I am picking up a used nt today, I have been watching and looking at them for awhile now. I will post more about the bike later. Owner said no problems and very clean, low miles. I have been watching and reading about the tire change on the rear. I was wondering if anybody tried to put the bike on the centerstand on a block of wood to raise up the bike off the ground more and would the axle bolt be easier to remove, so in other words does the back end drop down more? Oil changes are easy and make sure the oil filter is short so centerstand does not hit. Thanks ahead for any info.
Tire Change on new NT?
- Thread starter timc490310
- Start date
Not sure I understand the tire question. When up on the centerstand the rear wheel is already off the ground so putting it on a block of wood will not drop the wheel anymore. Be careful working on the centerstand, esp if on wood or something. A long time ago I had the rear wheel off a 650 Yamaha. I ended up pushing the bike off the stand and the swingarm landed on my toe. Needed ER visit for stitches.
Several here use a lift such as from Harbor Freight. I have the room so I have a raised plywood platform that has a dropout section under the rear wheel. It is tight in there but it saves me from plastic removal.
Brad
Several here use a lift such as from Harbor Freight. I have the room so I have a raised plywood platform that has a dropout section under the rear wheel. It is tight in there but it saves me from plastic removal.
Brad
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2019
- Messages
- 545
- Bike
- 2010 NT700V
As stated, putting the center stand on a block of wood isn't going to gain you any advantages. The final drive splines will support the wheel while you slide out the axle, you may just have to wiggle the tire a bit as you pull . There's no need to support the tire from the bottom like you would on a chain driven bike with traditional swingarm. The only time you need to support the bottom of the tire is when you're taking it off the drive splines, or lifting it back onto the drive splines.
Speaking of drive splines, make sure you get a high % molybdenum disulfide paste (NOT grease) to coat them with before putting the wheel back.
I'd recommend picking up a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cruztools-AW142227-14mm-Combo-Wrench/dp/B005U80C0K/
27 mm end will cover the axle nut, 22 mm end will cover the axle head. I also purchased a 1/2" drive 14 mm Hex Bit Socket (fit with a shallow 3/8 to 1/2 adapter when I'm using 3/8 drive tools). I pass it through the 14 mm opening in those axle wrenches, and I can pop in a breaker bar or ratchet to extend torque advantage when removing.
Speaking of drive splines, make sure you get a high % molybdenum disulfide paste (NOT grease) to coat them with before putting the wheel back.
I'd recommend picking up a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cruztools-AW142227-14mm-Combo-Wrench/dp/B005U80C0K/
27 mm end will cover the axle nut, 22 mm end will cover the axle head. I also purchased a 1/2" drive 14 mm Hex Bit Socket (fit with a shallow 3/8 to 1/2 adapter when I'm using 3/8 drive tools). I pass it through the 14 mm opening in those axle wrenches, and I can pop in a breaker bar or ratchet to extend torque advantage when removing.
Woodaddict
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2012
- Messages
- 895
- Age
- 64
- Location
- Salisbury,NC
- 2024 Mileage
- 008308
- Bike
- Red NT700V & Spyder RTL
what your thinking is trying to drop out the wheel with block of wood to make it higher. what you don't realize is the black center between saddlebags where license plate is, comes off. thru each bag take out the flat head bolts that go thru into holding the black cowl in place, I also loosen the others to relieve pressure of being so tight holding cowl in place. once free, twist out plate light and set aside
Last edited:
Just got tires put on my NT700. Shinko 705 series (80/20)
www.shinkotireusa.com
Tire ost $190 (Front: $88.6, Rear: $101.5) Cycel Gear , shipped to store.
Installation: $190 (OTD) at dealer.
Uber to and form dealer: $21
My friend had promised to help me swap out the tires, but his house was far (say $75 uber ride) and Cycle gear was not committing to return the tire same day. SO I figured, between Uber, and time spend,it was better to drop at the dealer.
Cycle gear months and balances the tire for $25 per tire.
705 Series Dual Sport Tire
The Shinko 705 has a versatile tread pattern that provides excellent wet and dry weather adhesion and smooth running on the highway.
www.shinkotireusa.com
Tire ost $190 (Front: $88.6, Rear: $101.5) Cycel Gear , shipped to store.
Installation: $190 (OTD) at dealer.
Uber to and form dealer: $21
My friend had promised to help me swap out the tires, but his house was far (say $75 uber ride) and Cycle gear was not committing to return the tire same day. SO I figured, between Uber, and time spend,it was better to drop at the dealer.
Cycle gear months and balances the tire for $25 per tire.
