OP
OP
I always adjusted the Connie's to the loose side of specification. They lasted a long time.
That's what I'll do with the NT when I learn to adjust them.
Valve Check Intervals
- Thread starter Phil Tarman
- Start date
I always adjusted the Connie's to the loose side of specification. They lasted a long time.
That's what I'll do with the NT when I learn to adjust them.
I had a powerplant instructor in A & P school that used the term but never defined it...in this case, I would say Kawasaki means 1/2 to 1 thousandths. At least that is what I do. Ideally, the feeler gage should just drag a bit if say the gap is .008 in. You could then try a seven as a go and a nine as a no go gage. But after 4O years of setting valves, I got the drag part down pretty well. TE=karl;100404]Lets define a "tad". To me it would be on the loose side of specification, or a few thousands of an inch.[/QUOTE]
Phil, using the "rear cylinder first" trick and the modified front throttle body clamp trick, you will be amazed at just how easy the procedure is.
A tad is slightly less than a smidge and slightly more than a skosh. Is that better?
Mike
Thanks for clearing that up Mike :>)
RedNigel
0
IIRC, "right smart" is a British measurement equivalent to US "dead nuts", I think.
Mike
OP
OP
Clay, a "right smart" is three skoshes bigger than a tad.
OP
OP
Mind boggling? It boggles my mind that my NT has turned more than 344 MILLION revolutions. I know that Honda designed it to do just that, but that's a whole bunch of turns.
Clay, sorry for the delayed reply. The bed and breakfast I spent the weekend at in Arkansas did not have Internet. To be honest it was kind of a nice change. Sounds like Daboo and Coyote Chris did an excellent job of explaining things.