the fluid goes.
Its actually easier than checking and adjusting the tire pressure on many bikes.
BUT I dont buy into how critical many talking heads think it is.
A funnel and a beaker? Are you kidding me?
Buy any 80-90-140 -you name it quality hypoid oil.
Drain the rear end by removing the cap and the drain bolt. Inspect bolt for a magnet and clean it with a rag. Put in the drain bolt. Dont worry about getting every last drop out.
Use the handy fill spout on every quart of modern hypoid gear oil I see.
Fill up to the level of the inspection hole.
Put on cap.
Once the tools are layed out, if this takes you over 5 minutes, you need some counciling.
Do this yearly or every 10,000 miles. Which ever comes first.
If you only do it every 4 years and 20,000 miles, dont be surprised if it works just as well.
If you dont see any leaks, check the level once a year.
If you dont want to use new crush washers, or even if you do, take a dab of which paint and put it where the drain plug meets the case.
DONT STRIP THE DRAIN BOLT/CASE.

The more critical maintenance is bike specific. On the FJR, there is a universal joint near the engine that needs it slip splines lubed every three-four years depending on climate.
 

DirtFlier

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Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
3,341
Location
Troy, OH
Bike
2010 Silver NT700V/ABS
The BMW opposed twin models have for years had an annual requirement to remove the tranny, rear wheel & swingarm to grease the splines of the transmission input shaft that fits into the dry clutch disc. A few other parts in the driveline also needed fresh grease.

Honda motorcycles with shaft drive only require the driven spline in the rear wheel to be greased with Moly 40 and that's typically done during tire replacement so that's a huge difference compared to the flat twin Beemers!
 
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