Sta-bil - Is it safe for the NT?

Joined
Jun 28, 2012
Messages
56
Location
Dewey, AZ
Bike
2011 Pearl Black NT700VAB
It's getting colder and it's time to prepare the NT700V for storage in my garage. Is Sta-bil safe? Or Seafoam?
 
Either work fine. I don't think fuel injected engines are affected as severely by long term storage as are engines with carburetors. Carburetors have a tiny reservoir of gas (the float bowl) that goes bad quickly while the fuel in the tank remains OK. Fuel injections systems have no such reservoir. My garage is attached and I've never "stored" my bike over the winter as I start the engine on a monthly basis and allow it to run until temp comes up to normal. Some say this creates additional condensation in the exhaust system and crankcase but my last bike had over 100k when I sold it and everything was still OK.
 
Either will work fine. I recommend Seafoam for those who want to "clean-up" a varnished fuel system and Sta-Bil for long term storage. The new Marine Sta-Bil (blue) is especially formulated to counteract the effects of ethanol in some fuels. Even though I try to ride all winter, I start adding Sta-Bil with each fill up just in case the bike gets parked for a time due to an extreme cold snap or protracted wet, snowy weather. Hope this helps...

Mike
 
Mike and DirtFlier, thanks. This is my NT's first year. I will try without either and probably use seafoam at end of storage next year. It is stored in my attached garage. I will start the engine every couple of weeks. My previous bike was a 750 Nighthawk. I put sta-bil in the tank to prepare it for storage in the garage, use a battery tender, and cover it with tarp. I never touch it until the first nice weather at end of the season. I always have a hard time starting it at end of storage. I use seafoam and a spray of starting can into the airbox to start it. Oh well, that was then.
 
If I let my CB-1 (400cc 4 cylinder with 4 inline carbs...think really small orifices) sit for more than a month (even WITH Stabil in the fuel system) the carbs would clog up. On my other larger bikes this was never an issue. Only way I found to combat the issue on the CB-1 was to turn off the fuel and run the carbs dry. Doing that, it can sit for months without a problem. I don't worry about letting my FI bikes sit for months with untreated fuel (even the evil 10% ethanol stuff).

I do add stabilizer to my 5 gal gas can for my yard equipment since the gas often lasts for a bit more than a year before I need to refill it.

Still, I don't think you'll have a problem with adding the stabilizers. The red stabilizer did leave a red "residue" in the carb bowls on the CB-1 when I used it but it easily cleaned up with some carb cleaner.
 
[...only way I found to combat the issue on the CB-1 was to turn off the fuel and run the carbs dry...]

If you can reach the carb drain screws, you could speed the process by first draining the carbs, then trying to start the engine with dry carbs. The engine will fire-up for about 1-second as it sucks all the fuel out of the passages, including the horizontal passages that don't drain normally. And I agree about the CB-1 having tiny slow jet orifices!
 
There are a lot of products out there. My personal preference is Star-Tron. Seems to be sold in quite a few MC Shops. Also most of the racers around here use it.
 
Mike and DirtFlier, thanks. This is my NT's first year. I will try without either and probably use seafoam at end of storage next year. It is stored in my attached garage. I will start the engine every couple of weeks. My previous bike was a 750 Nighthawk. I put sta-bil in the tank to prepare it for storage in the garage, use a battery tender, and cover it with tarp. I never touch it until the first nice weather at end of the season. I always have a hard time starting it at end of storage. I use seafoam and a spray of starting can into the airbox to start it. Oh well, that was then.

If'n I wuz you and I planned to lay up the bike more than a month with fuel in the tank, I think it would be a wise investment to treat the fuel with Marine Sta-Bil.... the cost is negligible and as the old saying goes, "an ounce of prevention....."

Mike
 
Treat the gas. All of the products mentioned have been used and work fine for me. I would recommend that you keep the tank as full as possible when stored to help keep a rusting tank at bay.

Some may consider it wasteful, but my 5 gallon gas container gets stabil every time I fill it, regardless of the time of year. That way I never have to keep track of what piece of yard equipment has what gas. In 20 years, I've never had any engine give me a starting problem.
 
Treat the gas. All of the products mentioned have been used and work fine for me. I would recommend that you keep the tank as full as possible when stored to help keep a rusting tank at bay.

Some may consider it wasteful, but my 5 gallon gas container gets stabil every time I fill it, regardless of the time of year. That way I never have to keep track of what piece of yard equipment has what gas. In 20 years, I've never had any engine give me a starting problem.

Yup! I do the same, that way I never have to remember to winterize the fuel.... my remembery is not so good anymore.

Mike
 
[...If you can reach the carb drain screws, you could speed the process by first draining the carbs, then trying to start the engine with dry carbs. The engine will fire-up for about 1-second as it sucks all the fuel out of the passages, including the horizontal passages that don't drain normally. And I agree about the CB-1 having tiny slow jet orifices!]

The 2 inner bowl drain screws are not easily accessible. It's just easier to flip the fuel valve when just down the road from home. By the time I get to the house, the bike is sputtering out of fuel. Easy. :cool:
 
I think it is a bit early for someone from Ill to even start thinking about putting their NT to bed. I have heated grips and with the windshield and faring protection from the NT.....keep going!
 
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