The Zip Tie method. Retire the irons and spoons.

Joined
Jun 16, 2019
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2010 NT700V
I change a few tires per year, so I try to avoid shops to save on the labor charge. I've known about the zip tie method for some time, but never seriously considered it as more than a parlor trick. Well, after giving it a shot I'm kicking myself for not doing this on all previous tire changes. My usual method involved the standard battle with tire spoons, rim protectors, and plenty of expletives to go around. For the zip tie method you'll need some "Heavy Duty" zip ties. Break the bead using whatever your go to method is (I have a BeadBuster XB-450), and favorite tire lube as well.

I just did the front on NT700V. No irons were required for removal or install. Elbow grease is still required to peel the tire off the rim. Grab rim with one hand, pull tire off with the other. You'll want the end of the tire directly across from where you're trying to start the peel tucked up into the drop-center of the rim..
ziptire - Copy.jpg


I wouldn't say the zip tie method is quicker than using spoons, but it's way easier and there's essentially no risk of rim damage. I look at it like painting. Take the time during the prep work applying the zip ties, and the tire will come off and go on in under a minute.

The idea is to get the two tire beads to come together, so the whole tire can be passed over in one motion. My slight modification on the zip tie method is to use a soft jaw bar clamp, like this one https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jorgensen-12-in-33700Series-Bar-Clamp/1000988552 and pinch the beads together while I apply the zip ties. In the few videos showing this out there, you'll see folks kneeling on the tire or trying to hold it compressed with one hand and wrestling with the zip tie in the other. Way easier to let the clamp hold the tire, cinch a zip tie next to it and then move to the next location. The clamp is especially helpful on the old tire, as you're threading the zip ties between the bead and the rim. For new tire install: apply the ties, Lube up the tire like normal and just press it down around the rim.

You could simply snip the ties, or try and save them. I try to reuse them, as there might be one or two changes left in them. I use a 90 degree o-ring pick to pull back on the lockjaw while I slide the tie back through.
 
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Lance

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Nice write up. I have heard of that but never seen pic or a good explanation for doing it
thanks for the info
 
OP
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A bit more about removal. Once I got a side of the tire over the rim to get the peel going, I stood the wheel up vertical between my feet. I was able to lean over and push straight down on the tire. Once about half way the rim should just come free.

Install is pretty similar to spoons. Rim stays horizontal the whole time. Just work the tire around like you would with tools, but simply pushing down by hand.
 
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GREAT IDEA!!! Where were you the last 50 years? I have left knuckle and knee skin on many tires and rims.
 

mikesim

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I saw this on You Tube once and it looked too good to be true.

Mike
 
OP
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I'll be doing the rear sometime this week, possibly tomorrow. I'll update how difficult it was vs the front.
 

DirtFlier

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Doing a rear tire is not something I look forward to doing and by comparison, the front tire is easy to do. It's not only the width but the rear tire's sidewall has a lot more strength. :-(
 
OP
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It's funny you say that. I've always found the rear tire on any bike to be easier (at least the traditional spoon method). There's more real estate in the drop-center to work with. I've always found the front to be more annoying.
 
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For some of us both front and rear are quite annoying.
I will have to keep this method in mind next tire change.

Brad
 

DirtFlier

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No-Mar has a "Tire Mount Lubricant" that appears at first glance to be men's hair pomade for those of you who remember those days. It really helps to put a thin coat of it on both tire beads during installation as per their instructions. The last few front tires I installed, the first bead slipped onto the rim without much effort and and the second bead got about 3/4s on before I had to use a tire iron. I consider myself not strong in the arms & hands. :)

ps. I've found the No-Mar stuff to work much better than Ruglyde (sp?) which I'd used for eons. And it helps to get the beads seated when filling with air; especially that last bit when they finally go "POP."
 
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OP
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I forgot where I read its recommendation some years ago. (I think it was a Goldwing site). But for tire lube I've been using original Armor-All for what has to be a few dozen tire changes by now. The stuff is quite slick.
 

Lance

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Thats what I use, Armor-all never had an issue
 
OP
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Well, the rear was mixed results but that may be because the new tire was room temp. I probably would of had much better luck if I set it in the sun for a while. Maybe next time.

The old tire went pretty smoothly. Zip ties went on easy enough with the clamp. To get a peel going, I did have to cheat and use a spoon by standing the wheel vertical and prying the top over in one location. Once over I was able to just push down and the tire came off easy enough.

Going on was another story. I got the new tire about half way and struggled for 10-15 mins to coax it the rest of the way to no avail. I wound up clipping the cable ties off and just finishing it with spoons. Next time I think I'll try putting on the ties and let it roast in the sun while I work on getting the old tire off.
 

WVRider

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Wow ! Just wow ! I used this method last night to change my own front tire and it worked so slick. I had purchased a static wheel balancer a while back then a bead breaker and tire tools recently so decided to try it last night. I'm ready to change the rear now. That was great ! I also used a small screwdriver to release the catch on the zip ties and was able to use them for removal and installation and will likely be able to use them for a while.

Thanks for the info !
 

Sunny

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Wow ! Just wow ! I used this method last night to change my own front tire and it worked so slick. I had purchased a static wheel balancer a while back then a bead breaker and tire tools recently so decided to try it last night. I'm ready to change the rear now. That was great ! I also used a small screwdriver to release the catch on the zip ties and was able to use them for removal and installation and will likely be able to use them for a while.

Thanks for the info !
you can get Reusable Zip Ties too:

Heavy Duty 200 Packs Round Ending No Hurt 6+8+10+12 Inch As... https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XJC8L37/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_inscFbCKYKFVF
 

DirtFlier

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The rear tire on my NC700X is about 2 months from needing replacement so I plan to try the Zip-tie method. :cool:
 
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OP
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2010 NT700V
The rear tire on my NC700X is about 2 months from needing replacement so I plan to try to Zip-tie method. :cool:
For a rear I would definitely try getting the new one warmed up. That's what I'm going to try next.

The following is a photo I took showing using a bar clamp to hold the NT rear beads (Bridgestone T30) together while I threaded the zip tie around.

DSC_0033 - Copy.JPG
 

DirtFlier

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I just now ordered a Pilot Road 4 from Iron Pony. Heating up the tire will NOT be a problem with our daytime highs in the upper-80s and low-90s! I have some of those adjustable clamps so will use them for the install.

I was watching a video on the No-mar website the other day and Sue (No-Mar co-owner) provided some good tips. I have some of their installation gel and now realize I've been too liberal with my application, making the tire too slippery on the rim. She said to install a thin coating all the way around the drop center of the rim but on the tire bead, only from 10-to-2. That last bit should remain dry so it holds better.

I'll review that video again before I actually do the install since I'm old and tend to forget things. Is it Saturday? :)
 
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