The Dreaded Pannier Latches

[androu]

Well, I finally had a problem with the latches. I know this has been discussed to death and most agree it's not a good design, just thought I'd add my own experience to the pile. Stopped at the pharmacy to fill a prescription, went to stash my jacket in the left side box and it wouldn't shut! I got really frustrated and slammed it a few times, cursed under my breath and then took a deep breath and started trouble-shooting. It seems the "hook" part of the mechanism (under the seat) wasn't snapping back into position to recieve the "loop" portion of the latch (on the pannier lid). I took the seat off and pushed the latch back into position with a screwdriver from the inside, and was able to shut the lid securely. When I got home, I noted a lot of dirty grease built up around the latches. I dowsed everything I could get at with WD-40, cleaned up the mess, and worked the latches in and out about a hundred times with no failures. Worked OK today after my commute to work, but now I'm worried it will continue to happen, probably when most inconvenient. So far, it's the only thing I really don't like about this bike.

 

[karl]

I don't have as many miles on my bike as some here do. Use it most every day and use the bags each time I ride. The factory lube seems to pick up detritus and makes the latches stick. Once after riding in the wet in Vermont after the hurricane they had a lot of stone moving over the roads and enough dust stuck in the latch to make it not open. Cleaning out the factory lube and replacing it it with a dry lubricant has solved that problem for me. The bag release system is my least favorite part of the bike but it has worked for me but does demand a light touch. Use over time has probably polished both the latch parts and the way I deal with them they continue to work every day you just can't treat it like a 63 Chevy or a government mule.

 

[Bear]

I use my bags every time I ride--packing them with groceries, jackets, etc. I took Karl's advice quite a while ago and gave the latches a bath with Mineral Spirits and then lubed them with Finish Line Dry Bicycle chain lube. I used a syringe to inject the lube into the cable housings. To deal with future failures, I carry one of those tiny cans of WD-40. I have not had to use it yet.

I am always careful not to catch one of the straps in the lid when closing or forcing anything. Also overloading the pannier can cause the lid to stick.

 

[androu]

I am always careful not to catch one of the straps in the lid when closing or forcing anything. Also overloading the pannier can cause the lid to stick.

Yeah, the straps sometimes want to flop over to the outside and get caught, I've had that happen a few times as well. When I get a chance, I'll clean up all the hardware I can get at with solvent and try some dry lubricant.

 

[tawilke46]

I used a teflon lubricant I use on my firearms. Works real well. I try to keep the inside locks and latches well lubricated as well as much of the cables as I can reach.
I also removed the metal latch from the lids and using a fine metal file smoothed all the rough edges. Doing this seems to help the latches work more smoothly.
Also I am very gentle opening and closing the lids.

 

[Bear]

Tim,
If you know a Diabetic, see if he or she will give you a used syringe or two. They make WONDERFUL cable oilers especially with dry lubes. I wish I could find Dri-Slide gun lubricant somewhere--been told they don't make it anymore. Worked great on the AK-47

 

[tawilke46]

My wife uses small syringes to give herself a daily shot of Copaxone for her MS. May save one of those and see if I could use it.

 

[androu]

Tim,
If you know a Diabetic, see if he or she will give you a used syringe or two. They make WONDERFUL cable oilers especially with dry lubes. I wish I could find Dri-Slide gun lubricant somewhere--been told they don't make it anymore. Worked great on the AK-47

Are you injecting lubricant through outside of the cable housing, or just into the ends of it?

 

[tawilke46]

Just into the ends of the cable sheath. Then move the cables back and forth the best you can to help spread the lube.
Never thought of shooting into the sheath with a hypo. Needle would likely break off.

 

[Phil Tarman]

After I cleaned the factory goop off the pannier latching mechanism, I just squirted it good with silcone lube and that's kept it working for at least 8-10 months without any troubles.

 

[Bear]

That's for sure, definitely would break. I use a 23Ga needle on a 10cc syringe. You have to use a lube that is very light. WD-40 works well for washing grease out of the mechanism.

 

[enigmatic biker]

I had the same issue with mine as well. The good news that like all of you, after unsticking the mechanism I used silicone based spray and haven't had any issues since (knock on wood). It did sorta "hack" me off the first time since I didn't have enough time and light to fiddle around and fix it at the rest area. Thank God I carry a small roll of duct tape and just taped her up till I got home.
Len

 

[WVRider]

Learned my lesson not long after purchasing my NT. If the lid will not shut, do not get frustrated and start slamming the lid. You can bend the latch inside and then really have alot of work ahead of you. If it doesn't shut, often you can just pull the latch again and get it to flip the correct way. I've been able to correct it the couple times if has happend since then. One othe time I had to pull the lever and use my pocket knife to just touch the latch inside and it worked fine. Use the methods mentioned in the post to keep it clean and don't use a sticky oil to lube. Dry lube works best. I'm in the middle of a two week trip and 1500 miles into it and have only once had the latch not allow me to close the lid. I merely pulled the lever again and heard the latch pop in place. The lid then closed easily.

DJ

 

[androu]

So keeping the mechanism clean and lubed helps, as does being gentle with the lids when closing. I'm going to do my best to do both. Still, it just seems like an overly complicated, delicate, and failure prone system. I prefer stuff that is rugged, reliable, and idiot proof. Chances are, when you have a failure it will be in the middle of nowhere, at night, while it's raining.

 

[tawilke46]

Chances are, when you have a failure it will be in the middle of nowhere, at night, while it's raining.

That is what is commonly called "Murphy's Law". Yep, that is when a failure typically happens!

 

[Chuck 500]

Haven't had any latch issues yet (knock wood). One thing I did notice very early is that these lid do NOT like to be slammed. For one thing, the case is so air tight that slamming just build up enough pressure to keep the lid from seating properly. Close it slowly and they work fine. If a lid won't close I look for the reason. Usually it is soemthing not fully in the case or one of the retaining srtaps has conspired to interfere.

 

[Warren]

I have had no problems since I started lubing the latches and cables with ACF-50. This is amazing stuff and I have found many uses for it on the NT. Since I have to park my NT outdoors having corrosion protection is very important.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/acf50.php

HOW IT WORKS: ACF-50, Anti-Corrosion Formula, is a state of the art, anti-corrosion lubricant compound,
specifically designed for the Aero Space Industry. It is an ultra Thin Fluid Film Compound (TFFC) that actively treats
metal using advanced polar bonding technology. As seen from the diagrams, ACF-50?s synthetic inhibitors and active
chemistry penetrates through the oxide deposits (white powder) to the base of the corrosion cell where it emulsifies,
encapsulates, and then lifts the electrolyte away from the metal surface. ACF-50 then allows this moisture to
evaporate while providing an atmospheric barrier that prevents further moisture contact. With the electrolyte removed
the corrosion process is halted. ACF-50 actively penetrates and ?creeps? into the tightest seams, lap joints, micro
cracks, and around rivet heads, displacing moisture and other corrosive fluids (orange juice, coke, coffee, salt water)
in these corrosion prone areas. ACF-50?s thin film acts like an ?OFF SWITCH? for corrosion remaining effective for up
to 24 months.