Thicker CeeBailey?

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bicyclist

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Evidently the Honda OEM w/s sits flush with the mounting brackets while the CB does not. So when tightening the bolts some stress is introduced into the windshield.
I think I heard that somewhere:
Part of the issue may be that the stock shield is shaped to sit flat on the mounting brackets and the CeeBailey isn't.
:tongue:
 

tawilke46

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Yeah, I remember reading that in your post......I was just reiterating what the guy said in the video. Just reinforces what you posted.
 
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I know that the Tech Guy was involved in the development of the Cee Bailey w/s and they did not have the curve of the shield correct at first which caused stress and difficulty raising and lowering. That issue (in the video) was addressed by Cee Bailey rather early on as well as the mirror issue. I just received my new 2" larger version and it seems thicker than the stock. I have not measured it because I have not removed the plastic shipping cover. Will post when I go to install it. Can't wait!
 
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I just received my new 2" larger version and it is thicker than the stock.
Does the thicker shield come with new mounting screws? I ask because the stock mounting screws will crush a thicker shield. Maybe that's OK. The stock mounting screws do not crush the stock shield or a replacement shield of the same thickness at the mounting holes.

Here is a pic of the stock screw used to mount the windshield.
http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2240&d=1311095254

The shield should be the same thickness as the height of the unthreaded portion of the screw.

If the shield thickness at the mounting hole is thinner than the height of the unthreaded portion of the screw, the shield will be loose when the screw is tightened. The screw is tight because the bottom of the shouldered section is tight against the bracket it screws in to, but the shield will be loose.

If the shield thickness at the mounting hole is thicker than the height of the unthreaded portion of the screw, the screw will be crushing the shield at the mounting hole as it is tightened. The bottom of the shouldered section will not have contacted the bracket in to which it is screwed. Tightening the screw will crush the shield more.

If the shield thickness at the mounting hole is nearly equal as the height of the unthreaded portion of the screw, the bottom of the screw's shoulder is tightened to the mounting bracket, the shield is just held snug as the bottom the screw head contacts the shield. The shield is not crushed if the screw tightened.

I would not accept a thinner shield. I would not accept a thicker shield unless CB provided either new mounting screws or guaranteed crushing the shield with stock screws is safe.
 

Phil Tarman

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+ 1 to what Dan says. His explanation of the stock mounting screws design is spot-on. The thickness needs to be the same as the stock screen.
 
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Here I go responding to a dead thread. Any way, I received my new Cee Bailey +2 today and measured the thickness at about 5mm. The stock windscreen is 4mm. I noticed the stock screen in the area of the mounting holes is thicker than the rest of the screen, presumably to avoid cracking at those stress points. Also, CB in its instructions (who reads instructions?!) suggests the mounting bolts should be torqued to 5 inch pounds, which is hardly anything.

I had a CB on my dear old Concours for 8 years, without any cracking or other problems. (The no-name aftermarket wind screen on my '87 BMW K75 S cracked at the mounting points, necessitating drilling the cracks' ends to arrest progression). I am hopeful my latest purchase proves as sturdy as was the Conk's CB screen.

Kind regards

Hugh Straub
 

Coyote Chris

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Well, that's interesting....my Connie CB which I have had for 14 years and has never cracked is a .225". My new plus 6 CB for my NT is .191, same as my plus 4 I just took off today.....the note said that we should use 3-5 inch pounds which is the same as putting on a water bottle cap just tight enough to seal it.....I am wondering if thin neopreane washers somewhere or even a gasket would be useful?

Here I go responding to a dead thread. Any way, I received my new Cee Bailey +2 today and measured the thickness at about 5mm. The stock windscreen is 4mm. I noticed the stock screen in the area of the mounting holes is thicker than the rest of the screen, presumably to avoid cracking at those stress points. Also, CB in its instructions (who reads instructions?!) suggests the mounting bolts should be torqued to 5 inch pounds, which is hardly anything.

I had a CB on my dear old Concours for 8 years, without any cracking or other problems. (The no-name aftermarket wind screen on my '87 BMW K75 S cracked at the mounting points, necessitating drilling the cracks' ends to arrest progression). I am hopeful my latest purchase proves as sturdy as was the Conk's CB screen.

Kind regards

Hugh Straub
 

Phil Tarman

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I am wondering if thin neopreane washers somewhere or even a gasket would be useful?
I tried that and it didn't work. My current CeeBailey cracked before I left on the Epic Ride. I stop-drilled it and the crack spread so I stop-drilled it again in Houston and the crack hasn't spread any farther.
 

Coyote Chris

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Hey Phil. I do find these cracks interesting. I have seen one of these windscreens crack, actually. One of our members (not you) that I know has dropped his NT a number of times and had a cracked screen, which CB replaced pronto....but if the dropping had anything to do with it, I don't know. I also don't know if high speed (I drive the limit mostly) , gusty winds, vibration, etc is the issue, or it is the physics of the way the screen is mounted. I like CB and if anyone can point out a flaw in THEIR design over Honda's, I am sure they would appreciate it. Till then, I will still use them and carry a roll of duct tape and maybe my battery operated dremil with a drill bit or two. I am sure my Connie CB hasn't cracked cause it is thicker and way more securely mounted.

Chris looking for a 3 in lb torque wrench (three pounds of Hamburger on a one inch torque arm???)


I tried that and it didn't work. My current CeeBailey cracked before I left on the Epic Ride. I stop-drilled it and the crack spread so I stop-drilled it again in Houston and the crack hasn't spread any farther.
 

Phil Tarman

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Chris, my first CeeBailey was definitely thinner than the stock screen (and also thinner than the replacement CeeBailey sent me. I was riding on the Cimmaron Turnpike West of Tulsa on my way down to Texas for my ex-mother-in-law's funeral. I was running about 80mph and there was a gusty headwind at 25-40mph. The crack started at the top of the upper left mounting hole and spread toward the center of the screen. In just a few minutes a matching crack started toward the outside of the screen. That one ended up going all the way to the outside of the screen while the on going to the middle curved down to the bottom of the screen about an inch or two away from the right-side mounting bracket. At that point I had a two-piece windscreen that was flopping around.

I stopped in Henrietta and bought a roll of "duct" tape that wasn't very good. It was just all I could find. By the time I'd gotten another 50 miles down the Indian Nations Turnpike, that tape had torn. I stopped at a service center on the Turnpike and asked a Highway Patrolman stopped at the store if he had any real duct tape. He didn't and I razzed him about not being prepared. The store had the same kind of duct tape I'd bought in Henrietta. It was starting to rain and I wasn't excited about not having a windshield.

About that time the lady who ran the store said that they ought to have something better I could use. She went back and dug around in her tape inventory and came out with some silver tape I hadn't seen. It was something the highway patrolman called "100mph tape." It was great and lasted me the rest of the ride to Texas and back to Fort Morgan.

This screen started cracking on a typical eastern Colorado day. I was probably running between 75-80mph and I'm sure that the wind was blowing some. The crack started at the top of the top mounting hole on the right hand side of the bike and only grew about an inch and half before I got home and stop-drilled it. When it started cracking again, I was somewhere around Junction, TX, and it moved about an inch and half by the time I got to Katy, TX, and borrowed my brother-in-law's place and stop-drilled it again.

My theory is that the corner of the mounting bracket is square and only a half-inch or so from the mounting hole and that if the bracket itself were longer, the cracks wouldn't occur.
 
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