Valve cover gaskets?

[mikesim]

I'm approaching the magic 16K mile interval and plan on adjusting the valves. This is the first time that I've tackled this on the NT. Do you need to replace any gaskets or other parts or just reuse everything> If'n I need any parts, I want to have 'em in advance so I can tackle the job in one day.

Mike

 

[Phil Tarman]

Nothing I've ever owned normally required valve cover gasket replacement. But since I don't do my own valve adjustments on the NT yet, I have no idea why I'm even replying. Just got to blather, I guess.

 

[ARKNT]

Normally you should not need gaskets or seals, should be able to reuse the old unless they tear or something. The adjusters are screw & locknut so no shims are needed either.
Just take your time the first time, it is tight on front cyl and some is hard to see. Make sure gaskets are in correct place and all connectors are in place before all the tupperware goes back on.

Brad

 

[Rmcapozzi]

The only thing that the service manual identifies as needing to be replaced for that service would be the little coupling on the fuel line IF you decide to completely remove the fuel tank as I did. The service manual actually just has you swinging the tank up and resting it on the left handlebar. Removing the tank completely only takes a few extra minutes and provided much better access so that is why I went that route BUT you don't need to remove the tank to do the job. I found that the coupling was in perfect shape and I didn't replace it (had the spare just in case).

I'm approaching the magic 16K mile interval and plan on adjusting the valves. This is the first time that I've tackled this on the NT. Do you need to replace any gaskets or other parts or just reuse everything> If'n I need any parts, I want to have 'em in advance so I can tackle the job in one day.

Mike

 

[junglejim]

I had the same experience as Rmcapozzi. But next time I'll replace the fuel line little plastic coupling/o-ring thingy. It didn't leak the first time I re-coupled it, but I don't want a fuel leak so I'll just replace them next time. Just be careful with the valve cover gasket and you'll be OK.

 

[Rich]

The only thing that the service manual identifies as needing to be replaced for that service would be the little coupling on the fuel line IF you decide to completely remove the fuel tank as I did. The service manual actually just has you swinging the tank up and resting it on the left handlebar. Removing the tank completely only takes a few extra minutes and provided much better access so that is why I went that route BUT you don't need to remove the tank to do the job. I found that the coupling was in perfect shape and I didn't replace it (had the spare just in case).

I've found the tank-on-the-handlebar approach unsatisfactory. Instead, I hooked a bungee net to the front tank mounting holes and to the rear handles. It holds the tank way up and back without having to remove it.

 

[mikesim]

I'd already planned on removing the tank entirely. When I replaced the plugs at 8K, I just set the tank aside but I could see then when it came time do do the valves it would be much easier to have the tank completely out of the way... I like lotsa elbow room when I work.... 'specially the first time. I'll order the fuel line retainer before I start, just in case.

Mike

 

[Rmcapozzi]

I've found the tank-on-the-handlebar approach unsatisfactory. Instead, I hooked a bungee net to the front tank mounting holes and to the rear handles. It holds the tank way up and back without having to remove it.

I used a ratcheting strap similar to your bungee but only to make unplugging the fuel line an easier job.

Interestingly enough, with the Helibars installed, I can't just swing the tank up. I have to remove the rear "hinge" bolt slide the tank back to clear the Helibar riser and then reinsert the "hinge" bolt. Then I strap the tank up to remove the fuel line.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

I'd already planned on removing the tank entirely. When I replaced the plugs at 8K, I just set the tank aside but I could see then when it came time do do the valves it would be much easier to have the tank completely out of the way... I like lotsa elbow room when I work.... 'specially the first time. I'll order the fuel line retainer before I start, just in case.

Mike

Mike,

I make notes of the replacement parts required for various servicing. Here is what I have for the fuel tank removal.

Part Number	Part description	Quantity	Fische Location	Ref #	Notes
17711-S0X-931	RETAINER	1	Fuel Tank	11	Fuel quick disconnect
16719-MEW-920	DAMPER, CONNECTOR	1	Fuel Tank	02	Fuel quick disconnect

 

[dnktng]

I'd already planned on removing the tank entirely

Remember to run the tank to near empty before starting, makes lifting the odd shaped tank easier than doing it full of gas.

 

[mikesim]

Thanks Rob for the P/N's and yes Dan, I'm gonna run the tank down to fumes before I remove it. One other thing I noticed in the FSM is that Honda recommends replacing the "o"-rings on the two inspection port caps on the crankcase cover. I'm gonna order those as well just to have 'em on hand. Curiously, the final drive inspection port has the same sealing arrangement as do the engine inspection ports yet no where can I find that Honda recommends replacement of this "o"-ring. I have inspected the fluid level several times now and have not had a problem reusing the existing "o"-ring.

MIke

 

[Rich]

I used a ratcheting strap similar to your bungee but only to make unplugging the fuel line an easier job.

Interestingly enough, with the Helibars installed, I can't just swing the tank up. I have to remove the rear "hinge" bolt slide the tank back to clear the Helibar riser and then reinsert the "hinge" bolt. Then I strap the tank up to remove the fuel line.

I have a similar problem with the MCL risers plus powerlet. about 1 mm interference.