Switched vs. unswitched circuits

[Kneebyter]

I am looking at installing a fuse box on my NT. I think I am going to go with an Eastern Beaver PC-8, but I have some questions about the number and type of circuits I may want. I see that the FZ-1 Fuzeblock is popular, and that you can choose whether to make each circuit switched, or unswitched. My question is, other than for hooking up a charger, what would one use the unswitched circuits for? I have seen people talk about having a GPS hooked up to one, but the only GPS unit I've ever had (a Garmin) ran off its battery, which the vehicle just recharged when plugged in, so I would be able to use it with the power off anyway.

The PC-8 has two unswitched circuits and 6 switched. I have a small dongle with ring connectors on the battery right now (it is freakin' frigid here) that the battery maintainer hooks up to, so I could even leave that in place. That would mean I don't have a plan for either of the unswitched circuits. I'm sure I could find a less expensive fusebox if it didn't have both types of circuits. Should I look for one of these instead?

If this has already been covered, please direct me to the thread. Thanks.

-Tim

 

[Chucksklrst]

I have the same fuse box on my Wee. Use the UNswitched for running a GPS or some device you might want to operate when the ignition key is off. Do not use the UNswitched for extra lights, or heated gear. Too easy to forget and run your battery down. BTDT.

Stay with the PC-8 as it then leaves room for future expansion.

 

[Phil Tarman]

If you have the Denalis mouinted on the fender like I do, you don't have to worry about blasting people you pull up behind of at lights.

I've got my GPS on an unswitched circuit because it doesn't have a battery -- I've got the Zumo 350LM and when I'm traveling I usually leave it on except at night. Couldn't do that if it was on a switched circuit.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

I too would stick with the PC-8. It gives you more options for higher load accessories than the FZ-1 Fuzeblock. I have the PC-8 on my wife's NT and the only 1 thing hooked to the unswitched circuit is the Powerlet outlet on the Helibar riser (allows for me to use it also as a port for the battery tender). Everything else is switched (Heated gear, Motolights, J&M CB, Heated grips, and USB port in glove box).

Here's a link to a thread on my install. It might give you some ideas on your install.

I am looking at installing a fuse box on my NT. I think I am going to go with an Eastern Beaver PC-8, but I have some questions about the number and type of circuits I may want. I see that the FZ-1 Fuzeblock is popular, and that you can choose whether to make each circuit switched, or unswitched. My question is, other than for hooking up a charger, what would one use the unswitched circuits for? I have seen people talk about having a GPS hooked up to one, but the only GPS unit I've ever had (a Garmin) ran off its battery, which the vehicle just recharged when plugged in, so I would be able to use it with the power off anyway.

The PC-8 has two unswitched circuits and 6 switched. I have a small dongle with ring connectors on the battery right now (it is freakin' frigid here) that the battery maintainer hooks up to, so I could even leave that in place. That would mean I don't have a plan for either of the unswitched circuits. I'm sure I could find a less expensive fusebox if it didn't have both types of circuits. Should I look for one of these instead?

If this has already been covered, please direct me to the thread. Thanks.

-Tim

 

[charlie b]

I have to admit here that I am cheaper than most.

I would go to the auto parts store and buy one of the small fuse blocks for about $20 and a heavy duty relay to power it. Run the entire thing switched. Not a need for more than 4 new circuits anyway, especially if you use Honda's stock accessory harness for everything up front. It will handle 10 A so heated grips and phone/GPS charger are taken care of there. Wire aux lights into the light circuit. (PS I also hate to run wires back and forth the length of the bike for anything).

Every GPS I have had worked off of an internal battery for a short period of time so there is nothing that needs power when the bike is shut down. Now days I use my phone as a GPS anyway. I have never had the need for a battery tender and my air compressor has battery clips for when I need it (it stores behind the seat so I have direct access to the battery if I need to use the compressor).

Short answer is I see no reason to have any unswitched circuits.