Attachments
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
Ask - Are you planning to so some light off-work riding on a regular basis? I've been down plenty of dirt roads with my NT - mainly because I was forced into it by road construction - and the normal Michelins did OK but I certainly wouldn't go out of my way to go trail riding on the NT. ps. I do have some dirt experience from about a hundred years ago! 
timC - I removed the rear wheel on Deb's NT in a hotel parking lot when she had a worn tire fail. I had to remove the tail section and it came out OK. If you don't do that, it's nearly impossible to get it out!
timC - I removed the rear wheel on Deb's NT in a hotel parking lot when she had a worn tire fail. I had to remove the tail section and it came out OK. If you don't do that, it's nearly impossible to get it out!
Last edited:
mikesim
Site Supporter
Don't use just any high % moly grease, use the genuine Honda stuff or equivalent. It's available on Amazon, search for Honda Moly 60 paste although now I think it is M81. Here is the correct nomenclature for the paste Honda HN 08798-9010 MOLY PASTE (M77) .
Mike
Last edited:
if that Q was for me, yup, I am thinking of exploring some fire + dual track roads... + I love to hike, so I ride to trail heads and hike from there.
Some trail heads are at end of unpaved roads, and since my old tires had almost reached end of life i decided to go with the Shinko were 80/20.
Did ~70+ miles of highway today and the bike does feel happy to lean into corners / tip.
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2019
- Messages
- 545
- Bike
- 2010 NT700V
I did a bit of reading on that a few months ago when I couldn't find the Moly 60 mentioned in the service manual. The M77 should work fine, but I'm using Loctite Moly Paste, now being sold as "LB 8012. Metal Free anti-seize". Got a small 8 oz tub with cap brush applicator off Amazon.
mikesim
Site Supporter
Yup! That's the good stuff. The Moly60 referred to in the manual has been superceded by the M77 which actually has a higher Moly content. I think the M60 must have caused cancer in a laboratory rat somewhere in California.
Mike
Hey thanks for the info, after I got the bike home I put it on the centerstand. Bike only has 2500 miles. So if you break the nut loose, put the bike in the air more, will the tire drop out after pulling the bolt? Another question is does the nt drive train make noise when spinning the wheel. I was going to pull the wheel and lube it up or should I just wait till I get tires, thanks
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2019
- Messages
- 545
- Bike
- 2010 NT700V
The only way I see to have the tire "drop out" safely, would be to use a lift stand with a removable panel below the wheel like the Harbor Freight lift does.
The rear fender isn't that hard to remove. Pull the fender, wiggle the wheel off the drive splines (assuming you've already pulled the axle, rear brake caliper, and swingarm collar by the pinch bolt) and just roll it out.
(note: You don't have to remove the exhaust as mentioned in the below video.)
The rear fender isn't that hard to remove. Pull the fender, wiggle the wheel off the drive splines (assuming you've already pulled the axle, rear brake caliper, and swingarm collar by the pinch bolt) and just roll it out.
(note: You don't have to remove the exhaust as mentioned in the below video.)
Last edited:
Woodaddict
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2012
- Messages
- 895
- Age
- 64
- Location
- Salisbury,NC
- 2024 Mileage
- 008308
- Bike
- Red NT700V & Spyder RTL
with only 2,500 miles your still brand new. just wait till tire change. the splines between tire and final drive are only static straight mesh gears. the splines there need the moly paste, cause they move back and forth with the play very slightly, the paste helps reduce wear. the helicial gears are in the final drive with thicker fluid. you might get any noise, but its normal noise
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2019
- Messages
- 545
- Bike
- 2010 NT700V
If they're the original tires, that puts them almost a decade old. I'd change them before riding around the block.
I am looking into that as well.
Woodaddict
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2012
- Messages
- 895
- Age
- 64
- Location
- Salisbury,NC
- 2024 Mileage
- 008308
- Bike
- Red NT700V & Spyder RTL
heck, 1 H is good as another H...………………………..lol
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2019
- Messages
- 545
- Bike
- 2010 NT700V
I'm just amazed how many low mileage NTs there are out there. How do you spend a bunch of cash on a touring bike and only put 250 miles per year on it? 50cc scooters see heavier use.
I've only had my NT for like 4 1/2 months and I've done 21K so far.
I've only had my NT for like 4 1/2 months and I've done 21K so far.
mikesim
Site Supporter
Most of the folks on this forum are riders. I'm amazed when I look at Craig's List, 20 year old Harley's with 5,000 miles on 'em. They will tell you... "Why I been ridin' for twenty years..." when actually, they have learned to ride twenty times...
Mike
Mike