When should I check my valves?

[Phil Tarman]

I'd probably wait for the 8K check. I still get mine done at my dealer's, but someday will get together with Chuck in Aurora and get instructions on doing it myself. I did valve adjustments on my two Connies for 165,000 miles and always enjoyed it. I'm a bit intimidated by the NT access to the front cylinder, removal of the airbox, etc. The Connie's biggest issue was wiggling the valve cover off.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

Well, your 2010 NT is probably also over due for a coolant and brake fluid change (based on time not mileage).

I would just go ahead and check the adjustment and do the other services. I doubt the bike will grenade if you wait but for me, I would do the adjustment as it is better to be 1400 miles late than 7400 miles late.

I'll be tackling the job this Saturday.

All the talk about the valve adjustments got me thinking about my bike. I bought my bike used with 2000 miles on it. I have no idea if the valves have ever been checked. Looking at the manual it calls for a check at 600 and 8000...

What would you do? Would you wait until 8000 or go ahead and check them now. I want to do the work myself but must admit the latest threads have me scared to try it! I've adjusted valves before but not on a motorcycle.

 

[Chucksklrst]

I'd probably wait for the 8K check. I still get mine done at my dealer's, but someday will get together with Chuck in Aurora and get instructions on doing it myself. I did valve adjustments on my two Connies for 165,000 miles and always enjoyed it. I'm a bit intimidated by the NT access to the front cylinder, removal of the airbox, etc. The Connie's biggest issue was wiggling the valve cover off.

Wait until you get your service manual. READ IT CARFULY. It spells it out how do do the check / adjustment. The hard part is learning the short cuts of getting to them. Wait until you hit your 8k and then check the valves. That's what I did. All were on the tight side of Spec. Make sure you pay attention to how an item came apart so you understand how and in what position it goes back together again. Take your time and it is nice to have another set of hands and eyes assisting you. Read all there is to read on this forum about the procedure and study the pictures that are on this forum. The NT valves are just as easy as doing the old Air Cooled VW's but half as many. Most important understand your limitations, but don't be afraid to try.

 

[rcase13]

Sorry about the link... I seem to be the king of unknowingly buying boot leg stuff... I actually got the link from another thread on this website. They sell manuals for all bikes. Hard to believe they are all bootleg copies.

If it's the same as a VW then I am fine. I've done those albeit many years ago. I might go ahead and do it.

 

[loonytuna]

I had my "first service" done yesterday.

The dealer did not adjust the valves, and I agree with him.

His words - If the valve covers are not leaking, and the valves sound good, don't mess with them. - I know some of you will say, the valves could be to tight .... but this would create running problems. By letting the dealer make this decision I am assured of keeping my warranty intact.

I'd find out where the bike came from and where it was serviced to to see if they were checked. The seller should be able to tell you these things, he or she should also be able to tell you about the first service, which by the way should have been done! If it was not done, I'd do it now with the 2k miles, the oil needs to come out and the shaft oil replaced, we all know the first change is the most important due to parts seating.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

I thought the service manual's maint. schedule has the first change of the final drive oil at 24k. I don't have a manual nearby to check so please let me know if I remember this incorrectly as I thought only the engine oil was due for a change at 600m and then back to the standard intervals (8k).

... If it was not done, I'd do it now with the 2k miles, the oil needs to come out and the shaft oil replaced, we all know the first change is the most important due to parts seating.

 

[rcase13]

Ok thanks for the advice, I will go ahead and change the brake fluid and coolant. I've been holding off on the brake fluid in both my Saab and the bike because my Mityvac broke. I guess I need to go ahead and replace that. I would hate to have to do a brake fluid change manually... I have bad memories of my wife pumping the brake when she wasn't supposed too... Yeah I should go ahead and buy another one...

 

[loonytuna]

I like to have the first service done by an authorized dealer, that way my warranty can't be challenged. I think, even if you had them do it now, it would be better than not at all.

Plus, I'd think Honda could provide you with the service info? Where did you buy it??

I've had lots of new bikes and I find this to be the prudent thing to do.

As far as the final drive goes, it was reasonable when my dealer said to change it, there are mechanical parts "seating" and the initial potential shavings can be dangerous. We all know about the BMW final drive problems, part of that (I think) is the "sealed" nature of the drive. Oil is the first line of defense and the cheapest preventative maintenance we can do .... in my humble opinion.

As you can see by the pictures of the invoice, they did quite a bit and the cost was reasonable.

I removed my name etc from the top of the invoice for security, but I;d be happy to discuss this with you anytime in a PM.