KISS

 

[elizilla]

I installed a single unswitched outlet on my NT, which was intended for several purposes:

1. Battery tender.
2. Plug in my air compressor if I have a flat and need to inflate my tire on the roadside.
3. It was conveniently located for a passenger to plug in their heated gear. Not something that would be left running by mistake.

I never actually used it for any of these things. I never parked it long enough to need a battery tender, I never got a flat on it, and I never carried anyone who actually owned any heated gear. But it looked cool and I used it once or twice to plug in a phone or GPS.

 

[elizilla]

On the Super10 I have wired my Denali driving lights to come on only with the high beams. It's elegant for actual real life use, but it turns out to be a nuisance too. Because at every bike night, someone comes up and asks me how I like those lights, how bright they are, etc? And the Super10's high beams won't come on unless the engine is running, so I can't turn them on without starting the bike. If I were rewiring it again today I might put a second switch on an unswitched circuit, that would allow me to turn them on when the bike is turned off, just for bike nights.

 

[Warren]

If you have the Denalis mouinted on the fender like I do, you don't have to worry about blasting people you pull up behind of at lights.

I've got my GPS on an unswitched circuit because it doesn't have a battery -- I've got the Zumo 350LM and when I'm traveling I usually leave it on except at night. Couldn't do that if it was on a switched circuit.

The Zumo 350LM does not have a battery ?

 

[Phil Tarman]

The Zumo 350LM does not have a battery ?

Well, I don't think so. I'll have to check.

 

[Rich]

The Zumo 350LM does not have a battery ?

According to Garmin it has a battery with 7 hours life. I think all the Zumos do. When I want the 660 to run without the bike being turned on, I just either push the power button (if it was off) or tell it to stay on when I kill the ignition. So what gives, Phil, did you just remove the battery?

 

[Phil Tarman]

No, I didn't remove anything. I'm not sure why I didn't realize it had a battery. I had checked earlier and learned that it did.

BTW, I noticed that Garmin is again selling a lower-cost motorcycle GPS, the Zumo 220 for "only" $399.

I'm happy with my 350LM, but there are things I miss about my StreetPilot 2720.

 

[Kneebyter]

Charlie - is there a particular type or brand of fuse box that you are talking about getting from an auto parts store? One of the things that appealed to me about the PC-8 and FZ-1 is that you can get the neat little wiring bundle all put together already. I'm not well-versed in doing DC wiring, so this way I wouldn't have to do a bunch of research on, source, and then put together the wiring/relay bundle myself. I did order the Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems that Wayne recommended on another thread. I am a fast learner and already know the basics, so maybe I will wait until I read that before I make any decisions. I am leaning towards not need any unswitched circuits now.

Would the light circuits up front take the extra load of aux lights like Denalis?

 

[Phil Tarman]

Would the light circuits up front take the extra load of aux lights like Denalis?

Those circuits could, I guess, serve as a trigger for the relay that's part of the Denali wiring harness. But I don't think you could add another 10W to that circuit without dimming your headlights or overloading the wiring to them.

 

[charlie b]

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Fuse-Block-Fuse-Panel-For-Blade-Type-Fuses/_/R-BK_7825316_0361085944

You do have to wire in your own relay to power it as a switched circuit. You are going to have to tap into the bike's wiring harness somewhere to get switched power so do please learn a little bit about wiring. Really all you need to know is that there is a pos and neg side, wire size to handle the power you need and how a relay works.

Electricity (DC) can be thought of like a water hose. The wire is the hose. The larger the hose, the more water can flow. The larger the wire, the more electricity can flow. But, you need water pressure to make it go. That is voltage. The actual flow of water is the current. Resistance to the flow is like using a valve. Open it a little and you get a trickle or remove the resistance and you get full flow. Or, use a smaller hose (smaller wire) and that reduces the water flow (current). A switch is a valve that is open or closed. A water wheel is the load (like a headlight).

Hope I haven't confused you

The aux circuit on the Honda is fuzed for 10A, so you could have heated grips and LED aux lights both on that circuit.

 

[charlie b]

Just want to show alternatives.

Also should evaluate why you are buying it and is an aux fuze block even needed. If you aren't running heated vest and such will the stock Acc harness provide the power you need? Honda even has a wiring setup to connect to that harness and a 12V receptacle for it that are reasonably priced, so there is no need for wiring skills at all.

And, yes, I am a cheap old fart.

 

[U20417]

And, yes, I am a cheap old fart.

We are frugal Charlie, not cheap! LOL

 

[bicyclist]

I need only one unswitched circuit. That is served by an SAE fused pigtail wired directly to the battery. It can be used to charge the battery or power heated gear or a pump. Everything else is powered through a switched fuse block. All of my bikes are set up this way. I don't find that I have the need to power anything when the bike isn't running. The GPS receiver has a battery and I have a flashlight.

On my budget Versys, I used Charlie's method. The setup consists of a relay and 6 position fuse block. Something to keep in mind is that the fuse block doesn't have a ground buss. You can run your grounds to a terminal strip or stack them up under one bolt or find individual grounding points near each circuit. I stacked them up, but intend to go back and add a terminal strip. For the relay, you can wire in a relay socket or just make up your wiring harness with push-on connectors plugged onto the relay.

 

[Kneebyter]

Another factor in my electrical farkles is that if I sell the bike I would want to keep all the toys I put on it. This means I would need to be able to get it back to stock. I really like the 6-pin connector get-up that Rob (Rmcapozzi) installed with his PC-8. Before that, I was wondering how you remove those things that are installed using Posi-taps and other similar products. Does anybody else hook things up like that? Do you plan on just leaving anything electrical as it is if you sell? Or is there a good way to remove a Posi-tap?

After reading George's post I looked up the SAE connector he mentioned. That is the exact connector I have (wired with ring terminals directly to the battery) on the bike now for my battery maintainer. If that is a fairly universal plug, I guess I have the unswitched circuit taken care of already. One thing down, 57 more to go!

 

[RedLdr1]

Or is there a good way to remove a Posi-tap?

I remove all easily removable electrical farkles and their associated wiring when I trade in a bike. I just remove the Posi-Tap and use a dab of Liquid Tape over any hole in the insulation if it is visible.... Most of the time just heating the wire's insulation and rubbing your fingers over it will seal the hole.

The old style scotch squeeze locks did a lot of damage to a wire's insulation, a Posi-Tap doesn't do nearly as much. That is why I converted to all Posi-Taps when I need to "tap" a circuit.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

I normally leave the accessories on the bike. I just prefer to use OEM style connectors to avoid permanently altering the wiring harness because it improves reliability of my wiring and provides a clean way of isolating my after market mods in case I mess up something or need to trouble shoot. Being able to rule out my own alterations can really help isolate problems. Keeping the after market wiring isolated also allows me to alter the after market wiring should I need to without worrying about leftover holes in the wires. The Posi-taps are much better than the old style but my preference is to avoid such mechanical splices at all times (its a trust issue I have.... :smile: ). If I need to alter an existing OEM harness and I can't do it via OEM terminal harness, I'll strip the wire and solder on my pigtail wrapping and isolating the wires just like the OEM harness so it looks like it was just part of the original and then use OEM plugs to attach my accessories again allowing for easy isolation of my after market wiring.

Another factor in my electrical farkles is that if I sell the bike I would want to keep all the toys I put on it. This means I would need to be able to get it back to stock. I really like the 6-pin connector get-up that Rob (Rmcapozzi) installed with his PC-8. Before that, I was wondering how you remove those things that are installed using Posi-taps and other similar products. Does anybody else hook things up like that? Do you plan on just leaving anything electrical as it is if you sell? Or is there a good way to remove a Posi-tap?

After reading George's post I looked up the SAE connector he mentioned. That is the exact connector I have (wired with ring terminals directly to the battery) on the bike now for my battery maintainer. If that is a fairly universal plug, I guess I have the unswitched circuit taken care of already. One thing down, 57 more to go!