 

[rcase13]

LOL well I no longer need to worry about getting the valves looked at. I was looking through all my paper work and found some original paperwork with the original owners name and address. I took a guess that he would have it serviced at his nearest Honda Powersports. I called them up and gave them his name. It's first service was performed at 1003 miles and it included the initial valve inspection. They couldn't fax me the history due to privacy reasons but at least I have the info I needed. The dealership that serviced it was not the dealership that sold the bike to me. The dealership that sold it to me had no paperwork on the bike. Woo Hoo I'm home free until 8000 miles. All I need to do is change the brake fluid and coolant.

I will go ahead and change the rear end as well. It's easy and it certainly can't hurt. Should I go synthetic on the rear end?

 

[loonytuna]

That's great news!

If the dealer is close enough, maybe you can use them, then they might be a little more willing to give you a copy of the records, without the orig owners name of course.

As far at the final drive oil, I;'d go with whatever Honda specs, probably a Honda product!

Did a search and sure enough!! - http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-08208-0080.html?gclid=CPOQivyMxK4CFUll7AodOieJYw

 

[EX Winger]

It seems that I posted this information somewhere before; BUTTmy .02 cents worth regarding valve adjustment a or near the 600 mile point. I was physiclly in the shop when my 600 mi service was performed, I watched every move donfrom when it went on hte hoist , until it rolled out of he shop door. The INTAkE valves on front cylinder WERE only .03 of clearance. That is .02 tighter than min spec! all other valves were at a tight minimum setting. They were adjusted to dead center and the bike runs SOO much better.

I do realize a lot of people here do not have the relationship with thier servicing shop tht I have. Also all the techs in this shop are active riders, one on a new Connie 14, and one on a VTX 1800. Shop forman rides cortch rocketplus a CB 350 twin, and races MX. That is the reason it took so long for me to get my bike is that I waited for them to get it rather than go elsewhere to buy. They know tha I trus them and thierr work and that it is from a purely courious reason that I like to be there when my bike is being serviced / worked on so if I am broke down along the road I have a better understanding of what is hapening..

 

[Phil Tarman]

looneytuna,

I hate to cast a shadow on your good feelings, but I'm very dubious about what you got for your 600 mile service. $120 sounds like an hour-to-at-the outside-an-hour-and-a-half of labor time. Removing the plastic and checking valves probably takes an experience tech 2 1/2 - 3 hours. I'll bet you got an oil and filter change and basic check-over of fastenings, etc. Unless your shop is the only one I've heard of to give away a valve check.

When I bought my bike, I got an extended warranty and they threw in the first three services. But they billed themselves $400 for each of them.

As their guy has gotten more familiar with the bike, he's doing the job more quickly and they only charged me $365 or so for the last one at 35,000 miles.

 

[loonytuna]

Phil -

In an earlier post I said ... wait let me check my alzheimers notebook .......... okay there it is .... I said .......... (service writer talking)

"His words - If the valve covers are not leaking, and the valves sound good, don't mess with them........"

My bike runs perfectly, and my warranty is intact.

As far as the cost, it was a special deal that came with the bike, the price goes UP on the next one ......... I suspect a lot!

They did the final drive unit even though it was not required, something I also agreed with them on, potential metal shavings and all.

It's not a perfect world, but at least I m documented and my warranty can't be challenged if I have a failure.

Oh and the job took 2 hours, I waited for the bike.

looneytuna,

I hate to cast a shadow on your good feelings, but I'm very dubious about what you got for your 600 mile service. $120 sounds like an hour-to-at-the outside-an-hour-and-a-half of labor time. Removing the plastic and checking valves probably takes an experience tech 2 1/2 - 3 hours. I'll bet you got an oil and filter change and basic check-over of fastenings, etc. Unless your shop is the only one I've heard of to give away a valve check.

When I bought my bike, I got an extended warranty and they threw in the first three services. But they billed themselves $400 for each of them.

As their guy has gotten more familiar with the bike, he's doing the job more quickly and they only charged me $365 or so for the last one at 35,000 miles.

 

[Chucksklrst]

I like to have the first service done by an authorized dealer, that way my warranty can't be challenged. I think, even if you had them do it now, it would be better than not at all.

Plus, I'd think Honda could provide you with the service info? Where did you buy it??

I've had lots of new bikes and I find this to be the prudent thing to do.

As far as the final drive goes, it was reasonable when my dealer said to change it, there are mechanical parts "seating" and the initial potential shavings can be dangerous. We all know about the BMW final drive problems, part of that (I think) is the "sealed" nature of the drive. Oil is the first line of defense and the cheapest preventative maintenance we can do .... in my humble opinion.

As you can see by the pictures of the invoice, they did quite a bit and the cost was reasonable.

I removed my name etc from the top of the invoice for security, but I;d be happy to discuss this with you anytime in a PM.

But there is no mention of a valve check/adjustment on the invoice. Price is reasonable for the what they did. Most of it is just "look see". If the valves were checked your bill would have been at least twice to three times as much. I find 15$ is a bit steep for a oil filter. Next time take in a Walmart ST6607 and have them install it. 3 bucks. I have been using them on my ST1300 for over 100k miles and on my NT now for 10k miles.

 

[loonytuna]

There was no valve check.

In an earlier post I said ...

His words - "If the valve covers are not leaking, and the valves sound good, don't mess with them...." . By letting the dealer make this decision I am assured of keeping my warranty intact.

The engine sounds good, runs great and has no issues.

They did however change the final drive oil, which was not required, but I liked the idea of this since there is always the potential of metal due to the newness, seating, etc.

I agree the 15 bucks is high for a filter, but that was just for their infernal ,,,,,,, sorry internal accounting since the gross price was pre-negotiated.

It's like a dealer fee (we have them in Florida), they can put whatever they want on whatever line they want, I only care about the bottom line!

BTW - thanks for the oil filter number, I actually heard about it on youtube, a video EVERYONE who changes their own oil should watch! - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPzFLk8r9s4

But there is no mention of a valve check/adjustment on the invoice. Price is reasonable for the what they did. Most of it is just "look see". If the valves were checked your bill would have been at least twice to three times as much. I find 15$ is a bit steep for a oil filter. Next time take in a Walmart ST6607 and have them install it. 3 bucks. I have been using them on my ST1300 for over 100k miles and on my NT now for 10k miles.

 

[Madmax]

I ask the shop (Honda) about the valves when I bought mine new. The told me to ride it and not worry about valve adjustment. I'll just keep it under warrenty to be safe. If it breaks let them fix it...

 

[Lorien]

Or you could consider never checking them. I am 20k into the bike and though I do the routine oil and filter I have left the valves alone. Still getting 50+ mpg and on my second set of tires. If it goes away I will let everyone know but $400 plus every 8k ain't gonna happen. Especially since-as I have mentioned before-with the Deauville folks over the pond going 25k and not checking until then.

 

[rcase13]

Lorien raises a good point. If the bike is getting 50mpg then the valves must be very close to perfect. I feel good that my valves were checked at 1000. I average 50mpg and on the highway I average in the high 50's. I hit 58 on a longish trip (90 miles) How bad can they be if your mileage is good. I read about vibration issues but I don't have any that I really notice. Maybe some at speeds above 80 but that is common for this bike. It's not bad either. I can still see out of the mirrors.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

I don't know what Honda puts in the final drive. Might it have extra Molybdenum in it? Don't know for sure. Maybe it wouldn't hurt, maybe it wouldn't help. All we know is what they recommend. No real proof one way or the other. Kinda like using various brands/blends of oil. Stick to the specs outlined in the manual and you'll enjoy the bike for many a mile.

You should definitely do what will make you rest easier though. I haven't heard any horror stories of failing FDs. And even if there were FD problems, I doubt early or more frequent oil changes would help. If the design is defective, there isn't much you can do to improve the life. That isn't really an issue so I'm not interested in trying to fix something that isn't a problem.

It is good you've got the history on the bike. That'll save you some work!!

LOL well I no longer need to worry about getting the valves looked at. I was looking through all my paper work and found some original paperwork with the original owners name and address. I took a guess that he would have it serviced at his nearest Honda Powersports. I called them up and gave them his name. It's first service was performed at 1003 miles and it included the initial valve inspection. They couldn't fax me the history due to privacy reasons but at least I have the info I needed. The dealership that serviced it was not the dealership that sold the bike to me. The dealership that sold it to me had no paperwork on the bike. Woo Hoo I'm home free until 8000 miles. All I need to do is change the brake fluid and coolant.

I will go ahead and change the rear end as well. It's easy and it certainly can't hurt. Should I go synthetic on the rear end?

 

[Phil Tarman]

In an earlier post I said ... wait let me check my alzheimers notebook .......... okay there it is .... I said .......... (service writer talking) "His words - If the valve covers are not leaking, and the valves sound good, don't mess with them........"

Ahh...I guess I need to start keeping an Alzheimer's notebook. I misplaced my earlier reading of that post in which he said that about the valve covers and the sound of the valves.

But...still being a bit of crank, I guess...leaky valve covers and noise are not what that 600-mile check are about. If your valve covers were leaking, you'd have noticed about 575 miles before 600 miles. Tight valves are the quietest valves you can have.

A feeler gauge is a much better way to check valves than looking at valve covers and listening to the engine run. I'd also agree that probably most of the time you could go 20K or more without doing anything to the valves. But most of the time isn't all of the time.

Most of the time BMWs don't have final drive failures. But apparently about 20% of them do.

I'll keep checking mine, but I'll probably start stretching it out to 10,000 mile intervals. After my Connies got 35-40,000 miles on the clock, neither of them needed very much adjusting. Same technology, and Honda probably has better metallurgy.